Cut out a section that would normally rub on a ZRP radius rod (only one I've tried)
It now clears without any issue and still makes the rear knuckle a double sheer
Cut out a section that would normally rub on a ZRP radius rod (only one I've tried)
It now clears without any issue and still makes the rear knuckle a double sheer
Great product I installed on mine 4months ago got no more issues with my center radius arms
assault industries great people thanks to Elliot and Marcelo
Do these make it so the rear wheel won’t move toe in and tie out when you grab the tire and wiggle it ? I know even new X3 ‘s move so I wouldn’t think the holes are worn but if this makes them tight I would definitely buy some.
More than likely it's the stock rubber bushings in the radius rods causing the back and forth slop when you move the wheels.
Mine did the same thing,then I installed the ZRP rods and the Heim joints made a big difference....no more wiggle/horizontal play in the rear wheels.
Like Skullz said, but there are a few factors here. If the center out rod bolt is loose, you will get that wiggle. If you have stock radius rods, you will get the wiggle. If your center inner bolt isn't tight, you will get the wiggle. I finally said screw it and got the zrp rods and knuckles and tight as can be.
I installed these and after 100 miles it felt like the ass end wanted to come around on me...they had loosened up a bit. Cranked them down and all good now. You will know if you don’t have them and you wallow out the single shear mounting....the rear end will want to snap around as the rear toe is changing on you.
I use the ZRP radius rods and my tow stays. I also found I could get rid of the pull to the left in my steering wheel by correcting the rear alignment with the adjustable ZRP radius rods.
this might help you. But I disagree on how Assault is calling them double shear. Its really just a fancy washer. To be double shear in my eyes it would have to be welded ot affixed to the aluminum spindle.
So what is the consensus here? With the ZRP rods you don't need the "double sheer" kit or like Mega said its just like adding some extra washers? I just picked up the ZRP high clearance rods and want to fix this right. What is everyone doing with or without new rear radius rods? My center bolts needed a half of turn to tighten up when I was greasing my bearings.
Wow it seems the price of those knuckles has actually gone up quite a bit since they were introduced.
I couldn't stomach paying that much so instead I had the hole in the back of the stock knuckle bored out and pressed a chromoly sleeve in there which lets me run a 5/8" bolt. Its still single sheer but much much stronger than stock. I have a couple thousand miles on this setup and zero issues loosening up.
Where exactly on that assault bracket do the zrp rods hit? BTW I agree that its not really a double sheer setup but it should be a little better than nothing.
Honestly just get the zrp rods and use blue loctite on all three bolts on each trailing arm and you'll be fine. I just checked my middle rod bolts while doing some maintenance and they were still tight from when i put them on over 500 miles ago.
I have the assault brackets and they loosened up on me after about 100 rough miles...the ass end wanted to come around when driving straight (odd feeling). I retorqued them with an impact and they have been good for the last 300 miles. That chromoly sleeve idea ^^^^^ seems genius to me
2018 X3 XDS
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
?
Can-Am Maverick Forum
posts
715K
members
31K
Since
2012
A forum community dedicated to Can-Am Maverick owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, accessories, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!