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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I am newer here to the forums, finally figured out how to post (thanks Mega!). I have an XRC Turbo R that I purchased a few months ago and am still newer to driving it. Thus far I have been a bit less than satisfied with the build quality on this thing (you can see my post under "Disappointed" thread for specifics). Well, I surely wasn't planning on upgrading the radius rods or rear plate for the rods, but here is why I did:
Tire Automotive tire Wheel Tread Vehicle
Tire Tread Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Wheel

As you can see from the photos, the rear driver's side camber is way off! It's hard to tell in the photos, but the camber was so negative that the outside tread of the tire was not even touching the ground! This is on a machine with just under 13 hours on it. She is no trailer queen, and I do ride her hard. After washing and putting back in the garage after the last trip, I couldn't believe what I saw!

Thanks so much to the wealth of information on these forums, I found that this was not uncommon (unfortunately), although most do not seem to be as severe as mine. As there is no adjustment and so much slop in this rear end, I figured the only way to properly fix it was to get adjustable upgraded rods and rear plate. So, after much research and self-debate, I ended up going with the CT Race Worx "Maverick X3 72" High Clearance Worx Series Billet Radius Rod Kit", and their "Maverick X3 Billet Proof Radius Rod Plate With Tow Ring".

First, I must give a shout out to Pilotbell222 and the extremely thorough write up that he did regarding the S3 Powersports radius rods. That thread was very helpful and informative. For me personally, it did come down to the final three vendors of ZRP, S3, and CT. Ultimately I went with the CT for the following reasons:
- The metal they use is 7075-T6 aluminum. The only one to use that material. CT gives a nice breakdown of the strength differences between 6061 and 7075 on their website for their rods.
- They are right/left hand thread with joints on both ends for the upper and middle rod. Even though you should not really need to adjust these once they are set correctly, it really is super convenient to have this feature.
- The lower rod has good ground clearance.
- The price upgrade for black was not severe.

I have to admit, I almost went with S3, but on their website, they only offer the rods in bare aluminum. I wanted black to look like the stock ones. I called S3 and asked how much it would be to get all 3 in black. The answer was "$125 - PER SET!!!" That's right, an additional $375 to get them in black! That is quite the cost increase. I also was not keen on the single sided joint on the top two rods. I really did love the uniform look of them though!

For the ZRP, I feel that they have the best ground clearance of the three, and they have an interesting take on them that the top rod is adjustable on the vehicle, the middle is fixed on one end, and the bottom is fixed on both. As you can see on their website, they gain extra ground clearance by also putting a bend in the middle rod, so that is why it must be fixed on one end. I really liked their set up as well, but CT won me over.

Ok, so here are some pics of the process:
Bicycle part Auto part Vehicle Bicycle drivetrain part Tire
This photo really shows how much play is at the rear plate of this. Even with the stock tow hook.

Oh, I almost forgot, I also installed the Assault Industries Radius Rod Double Shear Bracket Kit. I was hesitant at first because they state that they can only guarantee that they will fit the stock or Assault radius rods. But I figured aftermarket rods will not really change the size where these mount, so I gave it a shot. They installed great. I know, I know, the double shear rear knuckle is the way to go, but $100 vs $1600 is a big difference. Maybe when I win the lotto I will upgrade entire knuckle, lol!
Auto part

Here is a quick photo to show the difference in size between the stock and CT rear plate (I am holding the plate the wrong direction to match the CT, but you get the idea):
Automotive exterior Auto part Bumper Automotive window part Glass

Here is a photo showing the stock vs. CT rod thickness:
Material property Bicycle part Material property Bicycle fork Tire Carbon Automotive exterior Rim Metal Pipe
As you can see, there really isn't much difference in size. The stock are actually pretty beefy!

Here is a shot of the lower rod difference:
Bicycle part Auto part Bicycle fork

Ok, now a shot with the CT and Assault installed on the driver's side:
Motor vehicle Tire Automotive tire Vehicle Suspension

And now the finished product (note that it is sitting extra high as I just lowered it from the jack, so it has not settled; but I do have my suspension set up pretty tall):
Motor vehicle Vehicle Auto part Car Automotive tire

Oh, yes, I did make sure to adjust the new rods to the stock length before installing them. I think that this next photo really speaks volumes as it shows that with the same length rod as stock, but everything where it now should be due to the tight tolerances, the tire is now sitting with almost perfect camber!
Tire Automotive tire Wheel Vehicle Auto part

I will update this as soon as I am able to do the alignment and then take it out for a spin! It may be a while though as it is HOT in So CA right now! I am melting at my house, let alone going out to the desert! So far, so good, I am happy. Now let's see if they can really take some abuse!

I hope that this helps anyone out there who is still looking at getting some radius rods. The fit and finish on the CT Race Worx is great! With labor day just around the corner, they will probably go on sale as well..... Thanks everyone! Hopefully I did this post correctly.
 

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Hello all,

I am newer here to the forums, finally figured out how to post (thanks Mega!). I have an XRC Turbo R that I purchased a few months ago and am still newer to driving it. Thus far I have been a bit less than satisfied with the build quality on this thing (you can see my post under "Disappointed" thread for specifics). Well, I surely wasn't planning on upgrading the radius rods or rear plate for the rods, but here is why I did:
View attachment 219970
View attachment 219972

As you can see from the photos, the rear driver's side camber is way off! It's hard to tell in the photos, but the camber was so negative that the outside tread of the tire was not even touching the ground! This is on a machine with just under 13 hours on it. She is no trailer queen, and I do ride her hard. After washing and putting back in the garage after the last trip, I couldn't believe what I saw!

Thanks so much to the wealth of information on these forums, I found that this was not uncommon (unfortunately), although most do not seem to be as severe as mine. As there is no adjustment and so much slop in this rear end, I figured the only way to properly fix it was to get adjustable upgraded rods and rear plate. So, after much research and self-debate, I ended up going with the CT Race Worx "Maverick X3 72" High Clearance Worx Series Billet Radius Rod Kit", and their "Maverick X3 Billet Proof Radius Rod Plate With Tow Ring".

First, I must give a shout out to Pilotbell222 and the extremely thorough write up that he did regarding the S3 Powersports radius rods. That thread was very helpful and informative. For me personally, it did come down to the final three vendors of ZRP, S3, and CT. Ultimately I went with the CT for the following reasons:
- The metal they use is 7075-T6 aluminum. The only one to use that material. CT gives a nice breakdown of the strength differences between 6061 and 7075 on their website for their rods.
- They are right/left hand thread with joints on both ends for the upper and middle rod. Even though you should not really need to adjust these once they are set correctly, it really is super convenient to have this feature.
- The lower rod has good ground clearance.
- The price upgrade for black was not severe.

I have to admit, I almost went with S3, but on their website, they only offer the rods in bare aluminum. I wanted black to look like the stock ones. I called S3 and asked how much it would be to get all 3 in black. The answer was "$125 - PER SET!!!" That's right, an additional $375 to get them in black! That is quite the cost increase. I also was not keen on the single sided joint on the top two rods. I really did love the uniform look of them though!

For the ZRP, I feel that they have the best ground clearance of the three, and they have an interesting take on them that the top rod is adjustable on the vehicle, the middle is fixed on one end, and the bottom is fixed on both. As you can see on their website, they gain extra ground clearance by also putting a bend in the middle rod, so that is why it must be fixed on one end. I really liked their set up as well, but CT won me over.

Ok, so here are some pics of the process:
View attachment 219976
This photo really shows how much play is at the rear plate of this. Even with the stock tow hook.

Oh, I almost forgot, I also installed the Assault Industries Radius Rod Double Shear Bracket Kit. I was hesitant at first because they state that they can only guarantee that they will fit the stock or Assault radius rods. But I figured aftermarket rods will not really change the size where these mount, so I gave it a shot. They installed great. I know, I know, the double shear rear knuckle is the way to go, but $100 vs $1600 is a big difference. Maybe when I win the lotto I will upgrade entire knuckle, lol!
View attachment 219978

Here is a quick photo to show the difference in size between the stock and CT rear plate (I am holding the plate the wrong direction to match the CT, but you get the idea):
View attachment 219980

Here is a photo showing the stock vs. CT rod thickness:
View attachment 219982 View attachment 219984 View attachment 219990
As you can see, there really isn't much difference in size. The stock are actually pretty beefy!

Here is a shot of the lower rod difference:
View attachment 219986

Ok, now a shot with the CT and Assault installed on the driver's side:
View attachment 219992

And now the finished product (note that it is sitting extra high as I just lowered it from the jack, so it has not settled; but I do have my suspension set up pretty tall):
View attachment 219994

Oh, yes, I did make sure to adjust the new rods to the stock length before installing them. I think that this next photo really speaks volumes as it shows that with the same length rod as stock, but everything where it now should be due to the tight tolerances, the tire is now sitting with almost perfect camber!
View attachment 219996

I will update this as soon as I am able to do the alignment and then take it out for a spin! It may be a while though as it is HOT in So CA right now! I am melting at my house, let alone going out to the desert! So far, so good, I am happy. Now let's see if they can really take some abuse!

I hope that this helps anyone out there who is still looking at getting some radius rods. The fit and finish on the CT Race Worx is great! With labor day just around the corner, they will probably go on sale as well..... Thanks everyone! Hopefully I did this post correctly.

Not sure where the information got crossed up buddy but its about $15-$20 per rod powdered from S3. We do not control that cost. That is 100% cost of what our powder coater charges to powder them. We tried anodizing but no one locally does it and the business we tried using out of Dallas was very expensive. I'm sorry that the information got crossed up for you and that we were not able to take care of you! if you need anything in the future, please save my information or email me directly! [email protected]
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you Definitiv1! I am really happy with the install. Hopefully they perform as well as they look!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Not sure where the information got crossed up buddy but its about $15-$20 per rod powdered from S3. We do not control that cost. That is 100% cost of what our powder coater charges to powder them. We tried anodizing but no one locally does it and the business we tried using out of Dallas was very expensive. I'm sorry that the information got crossed up for you and that we were not able to take care of you! if you need anything in the future, please save my information or email me directly! [email protected]
Hi Logan, thank you for reaching out. That is great to know! When I called, a woman answered and when I explained that I wanted to get them in black, but the only option on the website was for bare aluminum, she put me on hold and said that she would have to ask one of the guys. When she came back on, that was the price that I was told. I even asked again to make sure that I understood correctly, and she confirmed it was $125 per set (since you can order top, middle, or bottom on the website). Thank you so much for clearing that up. I will certainly hit you up if I need anything from S3 (and I know I will)!!
 

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Hi Logan, thank you for reaching out. That is great to know! When I called, a woman answered and when I explained that I wanted to get them in black, but the only option on the website was for bare aluminum, she put me on hold and said that she would have to ask one of the guys. When she came back on, that was the price that I was told. I even asked again to make sure that I understood correctly, and she confirmed it was $125 per set (since you can order top, middle, or bottom on the website). Thank you so much for clearing that up. I will certainly hit you up if I need anything from S3 (and I know I will)!!
No problem at all buddy! Glad I had the opportunity to clear that up. For a full set (6 rods) $125 is probably close depending on the color. Usually we can get our powder guys to do it for a little less in black since its such a common color but thats about what they charge us to do a full set. If theres anything at all that we can do for you, dont hesitate to shoot me an email or a PM on here!

Great looking set up you have though. CT makes really nice parts!
 

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Looks great AJ! Sometime in my future.


For general info, the huge, photo intense, quotes are killing me. Please keep what you want to quote and delete the rest. I am rural and my internet sucks, but I am pretty sure most folks find it a bit annoying to scroll through triplicates or more of 10 photo posts. Rant over.

BTW, I don't mind waiting for the originals to load. :big smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Looks great AJ! Sometime in my future.


For general info, the huge, photo intense, quotes are killing me. Please keep what you want to quote and delete the rest. I am rural and my internet sucks, but I am pretty sure most folks find it a bit annoying to scroll through triplicates or more of 10 photo posts. Rant over.

BTW, I don't mind waiting for the originals to load. :big smile:
Thanks Tom! Well, I still have a lot to learn about how to properly use the forum here and how to post. Sorry about that! Didn't mean to flood the page with triplicates! Thank you for your patience, and I'm glad you liked them none the less. :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
*UPDATE*
Hey everyone, I was able to take her out this past Sunday to try out the new CT set. I unfortunately ran into trouble keeping the jamb nuts in place! I was driving for a while, then it started to handle strange. Got back to camp, saw that the toe and camber on both wheels was way positive! Both jamb nuts on both ends came loose on both top and middle rods! I did a quick field alignment and back out for another run. Came back to find it happened again! I cranked these bad boys down as hard as I could! I was a bit disappointed in this and hope that there is an easy fix.

Anybody have an idea on how to keep the jamb nuts in place? I was thinking either a lock washer between the rod and nut, or a second nut. The only problem for a second nut is that there is not a ton of thread on the end of the rod, so I don't know if I could fit another nut on there. Any feedback is appreciated! Thanks!
 

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CT Race Worx 72" High Clearance Billet Radius Rod Kit - Installed!

I haven’t had any problems with mine , give CT a call they’ll figure it out .


Maybe the nuts aren’t the right size . That’s all I can think of.
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CT Race Worx 72" High Clearance Billet Radius Rod Kit - Installed!

I’m looking at your install photos. Is it just me or does your left inner middle rod jam nut look thicker then the others?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Use some Loctite and once you have the camber where you want it,crank those nuts down as tight as you can get them.
I've got the ZRP rods and they haven't come loose after about 300mi.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I’m looking at your install photos. Is it just me or does your left inner middle rod jam nut look thicker then the others?
Wow, you are right, it does look like that in the photo. I will have to check this weekend. I am out of town right now. I will update you once I have a look! Nice catch!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just spoke to CT, they said that these can be hard to get tight enough to stay in place. They suggested what TwiZted did, get them in place, put on some blue Loctite, and crank down. I will try this and update you all after the next ride. Probably won't be for another month or so though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I’m looking at your install photos. Is it just me or does your left inner middle rod jam nut look thicker then the others?


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Hey MCI, sorry for the late reply. So I checked the bolts and here are photos: The first is the top, the next photo it the middle.

Vehicle Wheel Cylinder
Auto part Tire Wheel Automotive wheel system Automotive tire

Looks to me like the middle bolt is about 1mm thicker than the top bolt! Strange! You can also see that the middle bolt has 'notches' at the corners, where the top bolt does not. I guess they just grabbed whatever bolts were lying around the shop that fit and threw them on.
 

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CT Race Worx 72" High Clearance Billet Radius Rod Kit - Installed!

How’s the loctite working out ?

Call CT and ask about the nuts , might be a different thread pitch
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
How’s the loctite working out ?

Call CT and ask about nuts , might be a different thread pitch
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Called and asked them about it, they said that they should all be the same. All joints are using same hems, so not sure what is up with that.

I have not been able to get back out since pinching down the bolts with locktite. I will update after next trip though!

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Hey MCI, sorry for the late reply. So I checked the bolts and here are photos: The first is the top, the next photo it the middle.

View attachment 222496
View attachment 222498

Looks to me like the middle bolt is about 1mm thicker than the top bolt! Strange! You can also see that the middle bolt has 'notches' at the corners, where the top bolt does not. I guess they just grabbed whatever bolts were lying around the shop that fit and threw them on.
FYI - Typically the notches in the nuts are reference for left handed threads.
 
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