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Post 'em up!

Silicone Shock Bushing O-Rings courtesy of HeavySledz... $20 bucks for entire rig. Worthwhile investment.
IMG_0377.jpg

This is my next project I am working on... 27" Rear Anti-Collision Chase Light. $80 bucks on Amazon. Plus mounts. 8 different strobe settings, excellent for dusty conditions and at night time.
514kYw-Gg0L.jpg

Also, front and rear gussets are a solid investment for $50 bucks a pop.
 

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image.jpg Led light swap 5 bucks
 
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Direct fit
 

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Post 'em up!

Silicone Shock Bushing O-Rings courtesy of HeavySledz... $20 bucks for entire rig. Worthwhile investment.
View attachment 7702

This is my next project I am working on... 27" Rear Anti-Collision Chase Light. $80 bucks on Amazon. Plus mounts. 8 different strobe settings, excellent for dusty conditions and at night time.
View attachment 7703

Also, front and rear gussets are a solid investment for $50 bucks a pop.
Thanks for the props....I am interested in the rear light bar....would be interested in seeing it when you get it installed...

one of my personal favorites that i did was the "seat mod" which was removing the crappy release mechanism and bolting it in. Costs around $4-5 in parts and was one of the best mods I have done so far.

http://www.maverickforums.net/forum/12-suspension/2620-drivers-seat-mods.html



 

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Sport low, good bang for the buck. besides getting full power in low you get rid of that stupid throttle delay. It can be a inexpensive, DIY mod if you choose to build your own harness.
 

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Used Chain brew on my shock bushing last year. After 12 races, a bunch of trips to the coast and just playing around after one year it took about 10 minutes to pull them out for maintance. This stuff works great for almost anything that squeeks. It has a $hit load of FTFE micro polymers.
 

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Thanks for the props....I am interested in the rear light bar....would be interested in seeing it when you get it installed...

one of my personal favorites that i did was the "seat mod" which was removing the crappy release mechanism and bolting it in. Costs around $4-5 in parts and was one of the best mods I have done so far.

http://www.maverickforums.net/forum/12-suspension/2620-drivers-seat-mods.html



Heavy, what size did you cut it to? I want to find a large wing nut to eliminate tools?
 

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Heavy, what size did you cut it to? I want to find a large wing nut to eliminate tools?
I will have to check tomorrow.....I don't think a wing nut will work due to the way the head of the stud gets recessed down into the base of the seat frame....I would love to see someone create a quick release of some sort though...
 

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I wish I could do the seat mod, hate that adjustable lever, but between me and wife driving and height difference its impossible. so how to you hook up those leds under your sxs. what switch and power source, never messed with that before but would love to add it, if you can explain it
 

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I wish I could do the seat mod, hate that adjustable lever, but between me and wife driving and height difference its impossible. so how to you hook up those leds under your sxs. what switch and power source, never messed with that before but would love to add it, if you can explain it
You can do the seat mount mod and still leave in the adjustable seat position setup. I first thought it was the adjustable lever setup that was creating all of the flopping around and rattling. I now think 90% of it was from the rear latch mount setup. Bolting it in makes it part of the chassis and greatly improves ride quality and confidence as you feel like you are part of the vehicle and not getting flopped around.....
 

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5 bucks on ebay get a hand full of yellow plastic grease zerk covers to keep the fine dust/sand out of there and getting pushed inside when you grease
good one....on my list now :wink:
 

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Grease zerk covers...... Wth. 4500 miles in wv mud and only had to replace the bushings once. I think the little dust on the zerks will be fine us southern mud guys have to be lmao at this!!!!


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I will have to check tomorrow.....I don't think a wing nut will work due to the way the head of the stud gets recessed down into the base of the seat frame....I would love to see someone create a quick release of some sort though...
Looks like the tread is long enough to add a spacer which could make a wing nut work?

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