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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
3" Square 4-LED SOLD
LIFETIME warranty
1254 Lumens
4 high intensity CREE LED s
Color Temperature: 6000K
Beam: Spot pattern
30000 hours average life
Dimension 3"x3"x3"

4.5" Round 9 LED-$80 shipped
LIFETIME warranty
1800 Lumens
9- 3w high intensity LEDS
Color Temperature: 6000K
Beam: Flood beam pattern 30 degree
30000 hours average life

Dimension 4.5" round x 2.25" deep

13.5" Double row-SOLD
LIFETIME warranty
4300 Lumens
24- 3w high intensity LEDS
Color Temperature: 6000K
Mounting Bracket: Aluminum end brackets
Beam: Flood beam pattern 60 degree
30000 hours average life

Dimensions:
13.5 inches long
3.5 inches wide
3" Tall (without mounting feet) add 2.5" for feet out mounting and 1.5" for height
Premium Rocker switch-$22
Wiring harness with relay and fuse-15$

***these are not Chinese Totron lights commonly renamed and sold***

PMs and text welcome, I can be reached at 337-254-2875.
 

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totron actually makes the best cheap light bar out there ! and there full aluminum housing the totrons
 
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Discussion Starter #5
These are not Chinese, the actual LED is made by epistar in japan, they make 3/4 of the worlds LED supply.

the house is die cast aluminum, Kris with cold blooded can vouch for quality, he has purchased a light from me.
 

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"***these are not Chinese Totron lights commonly renamed and sold***"

So what brand are they?
 

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It is my understanding that 99% of all Leds light parts are manufactured in China. They ones that are claiming to be made in America are doing the assembley of the China made parts in the USA. Please correct me if I am wrong.
 

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Apparently, they are a "no name brand" light, otherwise it would be stated. Not necessarily a bad thing, but it would be nice to know what brand the factory is making them for to have something to compare them to. If these were made to spec for say Totron, but cheaper without the name brand, that would be a good thing to know.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
these are Lifetime LED, many reviews can be found online, probably the second best LED light setups next to Rigid.
 

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I do.....I still have my 1999 Honda 400EX serial number 00032! and my 2005 Ski Doo Rev Summit X...Cars are a different story.....
 
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How many of us still have the same toy after 5 years?
I was joking getting to the point of what brand lights they are. It was asked previously and not answered other than they have a great Warranty. Who the manufacturer is would be good to know before buying.

I've got plenty old toys! but yeah if I got 5 years out of an $80 light i would be ok with it, but I still want to know who makes it!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
the maker is lifetime led, warranty is good for the light itself not tied to the original owner
 

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i got a 32" light bar off ebay for 159.00 shipped and the thing is just as good as my buddies rigid light bar. I think all light bars are about the exact same no matter who makes them to tell you the truth
 

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I'd have to disagree with you there, not all light bars are created equal! I just looked up that 32" bar to see what kind of specs it had and it "looks" like its a big bar that will produce a lot of light. Where these LED bars start to differ is the wattages of the individual LEDs. Most of the cheapie ones are loaded with 3 watt leds this one has 60 of the 3 watters to make up its 180 watt total...

180 watts / 12 volts = 15 amps of current draw!
They also state this particular bar produces 9000 lumens of light, 9000 / 60 leds = 150 lumens per led.

If you compare this to say a 10 watt led say from Vision-X, which produce 900 lumens per led it would only take a 10 led bar (17") to be producing the same amount of light as a 60 led dual row bar! The current draw on vision x's 17" bar is 8.3 amps. It ends up boiling down to getting more efficient use of your power out of less LEDs.

When you look at light bars find out how much current (in amps) they draw, because your maverick's charging system has to run those lights, and all other electronics as well as charge the battery. A 15 amp draw is not insignificant by any means, throw an amplifier in there, your stock headlights, and all the other electrical draws and pretty soon your charging system is having a very hard time keeping up with the current demand.

So no not all LEDs are created equal when it comes down to efficiently doing their job!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
They also have single row with 10W cree LED as well as single row with 5W cree too.

I have seen a Double row 10W cree setup but it gets large because of the needed lense housing to project the light.


**Update**

The 13.5" and 3" squares are sold, will update original post to reflect that. If anyone is still interested, PM me and I can see about getting you some lights.
 

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I'd have to disagree with you there, not all light bars are created equal! I just looked up that 32" bar to see what kind of specs it had and it "looks" like its a big bar that will produce a lot of light. Where these LED bars start to differ is the wattages of the individual LEDs. Most of the cheapie ones are loaded with 3 watt leds this one has 60 of the 3 watters to make up its 180 watt total...

180 watts / 12 volts = 15 amps of current draw!
They also state this particular bar produces 9000 lumens of light, 9000 / 60 leds = 150 lumens per led.

If you compare this to say a 10 watt led say from Vision-X, which produce 900 lumens per led it would only take a 10 led bar (17") to be producing the same amount of light as a 60 led dual row bar! The current draw on vision x's 17" bar is 8.3 amps. It ends up boiling down to getting more efficient use of your power out of less LEDs.

When you look at light bars find out how much current (in amps) they draw, because your maverick's charging system has to run those lights, and all other electronics as well as charge the battery. A 15 amp draw is not insignificant by any means, throw an amplifier in there, your stock headlights, and all the other electrical draws and pretty soon your charging system is having a very hard time keeping up with the current demand.

So no not all LEDs are created equal when it comes down to efficiently doing their job!
Not sure what light bar you looked up my 32 inch draws 10.2 amps and has 13,900 lumens . Next to my buddies rigid there is no difference in light coverage. For the dif in price all put a better charging system in my Mav with full battery and still be ahead . Just saying
 

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Not sure what light bar you looked up my 32 inch draws 10.2 amps and has 13,900 lumens . Next to my buddies rigid there is no difference in light coverage. For the dif in price all put a better charging system in my Mav with full battery and still be ahead . Just saying
I went to ebay and typed in 32" LED Light bar, the first result was one for $159 and that's where I got the specs.. So apparently a 32" Led light bar can vary wildly from make to make? 10.2 amps and 13,900 lumens is much better than the one I found.

So I went back and looked,
theres one for $127 that claims 18,0000 lumens out of 60 3 watt leds (180 watt)
another one for $179 that only claims 9k lumens out of 60 3 watt leds (180 watt)
one for $180 that claims 13,500 lumens out of 60 3 watt leds (180 watt)

The only thing these 32" led bars have in common is they are all using 60 3 watt leds.. Not a single one of them bothers to list the amperage draw (at least not on ebay) and I suppose they don't list it because it depends on what voltage you check it at.

The one thing they can't argue is this:
Watts = Amps x Volts

They claim 180 watts... Our 12 volt electrical systems operate at two voltages most of the time.
12.5 volts for a fully charged battery and hopefully 14.4 volts with the engine running provided our electrical system is working like it's supposed to..

So if we do math;
180 watts / 12.5 volts = 14.4 amp draw with the engine off!
180 watts / 14.4 volts = 12.5 amp draw while the engine is running.

So if your light bar states somewhere that it draws 10.2 amps, or if you measured it with an ammeter (better method) it can only produce 146.88 watts of power, so something in the spec sheet is wrong. OR it was measured at a wild voltage that isn't realistic for our applications... To get 180 watts of power out of 10.2 amps of current we would have to have a 17.64 volt electrical system!
180 watts / 10.2 amps = 17.64 volts.

The whole problem with consumer electronics is they have very lax standards as to how they go about rating their gear and often inflate their claims based upon unrealistic scenarios. This problem is very common in car/marine audio. For example, if you build yourself an amplifier, and you put it in a room and flow liquid nitrogen over it to cool it, then run 60 volts through it @ 10 amps and play a test tone...

If it plays for a half a second before overheating and frying it will have produced 600 watts... You can legally slap a sticker on the box that says "Super duper 600 watt max" amplifier and sell it to customers for $30. Your customers will buy it, and hook it up. But it wont produce 600 watts and it won't ever be efficient enough to pull 10 amps.. More than likely that amplifier in the real world will produce about 50 watts, about what is available from a "good" car stereo head unit.

It's less about what the devices can do in the real world and more about how much the manufacturer can get away with inflating the specs to sell products.

If I wasn't already headed off topic some more lets discuss bandaiding the amp draw with upgrading the electrical system....

The Oddesy PC625 is a pretty popular aftermarket battery for running accessories... Its a 17AH battery... Meaning it can sustain a 17 amp draw for one hour before it's dead, a 180 watt light bar is working hard to drain that $150 battery, and if we're running the stereo, whip lights, and god forbid the inefficient stock incandescent headlights that little battery is getting a now major workout.

The maverick boasts a 600 watt charging system.. Which consists of a stator, this stator is the heart of the electrical system. It produces AC voltage that is rectified into about 14 volts dc, the problem is the wattage varies based upon engine RPM. The only way that stator gets anywhere near 600 watts is probably about 5000-6000 rpm. At idle it's much lower, a short burst down the trail between beer stops isn't enough to put much charge back on the battery either.

If we do more math
600 watts / 14 volts = 42.85 amps that's the maximum amperage that the stator can put toward charging the battery, which is well and good, except the battery itself bottlenecks the charging process... Your battery can't accept 42 amps at once. They have a finite amount of amperage they can absorb during the charging process, thus anything over this battery dependent threshold is either dissipated as heat by the regulator/rectifier assembly or the battery itself.

So when we get down to actually taking charge off and putting it back on the battery we are limited to being able to put roughly 10-20 amps (again depending on the battery we use) back in the battery, and again that's running around at above idle speeds. If you're steadily sucking off 12-15 amps just on one light bar it's highly likely you're going to be stuck with a dead battery out on a ride.

I suppose I've gone far enough into crazy electrical guy land for this post haha.
 
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