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About 20 years ago, I designed and built my 14' aluminum trailer from scratch.
I believe it weighs about 1000 lbs. It turned out great for my first trailer build.
It is 72" between the drive over fenders, and 93" between the rails.
It has a 5200 lb rubber torsion axle with brakes and rides super smooth with no shocks.
It has lots of ground clearance for off road situations.
It pulls perfectly straight and calm.

I love having a single axle.
When I was bringing home my first X3, I had a tire blow out, and the trailer didn't seem to notice.
Car Tire Vehicle Sky Wheel

Tire Wheel Plant Vehicle Automotive tire
 
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Looks good,
what is the ride clearance btw the tire and fender? any scrappage?
The only thing I found with torsion axles is that it has a small footprint (or length) where it mates to the trailer bed frame.
It can be reinforced of course running an extra longer beam between and the bed frame. Sadly, it was not the case with my rockwood mini (lite) RV.
Can you guess what happened to the RV's frame?
Spring axles naturally have longer spread between the mounting points, double axle (spring) has even further spread.
Agree that torsion is superior to spring (solid)axle because they are fully independent.
Can you show the underside?
 

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Sure it'll work great, but will be next to impossible to move around by hand. Just make sure to only get as long as you need, big trailers suck unless you actually need the length.
 

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Looks good,
what is the ride clearance btw the tire and fender? any scrappage?
The only thing I found with torsion axles is that it has a small footprint (or length) where it mates to the trailer bed frame.
It can be reinforced of course running an extra longer beam between and the bed frame. Sadly, it was not the case with my rockwood mini (lite) RV.
Can you guess what happened to the RV's frame?
Spring axles naturally have longer spread between the mounting points, double axle (spring) has even further spread.
Agree that torsion is superior to spring (solid)axle because they are fully independent.
Can you show the underside?
There is about 4" of fender clearance and the tire has never rubbed.
The arms are angled down so the wheel path swings back and up.

I had the axle custom made and my mounts are out as far as possible, next to the arms.
The mount spread is 72" c-c. If you mean front to rear, it hasn't been a problem.
 

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I love my Aluma 7212 with pull out ramp. It is extremely well made!
It is perfect for towing my 64" wide X3 but not much else. If I wanted to go with wider paddle tires for the dunes it will not fit. However, it fits in and out of a standard garage door so I can store it indoors.
Life is a compromise. Choose what works best for you and consider all variables.
View attachment 275448
Could you please tell me what or who makes the windshield, mirrors, and front bumper you have on you ride. thanks
 

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OK -- so just bought this one. Already regret it because of storage/parking issues. This sucker is hefty!
however, should not have any issues hauling the Max or a car.
that is more than enough trailer for your needs. good brand too
 

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I love my Aluma 7212 with pull out ramp. It is extremely well made!
It is perfect for towing my 64" wide X3 but not much else. If I wanted to go with wider paddle tires for the dunes it will not fit. However, it fits in and out of a standard garage door so I can store it indoors.
Life is a compromise. Choose what works best for you and consider all variables.
View attachment 275448
I love mine too, but make sure to keep an eye on the fender welds. Like most aluminum trailers they can crack
Mine did. Easy fix.
 

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2020 X3 X RS RR
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Has anyone added brakes to a single axle trailer?

Any good kits to look at?
I doubt your axle has the 4 hole flanges to mount the backing plates. That will add to the cost of doing it as you need to replace the axle. etrailer is great but it is a bit of work to get it done.
I added a second axle and brakes to just that axle on my little 14' trailer.
 

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I doubt your axle has the 4 hole flanges to mount the backing plates. That will add to the cost of doing it as you need to replace the axle. etrailer is great but it is a bit of work to get it done.
I added a second axle and brakes to just that axle on my little 14' trailer.
It seems to.

Does this look like a typical axle 4 hole flange that would accept brakes? Photo peaking in from the back side of the axle and wheel.

Confused about what "Brake load rating" I should be targeting.

I know what my total trailer and X3 weight together is, is it as strait forward as the package is ~2kLbs all up, get 2k brake package, or should I shoot for a higher brake weight package? I see 2.5k,3k packages.

Is there any harm in over rating the brakes and by how much becomes disadvantageous, can the controllers prohibit lockups without wheel speed sensors if they are rated 1.5X or 2X the load just fine?

Been looking for guidance on adding trailer brakes, and there really is not a lot of info out there to do it well or spec it out with reasoning. I would like to get trailer brakes without introducing problems to deal with later.

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It seems to.

Does this look like a typical axle 4 hole flange that would accept brakes? Photo peaking in from the back side of the axle and wheel.

Confused about what "Brake load rating" I should be targeting.

I know what my total trailer and X3 weight together is, is it as strait forward as the package is ~2kLbs all up, get 2k brake package, or should I shoot for a higher brake weight package? I see 2.5k,3k packages.

Is there any harm in over rating the brakes and by how much becomes disadvantageous, can the controllers prohibit lockups without wheel speed sensors if they are rated 1.5X or 2X the load just fine?

Been looking for guidance on adding trailer brakes, and there really is not a lot of info out there to do it well or spec it out with reasoning. I would like to get trailer brakes without introducing problems to deal with later.
Yes, that is the backing flange. Typically, you will do the brake drum and shoes that match the load rating of the axle, likely 10". On electric brakes you will have to change out your flat 5 wiring to the 7 pin so you can activate the brakes. To take advantage of the breakaway feature on the brakes, you will have to have a battery on the trailer. Obviously, you need a brake controller in your truck.
It's a fun project but you will need to plan it out so you get the right things without wasting time and money.
Here are most of the things you will need.

  • Electric Brake kit. Includes backing plate, shoes and drum hubs
  • 7 pin wire pig tail
  • junction box for the rewire
  • wiring harness to brakes
You can do it for less than $500 with good Dexter gear.

Just call Etrailer and talk to their support team. They can hook you up with a set up based on your current trailer.
 

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Yes, that is the backing flange. Typically, you will do the brake drum and shoes that match the load rating of the axle, likely 10". On electric brakes you will have to change out your flat 5 wiring to the 7 pin so you can activate the brakes. To take advantage of the breakaway feature on the brakes, you will have to have a battery on the trailer. Obviously, you need a brake controller in your truck.
It's a fun project but you will need to plan it out so you get the right things without wasting time and money.
Here are most of the things you will need.

  • Electric Brake kit. Includes backing plate, shoes and drum hubs
  • 7 pin wire pig tail
  • junction box for the rewire
  • wiring harness to brakes
You can do it for less than $500 with good Dexter gear.

Just call Etrailer and talk to their support team. They can hook you up with a set up based on your current trailer.
Any thoughts on controllers? Don't have wiring built in, and don't really want a mess.

Picked up one of those "curt echo" adaptors, understand its limitations, or at least I think I do, but I think I can get around having to wire though the vehicle and come up with a clean way to mount a old manual brake controller, and can move it to different vehicles easily.
 

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Any thoughts on controllers? Don't have wiring built in, and don't really want a mess.

Picked up one of those "curt echo" adaptors, understand its limitations, or at least I think I do, but I think I can get around having to wire though the vehicle and come up with a clean way to mount a old manual brake controller, and can move it to different vehicles easily.
If you have a 7 pin trailer wiring connection, it is wired for brakes. If you don't that wireless one won't work either. Adding a brake controller is easy if you have a 7 pin already.
 

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Typically, you will do the brake drum and shoes that match the load rating of the axle, likely 10".
I believe the axle is a GAWR 3500Lb ? Is this what I should size the brakes to even if the load is much less?
Or is this strictly a hardware size and compatibility issue, where brake and axle hardware matches up dimensionally being a specific rating?

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I believe the axle is a GAWR 3500Lb axle? Is this what I size the brakes to even if the load is much less?
Or is this strictly a hardware size and compatibility issue, where hardware matches up dimentionally being a specific rating?
Yup buy 3500 lb class kit. 10" diameter. Your wheels are likely 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern so get that right also.
 

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If you have a 7 pin trailer wiring connection, it is wired for brakes. If you don't that wireless one won't work either. Adding a brake controller is easy if you have a 7 pin already.
Working from a 4 pin, but I believe I only need to add 12VDC supply off the battery for the brakes, and I believe there are backup lights on the 7 pin as well, not sure if they are strictly required...

This is the adaptor I am thinking about utilizing

So the hope was that would be enough for my specific scenario, as my battery is right next to the trailer plug.

Have not been able to suss out the details with how emergency full braking would be enabled in the exact moment needed, or if that is even a feature I need to concern myself with? It is functional through a on screen interface, but doesn't seem like a practical solution seems like a dangerous joke TBH, and there is a physical BT button I can also use which I am looking into.

How often is full manual braking ever utilized in a practical sense? Is that something I need? And do not operate a trailer brake system without it? Or is it more of a nice feature ...if you ever needed it?

I think adjusting the duty cycle is reasonable though a on screen interface, but again inexperience with the topic may lead me down the wrong path.

Wish there was a dedicated place to ask detailed questions about towing hardware like this. So thankful for any feedback on the topic!
 

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Yup buy 3500 lb class kit. 10" diameter. Your wheels are likely 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern so get that right also.
Nailed it, 205/75r15 trailer tires and wheel on 5x4.5 lugs

Is there anything to be weary of when selecting a 3500Lb brake kit?

Found this kit, tempted to pick somthing similar up... Not sure what I should look to avoid, or what would make a kit more desirable long term?
Seems to come with all the mechanical components to change from hubs to electric drum brakes.

Dont see anything that specs out axle shaft diameter or width, but Im hoping that is associated with "all common" 3500Lb axles?
 
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