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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Another thing to mention, is that with the Maverick you're able to have it floored through the whoop de dos, which really hammers the drivetrain. I've been wondering if Can Am did not take that into consideration.
Aint not whop de dos in the SE!!! LOL I race cross country over in GA, lots of hard lefts and rights at high speed and lots of air but no whoops
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
Run it hard and see how long the inner tie rods last. The outside of my tire moves 1.5" per side with roughly 3.5 hours on it. Excessive play is an understatement at that point. It's a design flaw that they're working on fixing.

In all honestly it's not much stronger than the factory rack. You're picking up a quick steer setup and loosing the durability of the inner tie rods. The power steering is kickass but they need to work on the rack.
ARe you saying just the quick ratio?

I have one on a rhino since 08, won two cross country championships with it, had one on Teryx and sold hundreds of them and never heard of one wearing out or even hurt.

Not saying you are wrong the Mav unit, but I promise no other model is having issues.

Was talking to guy who runs Unisteer the other day, he said there was only about 40 of the mav units out right now. He mentioned a fitment issue on the Mav and that is one reason they are sending it to me. So if you want it fixed, and think it is a issue let me know. I WILL get to the bottom of it.
 

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There is a problem with the inner tie rods without a doubt and they know it. They can't handle the misalignment and they're calling it a design flaw on Can Am's part which makes zero sense because they are producing the inner rods and not using factory ones. They need to consider using a rod end like everyone else. I am a racer and I am hard on stuff as I broke the factory rack but there are a handful of GNCC guys that run that rack and had to change the inners out every race due to wear so its not just me. Also the shaft that the inners are attached to that pushes left to right has already elongated the housing and has up and down play. It's small but it was not there when it was new. I would guess it to be about .020" right now. I was told that there was nothing they could do and I would always eat up inner tie rods.

It simply can't handle it. This is my first Rackzilla and once Gear One pulls measurements off my old rack ill be making the switch.

So since you have the same thing as me....if you don't have play in them within 20hours of hard trail riding I would have to say you drive like a Grandpa to stir the parts. I know you're a good and fast driver. You'll see what I'm talking about.

Look at the gap around the ball. That's pushed all the way in.


 

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This aint the place to put it I am guessing but my xp is faster, handles better in the curves and steering effort is lots less. In time and some changes the mav might come around.

Have unisteer power steering and their quick ratio rackzilla on the way. Muzzy exhaust, Dobeck Gen 4 fuel controller and dalton clutch kit too to get me started playing.

Todd
did u watch the Baja 500 ? 2nd place maverick was stock ,

and 1st place maverick was 35 miles ahead of jagged X car ? lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
did u watch the Baja 500 ? 2nd place maverick was stock ,

and 1st place maverick was 35 miles ahead of jagged X car ? lol
You said my XP!!! LOL Mine is faster than this one and really does finishing first in a 500 mile race mean it is faster? No it means it lasted and had good drivers. Same as me winning back Oct in GA starting in lower class and outrunning even the mod class. Gotta drive man!!LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
There is a problem with the inner tie rods without a doubt and they know it. They can't handle the misalignment and they're calling it a design flaw on Can Am's part which makes zero sense because they are producing the inner rods and not using factory ones. They need to consider using a rod end like everyone else. I am a racer and I am hard on stuff as I broke the factory rack but there are a handful of GNCC guys that run that rack and had to change the inners out every race due to wear so its not just me. Also the shaft that the inners are attached to that pushes left to right has already elongated the housing and has up and down play. It's small but it was not there when it was new. I would guess it to be about .020" right now. I was told that there was nothing they could do and I would always eat up inner tie rods.

It simply can't handle it. This is my first Rackzilla and once Gear One pulls measurements off my old rack ill be making the switch.

So since you have the same thing as me....if you don't have play in them within 20hours of hard trail riding I would have to say you drive like a Grandpa to stir the parts. I know you're a good and fast driver. You'll see what I'm talking about.

Look at the gap around the ball. That's pushed all the way in.



Thanks for the heads up, so it appears from your info only the Mav is having a issue. Like I said, I will get to the bottom of it.

BTW could they be wearing from all that dirt in there?

Todd
 

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You said my XP!!! LOL Mine is faster than this one and really does finishing first in a 500 mile race mean it is faster? No it means it lasted and had good drivers. Same as me winning back Oct in GA starting in lower class and outrunning even the mod class. Gotta drive man!!LOL
do u have a stage 2 alba kit+ ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
No, I don't use no competitors junk!!! LOL

Actually mine is stock engine, muzzy pipe, dalton clutch kit, 26x9 tires all the way around and gen 4 fuel controller from dobeck plus a loose nut behind the steering wheel.

Told you man, you gotta drive!!!LOL
 

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lol nice u will luv the maverick after u get it dialed in for sure,
 

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Agreed Desertdog!!! Are society nowadays.....If you cannot get someone to agree with you completely simply insult their intelligence on the Internet. Makes you look pretty cool to.........Not really.
Our society nowadays....jump right in and think you have a clue as to whats been going on. We've been dealing with these clutch issues since the machine was introduced. Do some searches on the forum alone and theres thread after thread of our debates over these clutches. The failure rate is actually less than what it would be had most of us not been proactive and changed the primary out before it went boom and took out the CVT housing as well
 

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I would agree with most all of that. There is no service manual on the Maverick yet that I can find but I think Can Am is going to recommend new bolts for reinstallation and the word I got but outside Can Am that they were yield to torque.

If it was ok they would not be changing it and I know they are changing it for a fact just not sure when it will be on vehicles or available as a replacement.

In the end there is a issue, not sure if every one can just tighten like mentioned and fix it or not and I think this clutch was fine until the high HP was introduced to it.

So what are you guys who swapped out the clutch with other brands doing for low speed engine braking?

I have to admit I know nothing about the QSC or STM clutches only about what is coming.
There is a service manual out. Kris has one.
 

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Hunterworks, if you wanna trim all the fat and get down to the meat. The factory clutch doesnt work because the 2 halves do not lock together. They have to lock....period. If you talk to can-am, tell them that. Once they get that taken care of, then start tuning the clutch to stay in the peak HP rpm. When they do that, they will find the issues with the secondary too. Even if you take blown clutches out of the picture, belt slippage has still been a problem as well. Especially when running larger tires. They need to go back to the drawing board on the whole clutch system. The slippery washers, bolt breaking, cleaning, loc-titing and re-torquing has been tried already and proven ineffective.
 

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Hunterworks, if you wanna trim all the fat and get down to the meat. The factory clutch doesnt work because the 2 halves do not lock together. They have to lock....period. If you talk to can-am, tell them that. Once they get that taken care of, then start tuning the clutch to stay in the peak HP rpm. When they do that, they will find the issues with the secondary too. Even if you take blown clutches out of the picture, belt slippage has still been a problem as well. Especially when running larger tires. They need to go back to the drawing board on the whole clutch system. The slippery washers, bolt breaking, cleaning, loc-titing and re-torquing has been tried already and proven ineffective.
That's what I've been saying, and will continue to keep saying! They have to lock together........Period!!!!!!!!
 

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I am supposed to take my Mav out this week for a couple 70-80 mile trail rides with my boys. No sand, just medium grade trail riding. Can I trust the clutch? I just passed 250 miles/10 hrs and have not done the first service yet, the rpm's will not go over 7000 after it went past 10 hrs.
 

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There's one fella on here with 2000 miles on his stock clutch and the original belt. But then there's other people on here with broken bolts etc. etc. etc. So if I were you I would just ask myself, do I feel lucky! You should be fine though. But not going over 7000 RPMs means there's something not working right in there. But that loss of 1000 RPMs will also make it easier on the primary. So take it out and have fun. That's what you bought it for.
 

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SOMEONE PLEASE........find me a baseball bat the beat this dead horse with.
 

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There's one fella on here with 2000 miles on his stock clutch and the original belt. But then there's other people on here with broken bolts etc. etc. etc. So if I were you I would just ask myself, do I feel lucky! You should be fine though. But not going over 7000 RPMs means there's something not working right in there. But that loss of 1000 RPMs will also make it easier on the primary. So take it out and have fun. That's what you bought it for.
Yup!
 
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