Welcome!

sorry for the bad luck...

The fuseable link look broken in the pic. have you checked for voltage on the red wire? what does it show? have you metered on both side of the fuseable link?

If the battery is still low, you need to put it on a slow charge 1-2 amps and get the voltage up before damaging the battery anymore.

 

Welcome!

sorry for the bad luck...

The fuseable link look broken in the pic. have you checked for voltage on the red wire? what does it show? have you metered on both side of the fuseable link?

If the battery is still low, you need to put it on a slow charge 1-2 amps and get the voltage up before damaging the battery anymore.

You type faster, but yes its definitely broken and needs replaced without a doubt.

 

Your fusible link is broken between the two screws. You will need to install a new one.

 

Keep posting what you find.
You’ll get the help you need.

You can replace that fusible link with a maxi-fuse. The auto parts store should have a fuse holder and 50 amp maxi-fuse.

 

Thank you all for the quick replies. If that is all that is wrong, I am thankful. When in person, it looks like the metal is still intact. I see that dark spot in the photos. It looks worse there. I guess my eyes may be playing tricks on me.

Where can I get one of those links online? I feel so stupid. I was doing so well. I made such a stupid mistake installing LITERALLY the last screw before installed the seat! I was proud.

I have searched and searched and I can not find a pic of that Fusible link online anywhere. Is that the ”fuse“ the manual speaks of? They call it a fuse, not a link.

TIA!

 

Thank you all for the quick replies. If that is all that is wrong, I am thankful. When in person, it looks like the metal is still intact. I see that dark spot in the photos. It looks worse there. I guess my eyes may be playing tricks on me.

Where can I get one of those links online? I feel so stupid. I was doing so well. I made such a stupid mistake installing LITERALLY the last screw before installed the seat! I was proud.

I have searched and searched and I can not find a pic of that Fusible link online anywhere. Is that the ”fuse“ the manual speaks of? They call it a fuse, not a link.

TIA!

No worries.. shit happens... it seems to happen to me when I am patting myself on the back or when i'm just about finished or speaking too soon... LOL

I'm not sure they sell them separately (that I have seen). I "think" an ANL style fuse might work with the stock link (if not) replace the fuse link/block with a MAXI or ANL fuse assembly.

 

not sure on the spacing, you will need to double check... But here https://www.amazon.com/Vehicle-Marine-Audio-Video-System/dp/B081VSG3NX/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3V3YFM3ABQQ65&keywords=anl+fuse+50a&qid=1683608208&sprefix=anl+fuse+50a,aps,153&sr=8-3

Edit - 2.4" center to center

 

mini version too https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Marine-Audio-System-Electronics/dp/B081ZG7JD3/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1WKKYHJI7KPOJ&keywords=mini+anl+fuse+50+amp&qid=1683608280&sprefix=mini+anl+fuse+50amp,aps,151&sr=8-1&th=1

Edit- 1.14" center to center

 

Thanks, I will look at the fusible link again in the am, check continuity over it then hit NAPA. I am guessing there should be NO dark there in the photo on the link. It is deceiving. It looks in tact but the dark spot throws you.

I located the wire I hit. It is intact and the only damage to it looks like a poked it with a nail. It was not freak, I was DUMB. I am better than this. I am just trying to avoid 1 hour trip to dealer, leave it, hope it’s fixed In a week. I appreciate the replies. As soon as I threw the multimeter on the battery and only saw 11 volts, then 10… the machine then died. I knew I popped somthing!

I will post after tomorrows morning antics.

Thank you all.

 

Charge the battery if you haven't already... DON'T leave it low overnight unless you plan on replacing it.

looks blown to me.. check continuity or voltage on the in and out lines.

 

Should I remove to charge it? I have a jump pack, also am older 12v charger with 2a or 10a charging ability

 

Should I remove to charge it?

no you dont have to... just put it on a SLOW charge 1-2 amps max, AGM setting if your charger has the setting

 

broken

 

Thank you sir. Appreciate you.

 

Thanks, 2 Amp is now on. I should be good, I just put the multimeter on it while the charger is attached. Reading 13.4 ish while charging. Will be jumping on this in the am before I go to my shop For work. I will let the battery relax for an hour and then check it. I will be touching this before 8 am. Time to sleep!

Appreciate the help. I looked at that link again. It now appears more obvious in person it is bad. I will hit NAPA and see what they have.

When the machine is off vs running, what is the expected voltage at the battery terminals? I assuming in the 12 ish range while off, and 13.5 + while running?

Cheers

 

12.5 volts

 

Sorry to be a pest, 12.5 while the machine is off right? In all my days of wrenching, charging/running was above 13.5-14v

 

Yes 12.5 when off and 14-14.5 when on.

 

A fully charged 12v Lead based battery (not lithium) will rest around 12.7 when fully charged.. Should be around 14.4 when charging (from the car)...

When you are charging the voltage will come up in the battery.. so its maybe now 13.4 but will increase as it charges. you dont want it going much over 15V when charging as it can dry the battery out (boil it), reducing its capacity.

 

Thanks! I have been out of the game for a while, my 46 yo self just bought this machine. I have not wrenched in a while. I like doing wiring and so forth. This was just a major goof on my end!

cheers

 

Welcome! no worries.. it will come back to you... Its like riding a bike, just take your time!

 

info AGM Battery State of Charge – workshoppist.com

 

Welcome!

 

Welcome from Oregon!

 

Hey all, My local automotive Electrical repair garage, Murray Auto Electric, built me a new fusible link today. Once the old link was out of the machine, held up to the light it was CLEARLY fried. All is well, the machine is charging again. Thank you all!

 

Good news!
What's the amp rating on that fuse? Looks big enough to be a 50

 

Good to hear its figured out! Enjoy your trip, hope you guys have a good safe time!

 

I have never looked for or needed to find it but it will be on a 6 GA wire. Follow it from the battery through the center tunnel, past the terminal block and even under the dash. It WILL be on a 6 GA wire (Large).

 

Appreciate it.
After further looking into it I believe my regulator is toast.
And my mistake this is a 24 XRS.
Seems silly to have this issue, and I’m not sure if it was self induced or defective.
It has 3 hrs on it and 36 miles.

I did install some whips using the tail light harness.
A horn and a 12” light bar using separate relay harnesses tapped into power under dash.
I always do my own electrical on vehicles and I’m not new to this

I tested the output of the stator,
I get 21 Volts ac across all three terminals

I did some tests on the regulator and they all show it to be good.

But the output dc voltage isn’t there, and this is checking it directly out of the red and black leads coming out of the regulator with the regulator lead to the battery disconnected and engine running.

I should see power output at the regulator before it it goes to any fuses or fusible links.

I can submit it for a warranty claim but the part is back ordered and dealer is backed up for weeks.

I’d buy a new regulator on my own to be able to go out this weekend as planned.

Am I missing something here that any of you guys may see.
I’m frustrated at this point and can be overlooking something silly.

Anything helps
Thanks