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Welcome from Las Vegas. Invest in a good 1/2 skid plate and you won't have that problem again.
 

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got a factory utv skid plate in the cart!
I went with the Full Skids Half Inch UHMW with integrated Slider Nerfs (RED) by Trail Armor.
I am sure either will be fine. I have put mine through the test.
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Well got the back half skid plate off. Very thin metal under the rear diff. Was bent into the diff a little bit. Don’t see any damage to the casing. With a flat head I was able to bend it off the differential, it’s that than/weak. Debating on grinding it off and welding my own thicker metal underneath.
Do you have any more pictures of that area not so close up?
 

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You want from the front looking back or back looking to the front?
I am just trying to see where the area is you were thinking of cutting off to make your own plate, and your welding points would be. I know how thin this steel is and how hard it it to weld up unless you have a very high quality welder.
 

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or I weld a couple tabs to the existing bent metal and try to pull it back into place and then either leave it and put the new skid plate on or also add something to strengthen it.
If it was me, I wouldn't want to chance welding into the tube and possible weaken it. I would bend what I could to as close to straight as possible and weld a 3/16 plate onto the existing plate staying away from the frame tubes with some drilled spot welding holes to keep everything held to each other. The 1/2 inch skid plate you will get will be strong enough so you just want to carry that impact zone through a bigger support area. I am not the best welder and my welder is crap so that's why I would personally never take the added risk to weaken the frame tube by welding into it. I would take it to a specialized welding shop to have it done if taking that approach.
 

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Now that I said I wouldn't myself weld into the frame tubes I did do that on the front bulkhead, but I was able to add outer and inner gussets to gain a lot of extra supports, so I felt ok doing that along with me adding a 3/8 steel center support to replace the thin tube. I also added the CT upper Frame support and the SATV lower frame support. I feel I have added a lot of strength so that's why I went ahead and welded into the tubes.
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That’s looks pretty sturdy. I have the CT front gusset kit sitting in the garage waiting for winter to install.
That SATV lower frame support saved me from damaging my frame when I ripped off my lower S3 Arm along with snapping my upper ball joint. It only allowed my rear A Arm bolt to slightly bend that had a slight flex on front frame as that bolt goes through the tube. I was worried I had done some damage to frame, but I have not saw any signs beyond the initial paint flake. I am sure that if I didn't have that SATV lower frame support I would have had more damage done.
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I’ll look up and make sure the SATV lower is compatible with the CT gusset kit. Wanting to do everything at once when the front end is torn apart.
It should as I have a mixture of CT gussets in my front, along with CA, and the bulk head from SATV bumper assembly. I did a mixture of all 3 using what looked like the best parts. CT upper frame support and CT Race plate. I also got longer bolts and cut them down to make the shoulder on the bolts fit perfectly. I put a lot of time into getting the front just right to hold up to what I will put it through.
 

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When it comes to UTV fabrication the first name I think of is Supersmith Fabrication.
I am glad I wasn't drinking anything when I read that as it would be all over my monitors. LMAO
 
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