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Belt temps run really hot with the rear tires running the right direction. About 20-30° hotter than if they are ran in reverse. Ran in reverse then seem to have the same sidhill performance, acceleration and top speed. Thought we could fix some of this with clutching but is still up in the air. Might have to run all the tires on my buddy's 2020 RC RR and see what happens.
Think I'm going to start off reverse on all fours, I don't run a temp gauge.
Going full float/helix and dune kit on the clutch.
 

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2021 XRS RR MAX
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Think I'm going to start off reverse on all fours, I don't run a temp gauge.
Going full float/helix and dune kit on the clutch.
Ya the temp gauge makes a huge difference. We went 750 miles on the stock belt and only blew it after getting these tires. We run the wbb belt now. We are on belt number six now. And just at 1050 miles. The oem belt got a flat spot right before we got the tires so we won't count that. Then the pedal commander I believe caused the next 2. Could have been the tires. After that I had the pedal commander turned off and still went thru 2 more belts fast. Both times running the tires forward. After getting the razorback temp gauge we have learned to not stop after big sand dunes, drifting or anything with lots of throttle. Go 30-50mph to cool the belt. Stopping right away after any of that can spike the belt temp 30-50°. Always seemed to have the heat on the primary when belts went.
Definitely would recommend the 300$ temp gauge over the clutch kit.
 

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Ya the temp gauge makes a huge difference. We went 750 miles on the stock belt and only blew it after getting these tires. We run the wbb belt now. We are on belt number six now. And just at 1050 miles. The oem belt got a flat spot right before we got the tires so we won't count that. Then the pedal commander I believe caused the next 2. Could have been the tires. After that I had the pedal commander turned off and still went thru 2 more belts fast. Both times running the tires forward. After getting the razorback temp gauge we have learned to not stop after big sand dunes, drifting or anything with lots of throttle. Go 30-50mph to cool the belt. Stopping right away after any of that can spike the belt temp 30-50°. Always seemed to have the heat on the primary when belts went.
Definitely would recommend the 300$ temp gauge over the clutch kit.
Are you running the full float mod?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Are you running the full float mod?
Nope just springs, adjustable weights and DR helix. The float may help from getting a groove while idling but I don't see it doing much else. Plus since finding out the belt cools down immensely faster when crusing vs coming to a stop, we cruise for a bit after hard play and then kill it when coming to a stop.
 

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Nope just springs, adjustable weights and DR helix. The float may help from getting a groove while idling but I don't see it doing much else. Plus since finding out the belt cools down immensely faster when crusing vs coming to a stop, we cruise for a bit after hard play and then kill it when coming to a stop.
There's where I believe the problem is as with me going through belts every 100-150. Stock without clutch work the alignment is perfect. When engaged at higher rpm is when it goes out of alignment, therefore building heat. I've heard of many high hp, heavy tire heavy paddled cars getting good mileage out of a belt with the full float. The clutch stays aligned through all rpm ranges.

Also have you data logged to see how your clutch is performing overall for shift out?
Here is my stock, you can see the comparison with throttle position.
Data log Clutch.jpg
Belt alignment.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I'm assuming you as are data logging thru a dynojet tuner or a maptuner. But I don't believe they have anything for my car as of yet. It is a 2021 RR and they is still no tune as well.
If not how are you going about getting the graphs for your clutch?
They may be a lot of benefit to getting the float mod with high power.
But I think just with the temp gauge a lot of us would learn a lot about belt life. You would be surprised how hot a belt can get in a very short amount of time. And how easy you can cool it down just by not stopping right away.
 

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This is merely from lack of power. If the power was there it would be able to achieve a higher to speed than stock as this increases drive ratio
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Did some clutch cleaning out and the 500 mile service kit. The orings were melted. And the thrust washer on the backside of the roller bearing was paper thin in spots.
Also 2 arms of the spider had burrs on the from the weights I am assuming. I shaved them off with a razor knife. The picture in this post is the burr next to the primary roller. Could I be getting a weight hanging up while it is opening up. Is this caused by bad rings?

In some of the pics above I am wondering if the sheave needs pressed in more so that it doesn't wear the inside thrust washer faster because it has 2 ridges, not one surface.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Also installed kwi primary bolt and torqued to 110. Noticed after removing the primary a few times that the primary sheaves had more from where I had them set. So went for the beefier bolt
The primary springs that are in the picture all seem to be way shorter than when installed and both KWI ones seem bent quite a bit more than the stock black spring.
While I had it apart I also installed the gboost extreme rollers. Nothing seemed wrong with the stock ones. So should have some spares.
 
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