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A couple things with clutching from 20 years of racing prostock snowmobiles- same exact clutching setup. Any primary/secondary misalignment at initial all the way thru full shift will create heat- eat hp and destroy belts. We always find misalignment from the factory- you need to full shift out the clutches installed and check that. Machining on factory clutches is almost always crappy.

No need to buy clutch kits until your clutches are aligned and set up properly. We routinely waste people in a race with identical stock sleds just by setting up/machining our stock clutches.

You'd be surprised how much wheel go you will gain just by doing these things.

Any belt slip from too much hp and not enough sheave side pressure does the same thing- (if either clutch is grooved or has rubber on it that's your sign)
KEEP THE CLUTCHES CLEAN!!!- and I mean real clean.
 

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A couple things with clutching from 20 years of racing prostock snowmobiles- same exact clutching setup. Any primary/secondary misalignment at initial all the way thru full shift will create heat- eat hp and destroy belts. We always find misalignment from the factory- you need to full shift out the clutches installed and check that. Machining on factory clutches is almost always crappy.

No need to buy clutch kits until your clutches are aligned and set up properly. We routinely waste people in a race with identical stock sleds just by setting up/machining our stock clutches.

You'd be surprised how much wheel go you will gain just by doing these things.

Any belt slip from too much hp and not enough sheave side pressure does the same thing- (if either clutch is grooved or has rubber on it that's your sign)
KEEP THE CLUTCHES CLEAN!!!- and I mean real clean.

Can you start a thread telling us how to check alignment through shift out etc. I understand what you're saying but would have no idea how to accomplish it. Tim
 

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A couple things with clutching from 20 years of racing prostock snowmobiles- same exact clutching setup. Any primary/secondary misalignment at initial all the way thru full shift will create heat- eat hp and destroy belts. We always find misalignment from the factory- you need to full shift out the clutches installed and check that. Machining on factory clutches is almost always crappy.

No need to buy clutch kits until your clutches are aligned and set up properly. We routinely waste people in a race with identical stock sleds just by setting up/machining our stock clutches.

You'd be surprised how much wheel go you will gain just by doing these things.

Any belt slip from too much hp and not enough sheave side pressure does the same thing- (if either clutch is grooved or has rubber on it that's your sign)
KEEP THE CLUTCHES CLEAN!!!- and I mean real clean.

Hey aircraftman, nice post......curious what years you raced prostock sleds? Also which brand. The $1,000,000 question I can't seem to get a straight answer on is will the QRS helix off of a new Ski-Doo fit the maverick? They sure look the same.
 

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We still race them pro. We run Arctic Cats now but ran Yamaha for years prior to that.

I'm writing a post to thoroughly explain clutching and it will be quite long so bear with me a couple days while i write it. I will put it up here.
Yes your skidoo helix will work. Just do some comparative measuring to ensure before you bolt it in.
 

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maybe someone can help me out with my secondary clutch gap.....I purchased a kit from Adam at AIRDAM and installed it in the secondary clutch/ spring and helix.
The helix sits perfectly where it should......the problem (if its a problem?) is that I can see light/ a gap between the sheaves......the prior posts on this thread show that there shouldn't be a gap and the sheaves should be touching. The sheaves touch at the 4 raised points perfectly but the sheave surfaces don't because of the 4 raised touching points.....am I missing something or don't understand something ? I pulled it back apart and without the helix or spring and the sheaves sit perfectly together on the raised 4 points in the pic attachment


don't ask me to contact Adam at Airdam…..I've sent multiple emails and called......zero replies once I purchased the product, I'm still trying to get a clutch kit/reply back on my RZR clutch after a month of asking so I guess I will have to purchase elsewhere. Two sets of clutches out on a table for weeks waiting for a reply is quite frustrating.....among other things

Hopefully someone can tell me if the secondary has a problem or if this is correct

Thanks
 

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if the gap is even all the way around, and you can see daylight clearly all the way thru, thats ok. when you have no gap on one side and a big gap on the other, thats not right. if you take the clutch with no belt on, put a 17mm socket on an impact or drill and put it on the secondary bolt, spin the bolt with the drill or impact to get it spinning to speed, does the inner sheave and outer sheave spin smoothly and evenly? when the clutch is spinning with the impact or drill, if both the inner and outer sheaves spin smoothly and evently with each other then you are ok to re-install it.
 

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Thanks Adam...…..everything looks good, big gap between the sheaves but its even. Going back together, looking forward to trying it out !
 

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help !........I pulled my primary and went to my BRP dealer with it and the new spring for my clutch kit.....I asked them to pull apart the clutch and install it.


An hour later I got a call back saying that they don't have the tool to separate/open the clutch !......they didn't know how to open it and have never opened one.....its a big dealership and the have lots of can am's for sale.....weird and i'm out of luck with them


next dealership is over an hour away...…..can do this myself at home ?...I have a 30 ton press and a crapload of tools.....I don't want to have to build/weld a tool to take the damn governors cup off one time

any ideas ?
 

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help !........I pulled my primary and went to my BRP dealer with it and the new spring for my clutch kit.....I asked them to pull apart the clutch and install it.


An hour later I got a call back saying that they don't have the tool to separate/open the clutch !......they didn't know how to open it and have never opened one.....its a big dealership and the have lots of can am's for sale.....weird and i'm out of luck with them


next dealership is over an hour away...…..can do this myself at home ?...I have a 30 ton press and a crapload of tools.....I don't want to have to build/weld a tool to take the damn governors cup off one time

any ideas ?
youtube it and do it yourself with parts from the hardware store. Its sad that MOST dealers have no clue on anything other than oil changes.
 

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I just got off the phone with another BRP dealer and they said that they will not touch the clutch off the machine !......I would have to reinstall it and trailer the whole thing to the dealership !!! this is crazy !!
 

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Has anyone used or tried a 3 jaw puller like a steering wheel puller ?
 

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Can you tell me the name of the video or give me a link?
I couldn’t find anything

Thanks
 
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the primary splitter tool bolts to the top of the primary. EVERY can-am dealer was sent one, they might have never used it before but they have it. They can look in their inventory at "ordered" items and it wont show up because they didnt order it. Can-am sends them specialty tools to work on their machines, they were sent it. Its in an 8x8x8" box with directions inside the box. it takes about 6 minutes to do with the clutch sitting on the table in front of you start to finish.

the part number is 529036350

you could always send the clutch to me and i would do the work for you. its not hard, but most dealers are complete poons.
 

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I agree Adam......a large BRP dealer that has been in business for decades and they said they have never opened a clutch that needed the tool.....I told them they have it, it was sent to them...…..I still cant believe the other dealer 60 miles away told me they would not touch my clutch or open it for me because I took it off the vehicle myself.....flat out said they only work on whole vehicles.

I'm either going just buy the tool, have one made or just send it to you.....Thanks
 

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Can you tell me the name of the video or give me a link?
I couldn’t find anything

Thanks
I cant find what I fell is relevant to making the tools yourself. Mega show us what the answer is. Tim
 
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