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When I first tried my brakes it felt like they needed to be bled. When I got the buggy to my shop I bled front and rear -- no joy. And while I do have power brakes on all my street cars, my race car has manual brakes so I know what solid manual brakes are supposed to feel like.

I figured that the long runs of flex hose was expanding under pressure and causing the spongy feel. I've seen this before. As part of the fabrication to install my Fuel Safe under-seat fuel cell, I had to relocate the rear brake lines and ran steel tubing and minimum run of quality SS braided hose. The hose you see in the photo could be shorter and would have but I had a couple leftover new hoses this length in my brake parts stash so used them on this new ride.

Haven't got to the front yet but just doing the rears made a night and day difference. So you can get a firmer pedal if you're willing to spend some time and $$. Once I get the fronts changed over to hard lines I believe I will achieve that solid feel I prefer.

View attachment 268629
Indeed!
Curious to hear a report when tested...
 

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Shock Therapy had a video yesterday on their race X3. Per the video Brembo makes the brakes for Can Am. They did hard lines and a larger rotor.

Can Am has never had solid feeling brakes, but they work when you need them.
 

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I ride mainly in WV and my X3 along with all of my friends X3s wear the pads exactly as you describe. It’s the riding conditions - I get maybe 650 miles on a set of rear pads in WV.

Rode 7 days in AZ recently. Pads showed no wear after 1000 miles. Just changed them after 1700 total miles. 1000 AZ and 700 WV.




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2021 XRS RR w/ SmartShox
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@NAZ thank you for that info and the pics. I knew there was a simple solution to this problem. The brakes suck and it seems most on here just choose to accept it. I can say for sure that the brakes on the 19 Defender I just sold were much better (with bigger tires). I knew that it had to be line expansion and/or undersized pads/calipers. I’ll see if I can find a race shop or someplace like that to make me some solid brake lines.
 

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2020 XDS RR, 2019 Sport 1000R
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@NAZ thank you for that info and the pics. I knew there was a simple solution to this problem. The brakes suck and it seems most on here just choose to accept it. I can say for sure that the brakes on the 19 Defender I just sold were much better (with bigger tires). I knew that it had to be line expansion and/or undersized pads/calipers. I’ll see if I can find a race shop or someplace like that to make me some solid brake lines.
Buy yourself a flare tool and have at it. Pretty easy to do brake lines.
 

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2020 X3 XRS Turbo RR
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If you decide to do your own lines let me recommend you purchase an Eastwood flaring tool, these are the best I've used and I've used a bunch of different flaring tools. The basic kit makes typical SAE 45-deg inverted flairs but you'll need a tool to make 37-deg AN double flairs and Eastwood makes a die kit for those as well. The basic kit is $198 and the 37-deg die kit is another $111. Pricey, yes -- all good quality tools are and this is the best flaring tool you will find. I do alot of fabricating on race cars so I tend to buy quality parts and tools.

Besides the typical brake line fabrication parts you would use for an SAE application you will also need some 10MM banjo to -3AN adapters to connect the M/C and the calipers. The two styles I used for this project were sourced from Summit Racing: #AER-FBM2947 for the M/C & #EAR-9978035ERL for the calipers. Don't forget the copper crush washers #VRR-BRC227. The cost of doing the rear was a bit over $400 (materials only) and I had alot of the materials leftover from other builds so it would have been closer to $500 if I had to purchase all the parts. I expect the front will be about the same cost for materials but a bit more labor intensive with shorter runs and more bends and mounting brackets.

Good luck with your project and if you farm out the work at least you have a ballpark idea of the cost of materials. Custom fabrication is very labor intensive and spoilage is higher than a simple bolt together project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Welcome from NW Oregon!

How many miles on the brakes?
Sounds like you have sticking calipers or piston, possibly only one piston is functioning however it's strange that it's on both sides causing uneven wear.
I would depress the pistons with the pad back in (see if there is any binding) and have someone press the brakes while you can watch to see if they are functioning equally.
750 miles on unit. From what I have read if air is in system that can cause wear as stated. At 400 miles brought back to dealer to bleed system. Checked brakes when brought out this spring and found uneven wear so with new pads in after next big ride will pull calipers and check them. Brakes were substandard from the purchase in my opinion for a high performance pc of equipment. Also am going to bleed brake system with vacuum pump to totally replace all brake fluid in unit
 

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750 miles on unit. From what I have read if air is in system that can cause wear as stated. At 400 miles brought back to dealer to bleed system. Checked brakes when brought out this spring and found uneven wear so with new pads in after next big ride will pull calipers and check them. Brakes were substandard from the purchase in my opinion for a high performance pc of equipment. Also am going to bleed brake system with vacuum pump to totally replace all brake fluid in unit
good luck, I’ve done that 6 different times with no better results.
 
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