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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I put my X3 in 4WD all seems well until I put the power down. I hear a clunking noise and can feel shaking in the floor board by my feet. I can not figure out what is causing this, drive shaft seems fine and all the axles are fine.

If anyone knows what the problem may be please let me know
 

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2020 XDS RR, 2019 Sport 1000R
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I would definitely suspect the carrier bearing there. Mine just blew out and I replaced it yesterday. An easy way to diagnose and confirm is take it for a drive, and the feel if the bearing is hot to the touch along with the driveshaft being hot in that spot.
 

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Start with a new carrier bearing. It also helps to do some cleaning maintenance too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Just drove it for a mile or two, bearing isn't very warm at all. Bolt is defiantly the cause of sound. Bold is rubbed smooth on one side, hopefully I'll be able to get it off. Are there any adjustments on the shaft I can make or just replace the bearing?
 

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Just drove it for a mile or two, bearing isn't very warm at all. Bolt is defiantly the cause of sound. Bold is rubbed smooth on one side, hopefully I'll be able to get it off. Are there any adjustments on the shaft I can make or just replace the bearing?
Start with cleaning the entire area. Dirt and the carrier bearing don't mix. The bearing is probably worn, making the shaft droop a little, making the bolt rub. That's my theory.
 

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Just drove it for a mile or two, bearing isn't very warm at all. Bolt is defiantly the cause of sound. Bold is rubbed smooth on one side, hopefully I'll be able to get it off. Are there any adjustments on the shaft I can make or just replace the bearing?
It would take more than a mile or 2 to get it HOT. But even warm at that distance would be expected if its bad. But anyways, the bearing is definitely the most likely cause. Get the penatrating oil out and hit those splines and bearing the day before you remove it. Mine was an ignorant bitch to remove at 5700 miles.
 

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Bad carrier bearing?

update: think I found the problem. Watch the video and let me know what you think the solution would be.
If you look at how much of your driveline splines are showing, this indicates the shafts are pushing themselves apart. The carrier bearing insulator/rubber is pushed way back. Loosen the pinch bolt at the front driveline section and it will slide back together. Mine does this all the time, I have since replaced the front driveline with an updated part which I had to grind a groove in my rear shaft for the pinchbolt. Now the shafts cannot push apart.
 

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2020 XRC Turbo RR
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If you look at how much of your driveline splines are showing, this indicates the shafts are pushing themselves apart. The carrier bearing insulator/rubber is pushed way back. Loosen the pinch bolt at the front driveline section and it will slide back together. Mine does this all the time, I have since replaced the front driveline with an updated part which I had to grind a groove in my rear shaft for the pinchbolt. Now the shafts cannot push apart.
Two part answer:

1) The carrier bearing is a wear item and should be replaced periodically.
2) Can Am didn't use a retention grove and didn't use a 10.9 grade fastener. They used the same 8.8 or lower grade fastener in the drive shaft yoke as the front seat bolts. While you're in there replace the yoke bolt with a 10.9 grade bolt from Bel Metric. The fastener is stretching and losing torque which is why it is sliding.
2A) CanAm uses bolts labeled 10.9 that may actually be playdo.
 

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My car is a 2020 and no retention groove, the newest part number for the front most driveline indeed needs a retention groove in the rear shaft spline area. Im assuming the newest rear shaft has the retention groove, I ground one in my rear shaft to make it work. The new front shaft also has its own slip yoke with boot over it.
 

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My car is a 2020 and no retention groove, the newest part number for the front most driveline indeed needs a retention groove in the rear shaft spline area. Im assuming the newest rear shaft has the retention groove, I ground one in my rear shaft to make it work. The new front shaft also has its own slip yoke with boot over it.
Did you replace your driveshaft?
 

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The front section is the newest part number, the rear section is my original that I ground a retention groove in.
Is it the same bolt lowered in the yoke or a larger diameter bolt? ST had a video a year or two ago where they discussed reaming out the stock 20+ yoke to engage the shaft as you described.

Just changing out the OEM bolt on the 20+ cars should be sufficient to cure the problem with out notching the intermediate shaft. Although not a good a solution as what you did, which is how these drive shafts should have been all along.
 

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2021 Can Am Maverick X3 X RS Turbo RR with Smart-Shox
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Not to hijack, but is it worth replacing the carrier proactively to something better and greasable like Sandcraft? Seems like everyone winds up replacing theirs eventually
 

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Is it the same bolt lowered in the yoke or a larger diameter bolt? ST had a video a year or two ago where they discussed reaming out the stock 20+ yoke to engage the shaft as you described.

Just changing out the OEM bolt on the 20+ cars should be sufficient to cure the problem with out notching the intermediate shaft. Although not a good a solution as what you did, which is how these drive shafts should have been all along.
Same bolt so the hole is moved closer to the centerline. It didn't matter what bolt or how tight it was, greased splines or dry, I would have my shafts try to separate fairly often. This new front shaft has cured the problem.
 

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Same bolt so the hole is moved closer to the centerline. It didn't matter what bolt or how tight it was, greased splines or dry, I would have my shafts try to separate fairly often. This new front shaft has cured the problem.
The OEM bolt just stretches so it was never going to matter if you tightened it. CanAm uses the cheapest, lowest quality, fasteners it can possibly source. If you look up the part number for the driveshaft yoke you'll find it is the same part number as the seat bolts, which are not 10.9 and known to bend despite being mounted in double shear. I makes sense they would just lower the hole in the yoke so they can continue to use garbage fasteners assembled by third-world'ers.
 
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