I have one on my 23 xrs w/ss and no issues. Probably one of my best purchases👍🏻.

 

I've done 3 oil changes with mine and a no brainer. Just remember when doing the drown mode is to only do it enough to lower the oil level in the filter canister. Like 3-5 seconds max. You don't want to drain all the oil out of the pump.

 

Yeah, the video on the site made that pretty clear. Plus as he says, it allows more oil to get out of the machine. Something like 2.8gal to 3.5gal, which is kinda of spooky that it would leave that much old oil in your spendy four wheel money hole. Plus it depressurizes the oil filter. My buddy said his first blew oil everywhere.

 

Curtis Valve works as advertised- haven’t had the small drain plug out in years.

I’ll swap the just motor oil a bit early just because it’s so easy, then do the oil/filter the next time.

On the trail, it takes less than five minutes to drain and refill.

WISH it were that easy on the Mav R.

 

I bought the set this afternoon. I actually want to have my mechanic install it. I was talking to him and and he said they don't make them small enough for Can Am's. He said that when they do oil changes it's just like everyone one else says, it's messy, it sucks, etc. They power wash or carb clean the area and ship it off. And yes he did mention that skid plates never match oil pan bolt.

I sent him the link with the videos and he actually said, you get more of the oil out through the tube and not not have the filter blast oil all over you? He hadn't heard of Curtis valves or the company, so I want him to do the change, see the valve, do the after drain, and maybe pass along the good word to others.

I still haven't heard or seen anything on XRC's but I am willing to spend the money to make my Can Am easier to work on.

Cheers to Friday

 

Have you considered doing the skidplate rivnut conversion? It makes oil changes easy, and also ensures you're getting all the oil out, with no concern of losing oil pressure from drown mode. Gearbox oil change is a bit easier. Necessary for thermostat replacement, and just simply for visual inspection.

 

First I have heard of this kit, it makes sense. Do you have this and if so how long? Any issues with rock smacking the bolt?

 

Found a use for the empty water jugs - Mid-ride oil change while in Kansas with Curtis Valve.

 

Where in Kansas did you ride? I reside in Kansas.

 

Here's the full writeup: https://www.maverickforums.net/threads/how-to-skid-plate-rivnut-nutsert-conversion.135360/

It's a bit of pain to do, and more costly then the Curtis valve (the hardware, and proper Astro tool). I'm sure there a guys that say its not worth it, and the Curtis Valve does make oil changes easier. Up to you, I just wanted to throw it out there as an option as it does have future benefits.

No need to do the front plate, just the back. I'm 2 years since changing it, and have had no problems with rocks hitting the washers, but I also don't go crazy with rock crawling and bashing the skid plates. Flip side of that, is if you are hitting rocks, you'll eventually have to replace the factory plate anyways, which means doing the conversion regardless.

 

Thanks,
I am not a huge rock climber either, I just ride rocky Montana roads.
Thanks for the link

 

The Curtis valve setup is awesome. Highly recommend. The motor is all the same whether XRC XRS etc.

 

Mine works great, friends like it also.

 

I've done 3 oil changes and no issues. Holds up great and haven't lost the cover yet. Highly recommended!

 

The last thread on Curtis vales is dated. I was wondering if anyone has been using the Curtis Valve and how has it been working.
Watching the videos on their site, it seems like a no brainer.

UTV Valves | Curtis Valves

I need to call and ask if they tested them on the XRC or does anyone that has a 2023-25 XRC and used them.

Thanks

I’ve been using one on my 2018 2 years now and it is so nice . Quick drain and no mess , I also use the drown mode when doing oil change .

 

If you can fit a socket wrench in to remove the drain plug, you can use the Curtis valve

 

I run a Baldwin spin on filter and the Curtis
the 2023 and up has a crossmember that is different
and they had to make different a kit to fit them

my first oil drain without the curtis was a mess
and none of the special funnels worked because of that crossmember
I have yet to do one with it but it seems like it will be easy

 

Best money youll spend on that can am. Makes life so much easier.

 

I pushed a short clear reinforced hose on mine that extends an inch below the skid plate.
Zero mess to clean up. Only do filter every other oil change . 500 mile intervals.

 

So I have seen this number here and there in the Forums and some videos. My oil change is 1900mi, but the filter gets changed every 500?
My break in was dirty as hell, but does it need it that often? And I am all for a clean running machine

 

People with the Curtis valve, does the rubber seal cap stay on or is a hose clamp needed?

 

Rubber cap has stayed on for me for the last 2 oil change roughly 1100 miles. Through normal Wisconsin trails and going mud bogging. When you are ready to change the oil just remove the rubber cover and connect the provided hose then twist the hose to open. Really recommend it!

 

I have been swamped with house and yard work and really haven't had a chance until last night to add the Curtis valve. I did the old cut a hole in the rag and shoved a cut piece of paper towel roll up there to keep oil from going everywhere, which worked ok.

I was lucky that the drain hole was pretty dead on with the hole in the skid plate. So after I installed the Curtis valve, I did the Drain Mode but not much came out and there was some metal on the OEM magnet oil plug, but the oil looked good.

I just bought a Long Neck Metal Funnel because who puts a oil fill where Can Am does and will go through my back cargo plate. But the Curtis valve sits just short of flush with the skid plate and when I put the end cap on, it looks like this.

I am going to contact Curtis about it and or try and find a cap without the handy grab piece. I am also a little word about coming down hard in the rear if I am dropping off a rock or ledge. I am keeping the OEM plug in case

 

That doesnt look right, there shouldnt be anything hanging below the skid plate. Did you leave the drain extension on??

 

The Curtis Valve cap DOESN’T extend down through the skid plate like that - looks like you have the drain hose attached, but the drain hose would extend down even further than what is pictured, so…

…have ZERO idea what’s going on, but that AIN’T right.

Wondering if he cut the drain hose shorter, left it attached and capped it... I shouldve been more clear when I answered his question about the cap staying on.

 

I hear what you're saying.
I read the part where Curtis valves need like 1.5" of clearance. I was able to hand thread the valve back in to engine case, it was that close. When I pull the rubber protective cap off, it sits right around the top of the skid plate.
This is just the end of the rubber cap "grabby thing" that is hanging out. But it still worries me being close to rocks and other things that go thud.

This pic is inline with the with the skid plate. Its all soft rubber, but it hangs out like a wenius

 

I hear what you're saying.
I read the part where Curtis valves need like 1.5" of clearance. I was able to hand thread the valve back in to engine case, it was that close. When I pull the rubber protective cap off, it sits right around the top of the skid plate.
This is just the end of the rubber cap "grabby thing" that is hanging out. But it still worries me being close to rocks and other things that go thud.

This pic is inline with the with the skid plate. Its all soft rubber, but it hangs out like a wenius

Do you have the clear hose adapter still attached to the valve?

 

Nope. It's sitting on the oil drain pan. I will send another pick after work with the cover off.

 

Is that the transmission drain plug??? I think youre in the wrong hole...

 

Ya know what........ SH)(&)&^%^%^&%@#%@$%^&())(+)^(^&$#&%#$&$&$^&

I looked all around the bottom of the skid plate and that was the only one I saw. Watching more videos, the plug is in front of of the passenger tire. I believe you are correct, this was a single 17mm and not a single 17mm with a 10mm next to it. Videos I had watched were4-5 years old and figured they changed it. Well, you live and learn and I need to get rear diff oil.

Thanks Lowboy, I am going out to the garage to confirm my F up. I just wanted to go camping tonight through the weekend........ time for Beer.exe to be enabled

 

Ya know what........ SH)(&)&^%^%^&%@#%@$%^&())(+)^(^&$#&%#$&$&$^&

I looked all around the bottom of the skid plate and that was the only one I saw. Watching more videos, the plug is in front of of the passenger tire. I believe you are correct, this was a single 17mm and not a single 17mm with a 10mm next to it. Videos I had watched were4-5 years old and figured they changed it. Well, you live and learn and I need to get rear diff oil.

Thanks Lowboy, I am going out to the garage to confirm my F up. I just wanted to go camping tonight through the weekend........ time for Beer.exe to be enabled

LOL no sweat!

 

So you were right on Loyboy, I found the 17mm and 10mm and just bought 60 bucks in oil and it defiantly looks like the Curtis valve will be the right way to go. Plus I did a 225 mile service to my rear diff.

Ladies and gentleman, yes, I am the mayor of dumbassville. Do your home work and research what you want to do and make it happen. Now I am off to the garage to not let it win. Plus I have a story from the past few evenings that may make you shoot milk through your nose that will solidify my Mayor status because I didn't.

Oh and for those who haven't done an oil change, this notch in your oil filter cap goes towards your rear. It is for the electrical heat sync next to the housing. Most videos leave that out and is part of the story....

News to follow

 

So, I was finally able to install the Curtis valve, no leaking except for all of the spilled oil on top of my skid plates, which is considerable. So again, thanks Loyboy for pointing out what I did wrong.
I spent two evenings after work and I took a half day today to finally get things done right, which leads to my learning experience.
Day One: I looked under my ’24 XRC for the drain hole and the only one I could see was the rear diff so I drained that using a piece of paper towel as a funnel, but it only sort of worked, lots of oil on the skid plate. I then realized I need a longer flexible funnel to get to the oil in to the engine. My oil kit came with a red plastic flexible funnel that attached to a four-quart container, so it wasn’t going to work. I thought about taking the rear cargo rack off, but that was dumb. So, we put on some stuff I ordered for the cab and tried to tighten my sway bar frame mount and found I needed a narrow wrench, so we called it a night
Day Two: I picked up a two-foot flex funnel, but that was too short, I would say a three footer is best, but not sure, if anyone is going to do this, but with the help of red plastic funnel I had, I was able to get to the oil fil, so I changed out my oil filter and put the lid on wrong and did a “drain mode” again and it shot oil all over my engine, floor, and skid plate. I looked up the oil filter cap and found that the notch had to go to the rear of the car. So, I started putting oil in to my engine, basically filling it to the brim not knowing I was doing everything wrong, and nope, I didn’t check my oil level first thinking it had all drained out. I had taken the Curtis valve out of my diff as it didn’t seem right and when oil started pouring out of the filler I realized I needed to empty the oil, I was screwed. But I found an old siphon pump and spent a few hours slowly sucking the oil out of my engine and in to my drain tank, which spattered all over the garage. I finally got it to the right level not knowing I how messed up my oil change was going.
Today it was pointed out what I did wrong “Credit to Loyboy” and I did find where the engine oil plugs were, yes, the cross bar was in the way, so I bought rear diff oil, but only one quart, not 1.5qts or 37-43oz’s so I had to run down to the Napa and refilled my rear diff. I then started the pain in the ass process of draining the engine oil. I thought I had the perfect funnel for the job and I loosened the oil drain bolt so I was able to turn it by hand to drain in the funnel. But, while do so, I just let the bolt fall in to the funnel and it blocked the drain hole about ¾’s which then got all over the place again. I then pulled the second bolt getting more out and when it drained, which I let go for 20 minutes, it just kept dripping, I did a drain cycle again getting more out. I got the 10mm bolt in and torqued it and getting the Curtis valve in wasn’t as easy as Curtis leads you to believe, I then started adding oil to the machine, checking after 2qts, then 3, and then I got to a perfect 3.5qts and tightened all the sway bar bolts took it for a test drive. No leaks and oil level were perfect.

I cleaned everything up in the garage, ate dinner, and poured a few whiskeys while I sit upon my throne of Mayor of What Not To Do.

 

We all seem to learn the hard way
Put it in the memory bank and move on👍🏻

 

I carved it in the garage floor