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Discussion Starter #1
I am baffled by this design flaw (short cut)-(value engineered) carrier bearing Luckily the crew at Sandcraft fixed this for Canam. 30K for a machine and not only did the carrier bearing fail on our first ride but we discovered that the skid plate is riveted in place. Just another VALUE ENGINEERED failure on Canam.
Other than that, my wife loves her machine

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My OEM carrier bearing has 2389 miles on it and so far, no issues. You likely had something defective with it. 1 ride and it’s blown?
I did have to tighten it down in the first 200 miles as it was loose and knocking about but after that, good to go.


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Discussion Starter #3
My OEM carrier bearing has 2389 miles on it and so far, no issues. You likely had something defective with it. 1 ride and it’s blown?
I did have to tighten it down in the first 200 miles as it was loose and knocking about but after that, good to go.


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The bolt from the u joint was whacking the cross member. The sound of the U joint whacking the cross member was very unsettling. No catasdtrophic failure of the carrier bearing per say but it definitely was not keeping the front drive shaft in place and allowing the U joint to smack the frame.
 

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The bolt from the u joint was whacking the cross member. The sound of the U joint whacking the cross member was very unsettling. No catasdtrophic failure of the carrier bearing per say but it definitely was not keeping the front drive shaft in place and allowing the U joint to smack the frame.
I see that in your picture now, that you mentioned it.


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Just swapped the OEM carrier bearing for a Sandcraft one - it was DUE.

Not sure I like the Sandcraft one - LOTS more vibration from it when in 4wd.

The OEM one vibrated WAY less even at 38,000 miles - think’n more vibration probably isn’t a GOOD thing for reliability.


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That is not a carrier bearing problem in the pictures. The cross bolt on the yoke is loose and allowed the driveshafts to work there way apart causing the rear shaft to move back and pull the carrier bearing with it. Slide the shafts back together and tighten the heck out of tha cross bolt. No need to replace the bearing. It is not the cause of the problem.
To Desert Dog. I would recommend putting an oem carrier bearing back in your machine. I had the same problem. I thought a Sandcraft bearing would fix the driveshaft vibration. It did not. It made it worse. I put the original bearing back in and fixed the cause of the vibration which is the play in the splines joining the front and rear driveshafts. I put two setscrews in the yoke to keep it tight against the splines.
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I would recommend putting an oem carrier bearing back in your machine. I had the same problem. I thought a Sandcraft bearing would fix the driveshaft vibration. It did not. It made it worse. I put the original bearing back in and fixed the cause of the vibration which is the play in the splines joining the front and rear driveshafts. I put two setscrews in the yoke to keep it tight against the splines. View attachment 265593
Gonna order a new OEM one this week - wonder if the Sandcraft driveline will work with the OEM carrier bearing.


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Gonna order a new OEM one this week - wonder if the Sandcraft driveline will work with the OEM carrier bearing.


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If OEM got you 30k+ miles no need to use something different. I am at 7500 or so miles on my OEM one.


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I am baffled by this design flaw (short cut)-(value engineered) carrier bearing Luckily the crew at Sandcraft fixed this for Canam. 30K for a machine and not only did the carrier bearing fail on our first ride but we discovered that the skid plate is riveted in place. Just another VALUE ENGINEERED failure on Canam.
Other than that, my wife loves her machine

View attachment 265582


View attachment 265583
Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but it looks like the snap ring that holds the rear driveshaft into the carrier bearing has come out and the driveshaft has slid backward out of the carrier. That's why there is so little spline engagement and perhaps allows the sagging which it letting the nut hit the frame.
 
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This happened to my 2020 RR as well. The new yoke w/ bolt is nice improvement against rattles but it can slip which drives the main driveshaft back and yoke hits the frame. Nothing to do with the snap ring. Simply remove, clean off all grease, reinstall in correct phase, tighten yoke bolt. I also put a little red loctite on the shaft splines, thinking it can't hurt. Mine has never moved again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but it looks like the snap ring that holds the rear driveshaft into the carrier bearing has come out and the driveshaft has slid backward out of the carrier. That's why there is so little spline engagement and perhaps allows the sagging which it letting the nut hit the frame.
This happened to my 2020 RR as well. The new yoke w/ bolt is nice improvement against rattles but it can slip which drives the main driveshaft back and yoke hits the frame. Nothing to do with the snap ring. Simply remove, clean off all grease, reinstall in correct phase, tighten yoke bolt. I also put a little red loctite on the shaft splines, thinking it can't hurt. Mine has never moved again.
What he said
 

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That is not a carrier bearing problem in the pictures. The cross bolt on the yoke is loose and allowed the driveshafts to work there way apart causing the rear shaft to move back and pull the carrier bearing with it. Slide the shafts back together and tighten the heck out of tha cross bolt. No need to replace the bearing. It is not the cause of the problem.
To Desert Dog. I would recommend putting an oem carrier bearing back in your machine. I had the same problem. I thought a Sandcraft bearing would fix the driveshaft vibration. It did not. It made it worse. I put the original bearing back in and fixed the cause of the vibration which is the play in the splines joining the front and rear driveshafts. I put two setscrews in the yoke to keep it tight against the splines. View attachment 265593
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Its interesting that it could move at all because normally a pinch bolt like that sits in a groove cut into the splined shaft and will keep the yoke from sliding as long as the bolt is installed, no matter how loose it is. My car isn't like this, there is no pinch bolt in front of the carrier bearing. I'm assuming that's a new design for later model cars or a max or something because my '17 2-seater has the pinch bolt at the forward end of that driveline where it engages the front diff. Either that or some knucklehead put the front driveline in backward. Assuming that yoke is set up correctly, it looks as if it isn't slid onto the splines far enough, ...like the pinch bolt has to come out, slide the yoke back about an inch, and reinstall the bolt. I'd think if it were on all the way you'd see the end of the splines through the open hole in the backside of the yoke.
 
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There is no groove in the splines for the crossbolt. They should have made it with one. Not their best effort.
Again, this photo from earlier is what the rear of the front driveshaft is supposed to look like (minus the custom set screws). There is no pinch bolt in this area. The pinch bolt is in the front by the diff. The more I think about it the more I believe that DS is installed backward. What does the front end look like?
 

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The 20 and newer have a pinch bolt on both ends of the front shaft.


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Gotcha. Still looks like there isn’t nearly enough spline engagement at that connection.
 

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Gotcha. Still looks like there isn’t nearly enough spline engagement at that connection.
Yeah I don’t disagree. And not have a pass through on the rear pinch bolt is also kind of dumb as it would eliminating it sliding as well


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Yeah I don’t disagree. And not have a pass through on the rear pinch bolt is also kind of dumb as it would eliminating it sliding as well


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Well I’m assuming that the front pitch bolt on the newer cars still passes through a valley on the diff input shaft to located the front driveshaft fore and aft? Hard to imagine if that front pinch bolt is correctly installed that there would be so little spline engagement on the rear driveshaft. That truly would be a terrible design.
 
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Funny how people assume so much and make comments when they don't actually know. I actually own the new model with the updated front drive assembly. I've also had it all apart. So once again, the front drive shaft now has a pinch bolt (with no valley for bolt) that can slip. The rear driveshaft slides back. The rubber around the carrier deforms to allow this to happen (you can see this in OP pic). Then because the driveshaft gets stuck in this slid back position the deformed rubber around carrier makes the whole assembly drop a little bit and the new pinch bolt area on the front shaft will knock on the frame. It's not difficult to understand or fix when you are looking at it.
 
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