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Discussion Starter #1
So long story short this passed weeked i landed a big jump slightly sideways. It was in very soft sand and initially everything looked normal. Once i loaded on trailer i noticed one tire looked to have much more camber than the other. Nothing looks bent or twisted. There is some slack at the rear radius rod mounts at the frame, no movement from bolt, just the rods and you can hear the slack. I also heard the while driving afterwards once or twice but couldnt pinpoint it. Can the camber issue be caused from excess slack or did i bend something that i cant see? Heres a pic


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If there’s nothing bent, chances are the studs that hold the radius rods to the chassis shifted. If you want to fix that permanently, send a PM to Scott_F here on the forum. He makes a bolt and bushing kit to prevent that from happening and save the holes in the frame back there.
 

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exactly, the holes in the frame are too large for the bolts and they slop around eventually wearing out your frame. Like said above contact Scott F for a kit to fix your issue.
 

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Tough to tell from the pic. Put a straight edge on it to confirm whether it's bent or not. I recommend that you look into aftermarket radius rods. Scott F does make a very nice plate.
 
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Tough to tell from the pic. Put a straight edge on it to confirm whether it's bent or not. I recommend that you look into aftermarket radius rods. Scott F does make a very nice plate.
Straight edge where exactly?

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So after pulling the stock plate for inspection and seeing how much slop is in from the factory ill be ordering Scott's nut plates and either a ZRP or CA tech pull plate to tighten things up. I was really blown away at how much larger all the holes are compared to the studs themselves. I still cant find anything bent or twisted so ill see how it looks after the new parts.

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I recommend the plate from TMW Offroad. It’s true double shear. I’ve had mine for several thousand miles and put it on when I did Scott’s kit. I was the test bed for the kit before it was available. I replaced the radius rods at the same time with rods from CT Raceworks. Replacing the rods allowed for full adjustability for rear alignment, plus basically making the rear bulletproof. Many thousands of miles later and some very hard riding and everything is nice and tight back there.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I recommend the plate from TMW Offroad. It’s true double shear. I’ve had mine for several thousand miles and put it on when I did Scott’s kit. I was the test bed for the kit before it was available. I replaced the radius rods at the same time with rods from CT Raceworks. Replacing the rods allowed for full adjustability for rear alignment, plus basically making the rear bulletproof. Many thousands of miles later and some very hard riding and everything is nice and tight back there.
Thanks, ill definately check out the TMW plate as well. Im really hoping to keep the stock rods as i like the idea of keeping them as fuses per say but if it becomes an inconvenience then ill definately upgrade.

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Im really hoping to keep the stock rods as i like the idea of keeping them as fuses per say
I have over 8000 miles on the stock radius rods without any trouble at all. They do function as good fuses.

How to bend radius rods:

Barrel roll the car a few times.
Slam the rear wheels into a solid immovable object while sliding sideways.
Crash the lower rod into a boulder or tree stump.
Be creative and come up with another way to wreck your car.

How not to bend radius rods:

Don't do any of the above.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
I have over 8000 miles on the stock radius rods without any trouble at all. They do function as good fuses.

How to bend radius rods:

Barrel roll the car a few times.
Slam the rear wheels into a solid immovable object while sliding sideways.
Crash the lower rod into a boulder or tree stump.
Be creative and come up with another way to wreck your car.

How not to bend radius rods:

Don't do any of the above.
Lol, thanks again for all the help, ill be ordering your plates shortly

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I had slack in my stock rod ends at not even 100 miles.

I could move my rear tire side to side about a half inch.

Everything was tight and straight.

I put my finger over each rod end as I moved the tire and there was noticeable play in the rod end.

Ended up with CA tech rods and did the tls kit at the same time while I was in there. 2000 miles now and solid as a rock.




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