[bulldogs101]

ok, so after the last thread (see its all good, now im asking and considering it...lol) I do a lot of long distance mountain climbing, high altitude, rock climbing riding, and yes some dunes, some high speeds and trails. i guess a little of it all. i would say say full power riding is under 10% at full speed. trails and steep mountains is 50%. the rest is 40%.

1-so i assume the airdam is the best clutch for maverick??
2-i absolutely must HAVE engine braking as good as the stock clutch or better.. a must! some of the mountain trails i come down will give you the puckers...i dont want to touch my brakes coming down.?
3-will this clutch use the same oem belt???
4-i assume its unbolt and put new one on and done, no tuning, bolt and go?
5-what is the cost.
6-nd finally, i wont lose and low end grunt or speed or hp. in other words i everything will at least meet stock values or better??

now maybe i can get it figured out, and understand it all finally, and perhaps take the plunge when max comes out.

 

[Driller77]

Same engine breaking with the airdam, same belt, yes it is just unbolt old primary and bolt up new airdam. Cost is around 8-900$$$. If you don't stomp a stock maverick with this new clutch set up than you put it on backward. It was a night and day difference on my commander, I could actually get the front tires in the air.

 

[turbojunkie]

Driller, I've heard from others how hard Airdam's clutch engages and pulling the front tires off the ground was common on commanders.
Does the clutch engage at a higher rpm than stock? can you take off smoothly? I do a lot of rock crawling and need smooth engagement, under light throttle application.

Same engine breaking with the airdam, same belt, yes it is just unbolt old primary and bolt up new airdam. Cost is around 8-900$$$. If you don't stomp a stock maverick with this new clutch set up than you put it on backward. It was a night and day difference on my commander, I could actually get the front tires in the air.

 

[Glamisfan]

He can set it up with a high stall to pull the front end up, or a low stall for a very smooth engagement. He asked me which I prefer. I told him a smooth engagement to be easier on the drive train.

 

[Meckanik]

I wanted to add a question:

I thought I read in one of these threads that the stock secondary could be modified (spring change?) to back shift.

Is this true? It would be nice not to have to run the STM secondary.

 

[Glamisfan]

Yeah, Adam likes to put a stiffer spring in the secondary to help with back shifting.

 

[desertdog]

He can set it up with a high stall to pull the front end up, or a low stall for a very smooth engagement. He asked me which I prefer. I told him a smooth engagement to be easier on the drive train.

Keep me posted on how well your new clutch works.

 

[Glamisfan]

Keep me posted on how well your new clutch works.

Will do! When you coming out for a ride???

 

[Driller77]

Mine was set up to engage at 1600 rpm and it is a very smooth engagement. I do alot of technical riding myself but if I hammered on it you can still get the front tires off the ground.

 

[WVRidgeRider]

ok, so after the last thread (see its all good, now im asking and considering it...lol) I do a lot of long distance mountain climbing, high altitude, rock climbing riding, and yes some dunes, some high speeds and trails. i guess a little of it all. i would say say full power riding is under 10% at full speed. trails and steep mountains is 50%. the rest is 40%.

1-so i assume the airdam is the best clutch for maverick??
2-i absolutely must HAVE engine braking as good as the stock clutch or better.. a must! some of the mountain trails i come down will give you the puckers...i dont want to touch my brakes coming down.?
3-will this clutch use the same oem belt???
4-i assume its unbolt and put new one on and done, no tuning, bolt and go?
5-what is the cost.
6-nd finally, i wont lose and low end grunt or speed or hp. in other words i everything will at least meet stock values or better??

now maybe i can get it figured out, and understand it all finally, and perhaps take the plunge when max comes out.

My Opinion
You will have engine braking but if you want it to hold back with zero chance of it slipping over the one way bearing then get the secondary machined....The one way on the cvtech is smaller than stock and the belt tension is not as good....I slipped mine on first ride with no pasenger or any weight in back... It was an extreme hill but hey Adam claims E Brake will be the same

I have bought 4 Clutches from him and two have been perfect out of the gate.....This one has been a nightmare.....

Easy to put on and adjust as well, if it doesn't come perfect as most of them do... My buddies stock mav will Eat mine as of now... I have 3 full days and 100$ in a spring I didn't need as of now... Im going back to stock for the weekend because its imposible to get in touch with Adam.....85% of the time!

 

[Andy]

I wanted to add a question:

I thought I read in one of these threads that the stock secondary could be modified (spring change?) to back shift.

Is this true? It would be nice not to have to run the STM secondary.

If you run the STM primary I think you NEED the STM secondary. Thier primary has a different offset, and doesn't line up with the stock secondary...so I've read.

 

[usaguy]

I run the full stm setup after coming from a cvtech..stm setup and I wouldn't go back. Yea its more money but its the difference between a ford Mustang and a germany import. Both are fast but the import is just a class above mustang. The stm is a duners dream with so much adjustability n performance that the cvtech cant match. If you plan to mod for serious hp then the stm will handle all changes and allow u to dial ur rpms in what range makes the most power out of the hole. .in the mid..and on top. You can always sale a cvtech at a later date when n if you want that type of performance.

 

[bulldogs101]

thanks everyone