[Andy]

This is in no way is a bash thread on Articbomb. I bouhgt his sport low harness, and had transmission error code issues with it. He immediatly sent me a new one and included a pre paid postal package to return the 1st harness in. The second harness didn't throw any error code, but was only giving me sport mode in low. Once again he promptly sent me a new harness with another sas package to return it. The 3rd harness throws error codes in both high and low gear.

Props to Articbomb on the outstanding customer service. He really is trying to get me fixed up. I was just curious if anyone else has had similar experience with the sport low mod, or if my Mav is just a freak?

 

[wickedcummins]

Don't think it's you machine sir

 

[heavysledz]

I have heard of the 13's having a few different configurations. But it appears he has tried each of the them and none of them worked.

 

[NH-Murph]

The one I got from him worked perfectly in my '13.

 

[brian68]

mine works great as well. 13 manufactured 5-13.

 

[///AIRDAM]

none of the machines are manufactured ANY different. every single machine has the same exact requirements. i build (1) kit, and it works on EVERY machine. commander, maverick, maverick max, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014. the switchless kit he is building is a great idea, believe me i thought of it a long time ago, but it is succeptible to the voltage changes of the machine way too easily. some machines have a high voltage problem, some machines will produce 13.6volts at idle and some will only produce 12.6 volts at idle. when you are manipulating a signal to make the ECU see a certain voltage signal, and your beginning voltage varies so much, your end voltage will also vary. the switchless is a good idea, but looking at the posts on here and the commander forum popping up literally daily, i would be willing to bet the switchless kit he is selling, has about a 60% failure rate. get the kit with a switch. if you dont like the switch just wire tie it up behind the dash and leave it on. you wont have the switch in the dash, and it will still work like the switchless.

i have had machines with his kit on them come thru the shop. and i see things like when you cut the lights on the dash blinks back and forth and throws E codes. of when you hit the brakes it will throw an E code. this is all because of the voltage draw on the system. when you cut lights on, it drops the voltage of the entire machine. when you take the voltage that the switchless is sending the signal down the line, and rob voltage from it as well, the computer gets confused and throws an E code. the switchless problem is how it gets its signal, and how it manipulates the voltage down the line. it is way more succeptible to the beginning voltage of the machine and since some machines voltage is so far apart from the beginning, it makes the harness not work.

 

[SickStick]

I had the switch model kit in mine and it was fine for the first couple hundred miles, the dash indicator never worked right - it would indicate N in high or low. It always had great power so I knew it was working right, but I received a CEL with trans codes one day. I took the harness out & took it to the dealer - they checked it & cleared the code. Ran it for awhile w/out sport low harness - no problems then put it back in and the CEL came back on during the first ride. I was sent another harness immediately but haven't had the time to put it in yet. Just had the dealer clear the code & change out the trans sensor and have been running it w/o sport low harness for awhile. I run High most of the time anyways but I need to try the new harness to make sure it works properly..

 

[wickedcummins]

none of the machines are manufactured ANY different. every single machine has the same exact requirements. i build (1) kit, and it works on EVERY machine. commander, maverick, maverick max, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014. the switchless kit he is building is a great idea, believe me i thought of it a long time ago, but it is succeptible to the voltage changes of the machine way too easily. some machines have a high voltage problem, some machines will produce 13.6volts at idle and some will only produce 12.6 volts at idle. when you are manipulating a signal to make the ECU see a certain voltage signal, and your beginning voltage varies so much, your end voltage will also vary. the switchless is a good idea, but looking at the posts on here and the commander forum popping up literally daily, i would be willing to bet the switchless kit he is selling, has about a 60% failure rate. get the kit with a switch. if you dont like the switch just wire tie it up behind the dash and leave it on. you wont have the switch in the dash, and it will still work like the switchless.

i have had machines with his kit on them come thru the shop. and i see things like when you cut the lights on the dash blinks back and forth and throws E codes. of when you hit the brakes it will throw an E code. this is all because of the voltage draw on the system. when you cut lights on, it drops the voltage of the entire machine. when you take the voltage that the switchless is sending the signal down the line, and rob voltage from it as well, the computer gets confused and throws an E code. the switchless problem is how it gets its signal, and how it manipulates the voltage down the line. it is way more succeptible to the beginning voltage of the machine and since some machines voltage is so far apart from the beginning, it makes the harness not work.

This is not true. Switchless has no effect on this when DONE RIGHT! My Guys Switchless Kit does care how much your voltage changes =) There is a set value the ecu sees per gear and it has a range. When its built with a Control board there is need to worry about this. My board sees voltage in and sends whats its been programmed to send. No matter what the machine is making for voltage my Chip will send back the correct voltage.

So to say Switchless fails this much is incorrect.. By saying ARTICBOMBS switchless fails whatever percent fine but Dont be putting my GUYS switchless in that group as its failure Rate Is 0. Only had one issue and it was one missed the programming setup and he took care of the guy right away.. Now everyone is tested on a machine before its shipped!

 

[Driller77]

I've heard a lot of problems with the arctic bomb sport low. But I've also heard that he will bend over backward to get things straight

 

[wickedcummins]

But yes these are all the same

 

[Schmidty]

Wicked's guy's product is great. Love sport low and he was willing to answer all my questions. Thanks again Wicked.

 

[wickedcummins]

Wicked's guy's product is great. Love sport low and he was willing to answer all my questions. Thanks again Wicked.

No problem he is glad to help

 

[///AIRDAM]

This is not true. Switchless has no effect on this when DONE RIGHT! My Guys Switchless Kit does care how much your voltage changes =) There is a set value the ecu sees per gear and it has a range. When its built with a Control board there is need to worry about this. My board sees voltage in and sends whats its been programmed to send. No matter what the machine is making for voltage my Chip will send back the correct voltage.

So to say Switchless fails this much is incorrect.. By saying ARTICBOMBS switchless fails whatever percent fine but Dont be putting my GUYS switchless in that group as its failure Rate Is 0. Only had one issue and it was one missed the programming setup and he took care of the guy right away.. Now everyone is tested on a machine before its shipped!

yeah i didn't figure it would take you long to chime in and put in a plug about "your" kit that you call your "guys" kit. i notice how you say things. i dont care who makes it. i understand that a programmed board, that is programmed to send out a certain voltage regardless of what the input is, is the way to go. so yes, not all sport mode switchless kits are made the same. BUT the one being questioned in the original post, is the one i referred to. i am glad "yours" has a -0- failure rate. i assume you are using the same boards that they are using inside the LED light bars. thats what it looks like. those boards dont care if you insert 12 volts, 24 volts ect they still have the same output. good way to think. not to say thats how you are doing it but still good to think outside the box. and if you already have things like that laying around from other projects then thats a nifty way to innovate. the only way we got here where we are today is because of invention. you guys gotta think about it, 100 years ago today we were barely flying, and had cars you had to start by hand or ran on steam. we as a society have come a LONG way in 100 years.

 

[wickedcummins]

Just didn't want people being worried about my guys product! =) Wait till cars are hovering

 

[RTB]

I have the ArcticBomb one with a switch. It took a few tries to get the right one to make it work on mine but it works well now. I have had transmission error pop up a couple times, I believe it is related to the charging system and power usage effecting the signal voltage like Airdam was saying. Not sure that it would matter if you have the Switch or Switchless. Only advantage with the switch is you can turn it off and run "stock" without any errors until your system voltage comes back to normal.

 

[heavysledz]

Yea, the voltage is not regulated very well on these things. I notice that my CVT belt temp gauge surges when my radiator fan kicks on for a second and then drops back down to normal.

 

[KRIS]

Yea, the voltage is not regulated very well on these things. I notice that my CVT belt temp gauge surges when my radiator fan kicks on for a second and then drops back down to normal.

That's the awesome thing about the one I can get for folks. It's setup to read a "Range" of voltage. Once it sees that voltage on the input side it install changes the voltage internally and sends out the voltage that we specify. There is no guess work. If it's within the range we designate it kicks the voltage that it needs back out.

 

[wickedcummins]

I have the ArcticBomb one with a switch. It took a few tries to get the right one to make it work on mine but it works well now. I have had transmission error pop up a couple times, I believe it is related to the charging system and power usage effecting the signal voltage like Airdam was saying. Not sure that it would matter if you have the Switch or Switchless. Only advantage with the switch is you can turn it off and run "stock" without any errors until your system voltage comes back to normal.

Or have my guys =) if it fails it will fail stock

 

[RTB]

Does anyone know if power is limited when you have a transmission error? I know when my harness was causing my ECU to think it was in neutral my RPM was limited. Not sure if anything happens when there is a transmission error.

 

[heavysledz]

yes it is. Depending on the error it will limit RPM or even put it into limp mode.