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Do you think I need to do clutch work with a stage 3 evo tune? If so whats it usually cost

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I'm running the Evo stage 3 on my 15 xds. Have a full weekend at the dunes and a local ride since the reflash and still running the original stock belt. My machine just turned over 1300miles.

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Looks like his standard two seat turbo kit, silver primary spring and black secondary spring with a straight 40 helix. His 4 seat kit looks to be the same springs with a 35/40 multi angle helix
Thanks for the response.i been trying to figure out what it was for a long time.its sitting in a box now.seemed to have quite higher belt temps with it over stock.Not bashing at all,but I gave up on trying to get ahold of airdam.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Hasn't answered me in quite some time either just have to keep trying. I'll hit him up after the holidays.
 

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Hasn't answered me in quite some time either just have to keep trying. I'll hit him after the holidays.
I fixed it for you, I knew what you really wanted to type !

Lmao !!


Tim
 

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send me an email guys i am sorry if i missed you. i have been running around for weeks chasing the final races of the season and then thanksgiving and been trying to catch up from missing a few weeks for the baja 1000.

there are a few reasons you can and or will blow a belt. i have seen an incredible number of stock secondary clutches that have deformation to the face of the clutches, something that cant be fixed with a clutch kit or calibrations. the clutch is actually machined and warped from too much clamping pressure to the face of the clutch during machining. folks who have a clutch that is like this, will inevitably blow belts before, and after the insallation of my parts with no avail. the only way to fix it, is to diagnose it and if yours is one thats bad, it has to be machined back smooth which i have done for quite a few owners and all of my desert racers. i know there is an issue with them, some are worse than others, but its not something i can fix without everyone sending in their secondary clutch to be machined and re-assembled properly. every one of my desert race teams, i make sure they send me theirs, and i machine them smooth regardless of how bad out they are from the factory. this gives me and them peace of mind that they wont have an issue. some are much worse than others. some are decent enough that you cant really tell or hurt the belt, some are bad enough that nothing will fix it but machining the clutch smooth.

below are a picture or two of the high and low spot on the clutch face. this is the outer fixed sheave. i put the shaft in the lathe and spin it and use a marker to wipe the face of the clutch. it shows the high spots in blue and the low spots are not marked. this is from the distortion caused by too much clamping pressure on the jaws of the CNC lathe that was holding the clutch face when it was machined.

IMG_6533.jpg

IMG_6534.jpg



there are other things, one of which is the most common issue i see when someone is blowing belts. and its an installation issue. one that i really never saw coming and really dont see how it happens but gosh it seems to be happening so much lately. in the inner half of the secondary what is called the movable sheave, there is a recessed section in the center of the clutch. and the helix legs have to sit completely down in this recess. they will. i have them machined the exact same diameter as the machined recess. they fit snug to make sure it centers the helix. the stock helix is .001" under and will fit somewhat loosely. mine is a smidge tighter fit and sometimes takes a rubber mallet to tap the clutch to make sure you get the helix down into the recess and all 4 legs to sit snugly against the base of the clutch. many many times lately i have seen customers having probelms and send me their clutch back and i get it in this kinda shape. i literally just unboxed this one to look over for a customer. and found his issue quite quickly which i will picture diagram here.


first picture is the secondary assembled just as the owner sent it back

IMG_6521.jpg

showing all 4 bolts tight and snug and ready to go

IMG_6522.jpg

this is where you can start to see the problem though. between the two sheaves there should be no gap

IMG_6524.jpg

but as you can see, there is daylight between one side and you can see the leg of the helix. this can mean only one thing. the movable sheave is not bottomed out against the fixed sheave

IMG_6525.jpg

as you can see where the marker shows, three sections do touch and one section does not touch

IMG_6526.jpg

only one section not touching means only one thing.

IMG_6527.jpg

there was a helix leg that wasnt seated down into the recessed section of the clutch. so the helix was actually in crooked. you can see where this leg was the one that was smushed down into the recess at the angle

IMG_6528.jpg

which leaves this leg on the opposite side of the helix out in the open free air

IMG_6529.jpg

the bolts can be tight but the helix actually in crooked and not all 4 legs touching the face of the clutch. since the helix controls the placement of the inner movable sheave and its relation to where it sits, the helix being mounted in crooked means the inner sheave of the secondary will be wobbling back and forth every single rotation. this causes the clutch to skip over the belt and you will blow belts continually.

IMG_6530.jpg
 

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send me an email with questions guys. i literally pulled this clutch out of the box and was working on it today and saw its problems and wanted to get on here and address them. when i noticed you guys talking about this on the front page. so i decided to lay it on you. multiple problems, multiple causes, and the only fix it to diagnose and fix and repair.

emails to [email protected] with any questions.

this clutch above is a customer that sent his in. if you know who you are, i am working on yours today and found your issue with the belts. the above pictures are all from your secondary. leg of the helix wasnt down all the way, and the fixed sheave is warped pretty bad.
 

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who you have do that so i know to avoid them. lol.
Figured, see what i get for letting my local ass tarded dealer do the install. Let this be a lesson to everyone to just send it to the pro and let him handle it. I knew something wasn't right. How did the primary look? I would assume something was jacked up in there as well.
 

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Dealers have to have mechanics who are familiar with how these things work! Here are some pictures of a customer from Washington, who had his local dealer install the kit, he came down to Oregon to have our local dealer look at why his installed ///airdam clutch kit was blowing belts. Obviously he now had to purchase a whole new secondary and helix.....

20160630_082823.jpg 20160630_082844.jpg
 

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cool, thats waay out of my way here in salt lake, but i do have a couple 3 within reason, the newest one of whitch a buddy works at, (forget the name)... so i at least have a trusted guy... id do myself, but i feel like id be money ahead just paying someone sense the special primary tool seems exspensive
 

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I measured the run out with a dial indicator on my secondary clutch. I have .015 run out. Is this within specs?
 

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not to thread jack, but what springs and helix are yall running for dunes/trail/moab setup?
 
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