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Discussion Starter #1
So I was out this last weekend alone which gave me time to really get to know a few of the things with this car and question them. I swapped the factory belt to a Timken Ultimax and then proceeded to do the s3 belt break in. Which kinda sucks in my neighborhood where the 'eep it under 4k for about 10 minutes in low' ment cars were passing me and wondering "what's this idiot doing now". Any way I digress.

#1 During this belt break in I was in 2WD low and could feel the car surging while driving on pavement. Not so much a surge but almost bogging down like a surge pattern. About 1 second of harder than before driving, then about 5 seconds of fine, then 1 second harder than normal. Now this was around 3800 rpm in low. In high I could just feel it do it like a stutter on take off from a stop up a hill and just for a second. Could this be the primary weights? or maybe wear on the smallest part of the primary? (I can't pull the primary at this point as I don't have tools for it). I did feel inside the sheeves when I had the belt off and there is a bit of a groove in the smallest part. This was after i blew out the clutches and a pound of silt came out Or, is this normal for that rpm.

#2 I installed the EMP belt housing quick release kit. The Pins are no were near the housing, so if I pull on the housing once the pins are installed I can get the housing loose. I can't see inside it but theres almost no way it's water tight. I've tried screwing the pins in farther but it's really really hard. I can get a pic in a bit as I need to wash it again.

#3 How the heck does anyone go faster than 65 on hard pack with BH2.0's and not fear for their life? I got a chance to rip down the road that goes past the ohv area out by Montana Mtn and even with the road to myself I just couldn't push past 65 without the car walking to the other side of the road and feeling very loose when I tried to correct. Is this a toe issue? I havn't adjusted anything but am putting on the CT BSD rods this week. Tires are at 13psi. I can understand the BH's not holding well due to the tread pattern but I hear from people that go to 32's that they hold better than the 32's they moved up to. Mike has told me on past rides to "just feel it out and get used to it" I feel I'm ice skating lol and with a factory cage I'd rather not ditch it at that speed
 

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Put more air in . I think manual says 19psi or something crazy like that. You need to take a scotch brite pad to your clutches , I bet that fixes your problems. Clutch cover idk I’m just stock


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Big Horns balloon up as you get up to 65+. Especially if you are running lower air pressure. They are not designed for high speed on dirt. In the sand they are fine. I am not a fan of Big Horns and would recommend you replace them. Lots of good tire choice out there.

As to the belt break in just go for a ride like you normally do. If you are overly concerned take it easy for about 10 minutes varying throttle to let the belt ride up and down the clutch. A causal trail or desert ride is perfect for breaking in a belt,if you feel the need to do so. I personally just drive and don't worry about breaking in a belt.

The bump steer kit will help, but you also need to adjust your alignment on the front. Most come toed out from the factory. I was told to set the toe in 1/8" - 1/4". The combo of the bumpsteer kit and fixing the alignment takes the darting left and right the X3 will do.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I babied the belt for 10 min then gentle riding out on the main road. I figure it got a few heat cycles before I gave it the full monty. Nice thing is I can kind of get access to the belt again 'quickly' as the pin kit does allow that. Going to have to washer the thing to make it tight then.

I figured high speed hard pack would be sketchy but if the BH's are supposedly a little less sketchy than KM3's I'll stop trying to push it.

I'll check the wear on the belt when I pull the cover and scotchbite the clutches.
 

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I babied the belt for 10 min then gentle riding out on the main road. I figure it got a few heat cycles before I gave it the full monty. Nice thing is I can kind of get access to the belt again 'quickly' as the pin kit does allow that. Going to have to washer the thing to make it tight then.

I figured high speed hard pack would be sketchy but if the BH's are supposedly a little less sketchy than KM3's I'll stop trying to push it.

I'll check the wear on the belt when I pull the cover and scotchbite the clutches.
KM3s should not be sketchy at high speed. My Ultracross tires are solid at 75+mph


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Hey Eric, wish I could of rode with ya the other day. I ran my big horns at 18 psi front and 20 in the rear which is harder than most run. The big horns are not good on hard pack. Like Mega said on a dirt road especially like the one you were on at 65 it can feel like ice . I'm really happy with the tusk terrabites they are a lot better on hard pack and the price is good ! I'm also running a little lower air now with the 32s . They weighed in at 56 lbs on stock wheels. A bit heavier than the big horns and I can feel it. Both in the steering and acceleration.
 

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Good because the KM3 is on my radar, or Tensors, thanks.
KM3 is used by a lot of the desert racers. Some of those race UTVs are hitting over 100mph on the dry lake beds and parts of the race course.

Tensor DS is also a desert race tire.
 

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I also have 32” terrabites. I’ve got about 2200 miles on them so far so good. No punctures ,they hold up good at high speed , and I haven’t experienced any looseness . Like extreme said the price is good. Have fun shopping...
 

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Stack rubber washers in behind the pins until you get the desired clamping. Might do a thin metal washer against the pin to mitigate wear

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Discussion Starter #12
I was going to run to ACE and get some nylon washers and epoxy them on. then try to figure out how to sand them down or snug up the pins to get it tight. The cover doesn't seem to move once in place but vibration could be a longer term issue. I'm hoping to not drop any of the washers if I have to pull the cover in the field.
 

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I was going to run to ACE and get some nylon washers and epoxy them on. then try to figure out how to sand them down or snug up the pins to get it tight. The cover doesn't seem to move once in place but vibration could be a longer term issue. I'm hoping to not drop any of the washers if I have to pull the cover in the field.
sounds difficult, how about just running 4 screws and use a ratchet screwdriver or cordless driver?
 

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A few things I've done on mine, if you're not hitting any water crossings where you ride, you really only need the clutch cover to direct airflow, in the dunes I run only about 5 or 6 bolts, it makes getting the cover off take only a couple casual minutes. Second thing I did was to re tap the holes to 1/4-20, so I can run regular 1/4-20 stainless bolts and washers. Using a regular 7/16 socket to get the cover off. You could do the same with M6 socket head screws if you cared either way.

You could even put 1/4-20 studs in and use wing nuts, but I'd worry they'd disappear and rattle off on a ride...
 

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Is it really that hard to take the cover off? I mean I can have mine off in about 2 minutes with fuel 3/8 ratchet . Maybe even less . Am I missing something?


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Discussion Starter #16
I thought these would make it cake to get to, it's made it worse. I had the cover off previously in a couple minutes. I thought this would be pop on pop off. And so I've lived and learned and spent $50 on some studs and things I'll probably remove now.

I just went to pull the cover and it was kinda a PITA to get the bottom off. The studs have to line up really nicely for it to not suck to get on or off. The hope was that if I needed to change a belt in the field I wouldn't lose the bolts. My drill doesn't fit nicely for the bottom bolts so I have to use a ratchet for thos, which sucks, but I'll find a way to resolve that rather than keep futzing with these.

I looked the belt over and don't feel or see any flat spots, it's equally worn. The sheeves are glass smooth. Except the primary back where the belt sits at idle, its got a touch of a lip.
 

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My earlier post about using different bolts, Dizzle mentioned using a Milwaukee electric ratchet, that's definitely a time saver, but I just use a regular ratchet, I don't want to have another thing to charge. Got enough batteries to keep track of already. It's easy either way, with either ratchet.
Point was that those stupid torx bolts can get punted, and put easier and more available bolts in to do the same thing.

Edit: I think Dizzle meant he used an electric ratchet... (doesn't Milwaukee brand they're stuff with the "Fuel" logo?)
 

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I use the Milwaukee M12 Fuel 1/4” ratchet rather than the 3/8” for this task. The smaller profile lets me get in there easily and makes getting the cover off a snap. The threads are a special design and I can’t remember exactly what they are now but a Google search will tell you. I haven’t had the time in the last few weeks since I’m still working despite the Corona craziness but I am going to change out the bolts from Torx to standard head for ease of removal on the trail. They are available. When I get a part number I will post in case anyone else is interested in doing the same.
 

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Or you guys could just learn to drive so you don't break belts!!! Lol

Kidding of course. I went through my first belt at 550 miles, but I didn't break it in from the factory, first miles were at the dunes. And I didn't know about the low gear when going slow thing. My second belt I broke in and only use low when going slow. Have 700 miles on that belt, mostly hard dune miles. That being said, I'm going to be more proactive at changing the belt in my shop rather than waiting for it to break.
 
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