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If that was my motor: I would not hesitate to disassemble the entire engine, closely inspect all intenal parts. Also measure the bore, pistons and bearing clearances to make sure they are up to OEM specifications.

You seem like a knowledgable guy when it comes to engines - what better way to become intimately familiar with your Rotax. That's were the speculation ends and the healing begins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Checked the head for warpage and it is true. I don't think I'm going any farther down and splitting the case to look at the bearings I don't thing this block has seen any miles at all. The cylinder wall look new with no scouring. Time to button it back up. Maybe I end up screwing myself but tearing it down father just doesn't pass the smell test.
 

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Checked the head for warpage and it is true. I don't think I'm going any farther down and splitting the case to look at the bearings I don't thing this block has seen any miles at all. The cylinder wall look new with no scouring. Time to button it back up. Maybe I end up screwing myself but tearing it down father just doesn't pass the smell test.
Based on what I can see I'd call it good right there. Maybe as well throw some head studs at it while you have the head off it though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Head studs? I guess I don't plan on going with higher hp did they have issues without?
 

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How do the cam journals look on top of the head? if you saw aluminum material it’s likely bearings

But Im assuming the crank has rollers? Hell Guess I will have to look deeper too
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
How do the cam journals look on top of the head? if you saw aluminum material it’s likely bearings

But Im assuming the crank has rollers? Hell Guess I will have to look deeper too
No I believe that the aluminium is from the side of the case when the timing chain went limp. You can see a grove after it chewed up the plastic guide.
268584
 
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