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Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting set to do my 10 hr service so I looked a little more closely at my owners manual to get the fluid specifications down so I could go buy the oil and do it myself. The fluid capacities shocked me.
First off engine oil at 2.1 qt isn't to bad since the gear box is separate but both front and rear as well as gear box only hold about 1/2 qt of fluid. That's not much. Especially the rear drive capacity at 13.5 oz is less than 1/2 quart and not even as much capacity as the front drive at 17 oz. I would have thought the rear would have a greater capacity than the front since it's always working. Does the Visco lock in the front generate more heat and require more oil or something. Anyhow, the capacities all seem extremely minimal considering how hard some of us run these machines.
Second, I may use the recommended XPS oils for the first 10 hour change just to make the factory happy but the next engine oil change I will likely switch to something else. I was hoping my Rotella T6 synthetic would meet the engine requirements but the way I'm reading the label it doesn't look like it does so I'll have to find something else down the road.
I'm almost hesitant to start an 'oil' thread since those usually turn into a 'cluster F' type of discussion but I am wondering what oils others are using.
Also, I'm still not certain whether or not I will dive into a valve adjustment for this 10 hour service or not. It seems a little early for that but I guess we'll see how things are going.
Side note:
Cant wait to go to University of Phoenix Stadium tomorrow to watch the new Robbie Gordon stadium truck races. First race of a new series, could be interesting.
 

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Pepboys has a Mobile 1 motorcycle oil that was perfect for the motor. I also bought Mobile 1 for the other fluids as well. All synthetic.
 

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I have 25 hrs and I can just now start to hear the valves. I also did my own 10hr service. I use the oem oil in the motor as well and cheap stuff in the diffs just because I ride deep water all the time so they get changed often.
 

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I'm a little torn at what interval the valves should be done at. My gut feeling is to check them at 10hrs, even though my dealer says that's too soon. On my Outlander 1000, at 12hrs two or three of the valves were extremely tight. I'm sure they would have loosened up a little by 40 hrs (hrs my dealer suggested), but do you risk damaging something before that point? I think I'll probably follow Can-Am's recommendation here.

Has anyone checked their own yet? I haven't had mine apart yet, but from what I've seen it doesn't look to be that difficult to remove the valve covers. Once they're off, it's a relatively easy job.

Oh, and more than likely I'll be using Amsoil.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'll have to look into that Mobile 1 synthetic. I quit using their oils when they dropped the original 'Red Cap' 15-50 from the line up. What has peoples oil looked like when it's dumped at 10 hrs. Like I said, I think the front and rear diffs use an awful small capacity.
 

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I just did all mine with the OE BRP XPS stuff.. the engine oil color was perfect, but the magnet on the plug was definitely catching some fine break in material. The dif oil was actually more dirty looking for such low hours than I though it should be. Does this thing have a LSD type rear or is it more like a spool?

Myron
 

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No the T6 doesnt meet their specs. The API service specs are diffrent(T6 is API service CJ-4, Cl-4 PLUS, Cl-4, CH-4, CG-4/SM) than what BRP calls for( API service SM, SL, or SJ). I know because I changed my oil last week for the first time and was going to use the T6 but didnt because of that. I think you'll be fine with it but I used the BRP summer blend and btw I dont believe its a full synthetic.
 

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No the T6 doesnt meet their specs. The API service specs are diffrent(T6 is API service CJ-4, Cl-4 PLUS, Cl-4, CH-4, CG-4/SM) than what BRP calls for( API service SM, SL, or SJ). I know because I changed my oil last week for the first time and was going to use the T6 but didnt because of that. I think you'll be fine with it but I used the BRP summer blend and btw I dont believe its a full synthetic.
Ummm... Yes it does... It even Meets JASO ratings for Wet Clutch systems in Motorcycles... and API: SM, SL, SJ, SH

Here's the Proof
http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_Local_TDS_United_States_Shell_Rotella_T6_5W-40_(CJ-4)_(en-US)_TDS_v1.pdf
 

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Well thats good to know, however its not what it says on the jug. I got the pic of it on my phone.
Edit: I just looked closer at the pic I have and it does say SM in tiny letters in the little circle thing so your correct.
I will be using this from now on.
 

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I paid like 50 bucks for a gallon of the BRP stuff. Crazy.
 
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I used Mobil 1 for the first oil change on my Outlander and my only other consideration was Rotella T6. At Wal-mart it just boiled down to the price difference. The Mobil 1 was only $25 for a gallon. Rotella or Mobil 1 are both extremely good oils. I ran Rotella in my YFZ and never had clutch issues with it. I did change the tranny oil in my Outlander and I used Royal Purple in it and will do the same with my Maverick. I was shocked how dirty the gear oil was in my Outlander so I'm sure the Maverick will be too.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well thats good to know, however its not what it says on the jug. I got the pic of it on my phone.
Edit: I just looked closer at the pic I have and it does say SM in tiny letters in the little circle thing so your correct.
I will be using this from now on.
Wait, are we sure on this now? I'd love to be able to use the T6 to keep things a little simpler since that's what I use in my sons Raptor 660 and I had been using it in my Teryx (For Sale) also. I've got to check the jug again but it can't be more than 3 months old. I always buy it in 1 gallon size.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I don't understand why they don't list the actual specs on the container because that clearly does not match what is on the spec sheet in the post above.
The first picture is my T6 jug just so we all know we're talking about the same oil. Second picture is the oil spec qualifications taken off the back of the jug.
To me this last picture still doesn't say it meets BRP specs even though in the circle at the right it lists API SERVICE CJ-4/SM. I don't think the '/' qualifies because it should say 'CJ-4, SM' with a ',' that would show it's meeting 2 different specific qualifications and not 1 combination of specs.
I'm not an expert on this by any means but it seems like the spec sheet shown on the .pdf should match what's on the jug itself.

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DSCN1272.JPG
 

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I put up the specs....If what Shell says isn't good enough I would go buy some 14 a quart BRP.....:) By the way it only has to meet one of those requirements and SM is the Highest so therefore thats whats listed on the lablel.....
 
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