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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all! If you have any tips, etc on what all needs to be done on stock clutching please feel free to leave some feedback.
The Dealer I picked it up from said all recall work was done, Then when loading on my trailer they said they just took it out of the crate an hour or so before I got there?
I've always done all my own service work anyways so let start with the clutch. I read were it was a pain to take just the clutch over off but I found it very easy and it only
took about 15/20 min to get to the clutch.

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That is not the updated clutch stud. Most of the people that talk about how hard it is to get to the clutch are people that dont even own one.
 
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Chris you need to take it back up there and let them know that you need the set screw recall done to your primary. You've got the slippery washers on there now which was the original bandaid fix. There has been another recall put out since then, which includes a set screw that goes into your crank and the primary is held on by a nut.

Where did you buy it from?


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Can you do up a how too? Perhaps I need change my belt out on the trail. What would I need to do to change belt?
It's super easy, once you get all of you covers off, you insert the spreader that came with your tool kit in the threaded hole in your secondary. This allows you to spread the secondary without taking the secondary bolt out. Slide the old belt off the secondary first, then the primary. Put the new belt on with the arrow facing forward and install around the primary first, the slip it into the secondary. Remove your spreader, install your covers and you're good to go!


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Discussion Starter #7
Chris you need to take it back up there and let them know that you need the set screw recall done to your primary. You've got the slippery washers on there now which was the original bandaid fix. There has been another recall put out since then, which includes a set screw that goes into your crank and the primary is held on by a nut.

Where did you buy it from?

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I bought it at Ridersville Cycle in WV. Its a little to far for me for service. I will check with a Dealer closer to me I guess. Unless this is something someone on the forum has parts for and I can just fix myself?
 

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Bolts to take the cover off are 8mm so you need maybe a ratchet wrench, 1/4" ratchet with small extension and universal with 8mm socket, your clutch spreader tool, and a pair of body clip pliers to take off the plastic cover pins. Im not using the recall stud setup, Ive got a socket head bolt I got from Benzo. So far so good.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Can you do up a how too? Perhaps I need change my belt out on the trail. What would I need to do to change belt?

Basically remove the drivers seat and plastic under the seat, one bolt for the seat belt strap going into the plastic and your there!
(With a tiny screw driver push pins pop out easy.)
The cover consists or 12or13/ 8mm. A little socket driver and it was easy.
If you needed to change on the trail have something to lay on because you will have to get on the ground to get the bottom side.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
What are the fixes that have been used for the clutch?? Socket head bolt from Benzo?
Set screw into your crank and primary is held on by a nut from the Dealer as a recall?

I'm not ready for aftermarket clutching yet whats a good way for someone to repair it besides taking it to the dealer?
 

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Your best bet would be to have the dealer do it. That way if you have problems in the future, your not held liable for it. Can am and the dealers are not going to jump through hoops for you of they know that you have done some work on your own machine.

Take it to the dealer so they can get it taken care of under the recall, then your vin number will have a record of the work being done.


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If you want to do it yourself,and want the best setup, get the recall stud from a dealer, and a Allen socket bolt for the secondary from ///AIRDAM or anyone with the proper size grade 12.9. Put the secondary bolt in with lock tight and 45 lbs torque (I prefer a little more torque like 60 lbs). Then install the primary stud with no Loctite to 90 lbs. Put a paint pen mark on a fin on the inner half of the primary, on the outer half of it, and on the washer and stud nut. Put in 4 high and do three 0-50 mph runs. Check the paint marks and see if they still line up? If not, torque to 100 lbs, remove previous paint marks and repeat. If after that run it's still slipping so the paint marks don't line up, try 110 lbs. Once the paint marks stay reasonably aligned, add Locktite to the Allen that goes in the primary bolt.
 

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