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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody have their X3 leaning to one side? I adjusted all my preload and such last year and now have noticed after a good 1400 miles my machine leans to the passenger side some. Is it common for one side to wear out before the other? Would my beat fix be adding more preload to the one side or breaking down and getting new springs? I'm 275lbs and ride with a 135lbs gf. Idk why it would lean towards her side unless i tend to drift that way more or something lol. It's not the ground either as it looks the same in my garage. My machine is in the middle.
 

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Could be a sagging spring or bad shock or something is bent suspension wise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Your left camber looks negative and the right one positive.
I'd first check my frontend.
I should note the wheel wasn't completely straight in that pic. The drivers side wheel has had some negative camber at the top. Might have something to do with the back passenger side sagging though. Passenger side front tire is plumb.
 

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I should note the wheel wasn't completely straight in that pic. The drivers side wheel has had some negative camber at the top. Might have something to do with the back passenger side sagging though. Passenger side front tire is plumb.
I'd still check it out; lift the front, loosen all 4 pivot bolts, check for excessive movement, if ok set down and tighten all bolts. Same for the back end.
If all is ok and still leaning: disconnect one side of each sway bar, still leaning?, lift one end at center and adjust springs on other end to level; repeat for other end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I should note the wheel wasn't completely straight in that pic. The drivers side wheel has had some negative camber at the top. Might have something to do with the back passenger side sagging though. Passenger side front tire is plumb.
I'd still check it out; lift the front, loosen all 4 pivot bolts, check for excessive movement, if ok set down and tighten all bolts. Same for the back end.
If all is ok and still leaning: disconnect one side of each sway bar, still leaning?, lift one end at center and adjust springs on other end to level; repeat for other end.
I just had all the A arms off to put in some Garage Products bushings. Everything seemed tight and straight. Up front anyways, didn't check the rear.
 

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If you lift up on the passenger side does it stay in place? Bushings could be really tight and not allowing shock springs to fully extend easy.
 

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I had a SXS leaning like that, i showed the buyer it when he was looking at it.

He later told me it was mostly from the sway bar not being flat. He laid the sway bar on the concrete and one end was up. Worth looking into. Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you lift up on the passenger side does it stay in place? Bushings could be really tight and not allowing shock springs to fully extend easy.
If I lift on the passenger side the shock does extend and move like the drivers side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I had a SXS leaning like that, i showed the buyer it when he was looking at it.

He later told me it was mostly from the sway bar not being flat. He laid the sway bar on the concrete and one end was up. Worth looking into. Tim
Guess that make sense. I would assume disconnecting sway bar would would level things out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'd still check it out; lift the front, loosen all 4 pivot bolts, check for excessive movement, if ok set down and tighten all bolts. Same for the back end.
If all is ok and still leaning: disconnect one side of each sway bar, still leaning?, lift one end at center and adjust springs on other end to level; repeat for other end.
Are you saying to lift the front end and adjust the rear and vice versa?
 

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Guess that make sense. I would assume disconnecting sway bar would would level things out?
Disconnect the sway bar and drive it back and forth to settle it and see. Pretty easy to check. Tim
 
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Are you saying to lift the front end and adjust the rear and vice versa?
Yes, sway bars disconnected, level ground and lift in center; adjust the spring on the other end to level.
You can also preload the springs to your preferred load condition by adding load to one or other seat.
 

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If I were to push it up on the one low side it does stay up some so it's not leaning as bad. Thoughts?
Considering you just had new bushings installed they can bind and give you the leaning to one side issue your having. If that's the case the bushings will loosen up the more you drive it. Been there done that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Considering you just had new bushings installed they can bind and give you the leaning to one side issue your having. If that's the case the bushings will loosen up the more you drive it. Been there done that.
I've got one ride on the UHMW bushings. I did tighten them all down with the arms hanging. Would it behoove me to loosen all the A arm bolts and retighten them with the weight on the arms/tires? Don't see that making a big difference but idk anymore on this thing.
 

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Mine had a lean. It took me a while to figure it out. A seal in one of the rear shocks was damaged and oil was leaking from it. Check your shock shafts for oil.
 

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Considering you just had new bushings installed they can bind and give you the leaning to one side issue your having. If that's the case the bushings will loosen up the more you drive it. Been there done that.
I replaced my bushings and the arms would barely move by hand at factory torque spec without shocks/wheels attached. Cycles fine now. They could be rather tight till they "seat". Measure the shock shaft exposed on each side. Also might VERIFY if the stock can am wear plates should be used or not with your manufactures bushings. Flip shocks? The initial pic looks like you have some camber in the front which is not adjustable as far as I know without a bad ball joint or the skinny pedal.

Torque spec is 77 lbf*ft +/- 11lbs ft for all front a-arm bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I replaced my bushings and the arms would barely move by hand at factory torque spec without shocks/wheels attached. Cycles fine now. They could be rather tight till they "seat". Measure the shock shaft exposed on each side. Also might VERIFY if the stock can am wear plates should be used or not with your manufactures bushings. Flip shocks? The initial pic looks like you have some camber in the front which is not adjustable as far as I know without a bad ball joint or the skinny pedal.

Torque spec is 77 lbf*ft +/- 11lbs ft for all front a-arm bolts.
The Garage Product bushings recommend not using the metal retainer plates. Shocks are flipped but they've been that way for a little over a year now. I did hit a tree stump earlier this year and bent both arms on the drivers front. I do have a CT Raceworx Gusset though. With new Arms on the drivers side it does have some negative camber. This was after the hit. 20180803_171235.jpg
 
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