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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys.

I did a bikeman stage 2 clutch kit on my 17’ X3 XRS Turbo R.

I did the recommended setting 1 weight on the heel no weights on the tow.

Running 32” tires. Stock 154 HP

The bottom end is good 0-60 is great but I feel like the after 60mph it’s lazy.

Based on what I’ve read if I add tow weight the top end will engage more however I don’t want to add to much weight and start going through belts due to the additional tension.

I guess my question is do most guys get there top end just from tuning and removing the limiter.

I’m probably going to try and additional tow weight just to see if my top end improves as it should.

Any input is appreciated or just tell me this is posted all over the Mav forum. Lol


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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I’ll have to test it tonight.

I thought the engagement was a little low. 2050rpm but that would mean there’s to much weight on the heel?

The target RPM is 8100 according to the sheet. Is that at WOT at Any speed or are most based on 50mph


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You really should be doing wot runs on flat and up a hill and document rpm every 10mph and adjust from there. Gotta have a baseline to compare when you change stuff
 

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That doesn't seem right. You should have higher rpms at the lower speeds. From a roll at about 10 mph floor it and watch the rpms. It should spike up close to 8000 rpms and then immediately drop back down to mid to upper 7000s. At about 60 mph it should be about 7800 to 7900 and then go higher as speed increases. If the rpms are low remove weight. If rpms are high add weight. It helps if you have a boost gauge, too. Low boost can mean low weight. The engine needs to be under load in order for the turbo to build boost to develop peak power. If you have too little weight on the clutch arms the clutch will not shift and load the engine. This will give it a weak feeling. If you have too much weight on the arms the rpms will be low but it should still pull hard because the engine is loaded. It will pull best when the weight is correct. Good luck.
 

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This was a DIFFERENT setup that OEM so the rpms that you should be targeting should be between 7900-8100. This setup target 9000-9200 because of the aftermarket cams. It also has more turbo lag and takes longer to build boost/rpm. It also has a very high engagement of about 4200-4300 rpm.

Here is an example of what I would like to see in the RPM shape. Basically you want RPMs to quickly come up to target RPM and hold there until full shift out where RPM will then rise with MPH.

You can see in these this example it come up to peak 91XX rpm then holds that RPM (drops slightly) as it shifts out. It hits full shift out at about 74 mph (you should be more like 50-60 for full shift out) and from there rpms rise with mph.

RPM to Full Throttle
270600


RPM at Shift Full Shift Out
270601


RPM at Top Speed
270602
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Did you change secondary spring? Sounds like you have a secondary with no spring preload on the helix.
I did the following

New helix
New secondary spring
New primary spring
Secondary Rollers
Primary o rings and sliders
Service.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I tried to get numbers again and exploded my belt…

So I will get a new belt and retest. I would be loosing RPM because of a slipping belt? Would I


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Any recommendations on belts. Stick with the Can Am or get an Evo?

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2020 X3 X RS RR
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Any recommendations on belts. Stick with the Can Am or get an Evo?

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I run Evo but OEM is as good from what people say. I put new belt on before they blow. Every 800-1000 miles so far and have never blown one. Evo 3R tune and a clutch tune.
 

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X3 Max RS
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Clutch slip also adds a lot of belt heat. Probably the reason you explodes the belt…

My fav belts are the Worlds Best Belt. Sold under EVO name, Trinity Racing, some others…but they are all GBoost belts. You can verify that but reading what’s printed on the side.

Currently belts are on sale.

https://blackmarketutv.com/search?type=product&q=drive belts*
 

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