Ted at .50 caliber said to torque between 10 and 12ft lbs. So basically twice of the stock wheels. Does that sound right?
i would stay at 10ft puonds, the bolts are metric and a little smaler than 1/4" that OMF uses. DEFINETLY use neverseize.
here is what OMF says for theirs.
3. Place the outer beadlock clamp ring on the tire, aligning it with the bolt holes in the inner beadlock ring.
4. Before installing the hardware, lubricate the beadlock bolts with anti-seize or equivalent lubricant to prevent gaulding of the threads.
5. All bolts should be started by hand to avoid cross threading. Impact wrenches are not recommended for installing or tightening bolts, due to the
possibility of over or under tightening.
6. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern, a few turns at a time, to ensure even pressure on the bead lock clamp ring. Follow the instructions below
for exact torque specs for your wheel:
6”, 8”, 9”, 10”, 11”, and 12” Beadlocks (1/4-20 Grade 8 Bolt)
Tighten all of the bolts to 4 - 6 ft/lbs. Check that the tire is still centered on the rim at this point.
Tighten all of the bolts to 10 - 12 ft/lbs. Continue to step #7
9. Beadlocks are not maintenance free. After the first 100 miles of driving, and every subsequent 250 miles, you will need to re-torque the beadlock
bolts. To re-torque the beadlock bolts, raise the vehicle and remove the valve core from the valve stem, releasing all of the air from the tire. In a
criss-cross pattern confirm that all of the beadlock bolts are torqued to the correct specification as listed above. Repeat process for every wheel.
Furthermore, the beadlock hardware on every wheel should be replaced annually, whenever new tires are mounted, or after extreme use.
