This is incorrect.Now you could revalve the shock to reduce the kick but you will hate your car while going through woops.
The take off for a jump. I'll try to explain this where it makes sense.Alex, what do you mean by the "face of the jump"?
Ok, now I understand what you are saying. Thanks for clearing that up for me. Actually, I never thought about this point but good to know now.The take off for a jump. I'll try to explain this where it makes sense.
So on a jump at the bottom when it starts to go up from level ground that would be the base of the jump, the top of the jump or the last place where your tires would touch before you go into the air would be the top of the jump. The area between the base and the top of the jump is what I call the face of the jump. The distance between the base and the top HAS to be longer than the wheelbase or it will buck you every time. If you can picture it, if the jump is shorter than the wheelbase, once the front tires go off they start to go down before the rear tires hit the top of the jump. It will buck you unless you have enough power to keep the front end up in the air before the rear hits and you can power through it like at very low speeds and full throttle.
We have a lot of drainage rollers out here that help with trail erosion and I've seen them at a lot of places on the east coast. Those are one of the biggest things to be careful of out here cause the dirt bikes and quads can jump them but the UTV's go end over end on them.
In some extreme cases the front rebound being too fast can cause the rear end to come up as well. Again a simple revalve on the rear shocks will greatly reduce it.