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Hello all. Has anyone had a hard time removing the inner cv (axle) from the rear diff?? If so could the clip be left out when reassembling. Thanks.
 

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Simple answer, No. You don't want them to slide in and out with suspension movement. When you reassemble , use new clip load the axle with grease. When my new axels came in I noticed a grove machined in them near the cup, so I installed an "O" ring to seal up the cavity so mud and water can not get in there. It's a poor design IMHO. The internal splines on the main drive gear stripped out due this design.
 

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No, at full droop guys have had them pop out. Its there for a reason, removal is not difficult with the correct bar to pop it free, I know they can be a pain.
 

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There is a YouTube video showing techniques to removing stubborn axels. Basically attach a strap to the axel to provide additional force.
 

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Removing the axle is easy if there was grease or anti-seize on the splines when they were originally installed. If not it is 50/50 on whether they will pop right out or you yank the axle out of the CV. You need the clip or they axles will fall out.

If you can get the opposite axle out you can take a long extension and hammer out the stubborn axle.

When you re-install or install new axles make sure to use anti-seize or grease on the splines.
 

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There is a CV tool available that is used in a slide hammer and it fits behind the CV cup like a fork. Works well. 38 bucks on Amazon.
 

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There is a CV tool available that is used in a slide hammer and it fits behind the CV cup like a fork. Works well. 38 bucks on Amazon.
Where did you find one that was thin enough to fit between the cv and the case. I bought an OTC and it would not fit. Too thick.
 

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I think a lot of the folks who have them grind them down to fit. That's what my buddy did.
 
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You would have too. There's only about a 1/16 of an inch clearance. I thought about it but was concerned it would weaken the tool too much. Might try it on a cheap one from Amazon.
 

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Fronts have always been easy on my rig. I had a hell of a time with my rears after 2k miles though, maybe because they have such a larger contact surface and the stock grease had over heated.

After dousing everything in PB blaster a few times and gassing myself trying to pull, I ended up putting a 5lb mallet on a tow strap. Then securing the other end around the inner joint where it meets the tranny. Tied a second tow strap to the trailer sitting next to it and cranked that b down real tight. A couple good swings on the mallet got one side out, then I just used a breaker bar to pop the other side out through the tranny.
 

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Fronts are submersed in oil allowing easy removal. The rears on the other hand are open to water, mud, and dirt causing them to rust together, making it difficult to remove. Eventually the rust destroys the splines if not removed regularly and greased.
 
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