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Cage questions

9.2K views 28 replies 15 participants last post by  152Eddie  
#1 ·
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The time has finally come to replace my stock roof holder (can’t call it a cage). I have known the importance of having a real cage and fortunately I haven’t learned the hard way. My plan is to chat with whoever I decide to have build it and get their input but I figured id start here to get some pointers, advice and some answers to my specific questions. I only have two “must haves”. 1. Strong enough to protect me in a nasty incident. 2. At least as tall as the factory “not a cage”. I am 6’5” and have Simpson seats that sit up taller than the oem seats. So far my favorite looking cage is fabwerx. I absolutely love the boxed B pillar but not sure I want to spend the extra dough ($450) for it. I really like the radius roof line and as a plus, it seems that would give a little more room. I’m not a fan of flat roofs. I ride sand 90% of the time if this matters to any of my questions/concerns.
1. How much cross bracing is really needed to have an adequately strong cage? I see some cages that look like a spider web. I understand that more is probably better but how much is enough? For example roof x bracing and x bracing in what I would call rear window area.
2. Do intrusion bars add a lot of structural support or is the primary function actual intrusion protection? I have oem intrusion bars now and have gotten used to them but drove a stock car recently with no intrusion bars and the view was nice (even though it felt a bit naked). I am 50/50 on whether I want them or not. If structural integrity is lost without them, it would be an easy 100/0. I am also 50/50 on whether or not I will run a windshield. I have run a plexi windshield at one point but high temps in cabin, dust/mud clinging to it and fog causing bad visibility, and tree sap ultimately caused me to ditch it and not go back. I know a glass WS should be better (I know not perfect) for dust/mud but I worry about loss of visibility at top of windshield when riding dunes due to a glass WS frame. On top of that, my buddy had a glass WS and it cracked the first trip out from a rock impact.
Any other things I should be considering or at least talking to the builder about? What do you like and dislike about your cage? Would love to see some pictures of radius roof cages for some inspiration. Also would like to see some custom or different C pillars (bars that shock rezi’s mount on). I’ve seen some pretty cool bent ones that make the car look a little different.
Pictures of the fabwerx basic cage and boxed b pillar
 
#2 ·
Probably the most expensive but I think the best cage is Xtreme.

Chromoly, tig welded, boxed B pillar, double A pillar, intrusion bars etc.

I have been in a dozen or more off road shops. Not one even close to as sophisticated as these guys.

They build off road cars for the military and spec ops guys so photos are limited of the shop.

The shop is amazing, the level quality is the highest I've ever seen.

Tim


 
#3 ·
1. Diagonal tubes are extremely important in any chassis and cage design.
The triangle is the strongest mechanical structure, and trusses are used extensively in building and bridge construction.
Look for at least a big X or V in the roof.

A ^ in the "rear window area" can prevent racking of the cage. Racking is side impact displacement like this /=/ front view.
The rear window ^ can tie into and land right above the rear shock mount, and meet in the middle at the top.

2. Intrusion bars are just that.
They don't add much structurally because they are so laid back like the A pillars, and they don't extend to the floor.
They do help some with racking.
The best way to support the front of the roof is with a vertical tube from the center of the upper windshield tube to the floor tubes.
A secondary A pillar tube is beneficial in the same way.

3. A boxed B pillar is mostly cake decorating. Two tubes in a V shape would be better.
The second basic Fabwerx picture could have a V tube at the B pillar and would be stronger.

4. Skip the windshield IMO.

5. The "bars that shock rezi’s mount on" are not C pillars. They are completely non-structural and dead end into the plastic bed.
Only the four seater has a C pillar.
 
#9 ·
So I’m going with a local fab shop for a cage build. Going from the stock 1.875 tubes to 1.75, what do I need for my shock rezi mounts? Rubber spacer? Grind down the flat surface of the clamp and tighten it down? New clamps? Something else?

By the way, I have seizmik photon mirrors and I emailed them letting them know I’m changing cages. They are sending me new clamps. Just a quick shout out for great customer service.
 
#16 ·
Thad at Faberwerx has some good deals on cages. I think he builds one of the nicest cages for the X3, but I am bias because I have one of his cages and have used him for other cages.
 
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#18 · (Edited)
Had a change in plans. My local guy broke his foot and is backed up for a while. Thad from Fabwerx got back to me today and was able to fulfill all my requests. 3” taller than his normal cage, so about the same as stock or slightly taller, getting the boxed B pillars (my personal favorite feature/design of their cage), tilted whip tabs and tabs on A pillars for BD pods (XL80 or LP4’s) and powder coated in my custom color. They will be installing it for me on my way to Glamis (from nor Cal) toward the end of the month. Super excited.
 
#20 ·
Not sure if they fixed the picture issue but figured I’d update and complete this cage thread. I love how it turned out and got a couple extra surprises in the end. I wasn’t expecting the lower windshield deflector and the B pillars are a new design. Not sure if they are going to stay that way for the taller cages but I like that’s it’s a little unique for now. Looks like the pic issue is still ongoing but I’ll try again later.
 
#21 ·
Glad he got it all done for you. Interested to see how the taller cage and new b-pillars look.

Hope the picture thing gets sorted out. We want to see.
 
#22 ·
It's very important to make the the rear cage and bumper one piece like this. Because x3 rears wad up when they land on the rear a more than few times. Window nets are a good idea. Trailing arm reenforcement kits. I had the front end reenforcemt kit and a pretty strong front end covering bumper crash bar. Both of my trailing arms are bent and it required cutting the rear cage down tubes and pulling out the rear in the muffler mount area.




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#23 ·
Glad he got it all done for you. Interested to see how the taller cage and new b-pillars look.

Hope the picture thing gets sorted out. We want to see.
Glad he got it all done for you. Interested to see how the taller cage and new b-pillars look.

Hope the picture thing gets sorted out. We want to see.
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