[CharleyTX]

Was motoring down the trail tried to climb a mild hill when felt like the clutch/belt is slipping, basically the engine was revving higher than normal and the buggy did not move as usual. Made it back home. Removed the CVT cover and found the secondary clutch's small plastic bushing half broken off and laying at the bottom of the clutch case. See pic. Found the other half still in clutch housing, but noticed the other two completely missing. Where did they go?
What parts or tools I need to fix this? Is this a common problem?
The buggy has 2000 miles. zero problems until now.
Thanks

 

[horizon210]

Need secondary rollers. Checking over my neighbors 2 Ski-doos, both machines had no rollers at all yet didn't really have any symptoms that anything was wrong. The roller pins and helix faces didn't really show any wear either. I've never had an issue with these but replaced them on my sled as preventative maintenance. Will probably do the same on he X3 this spring since I'm at the same mileage as you.

 

[ROLLOVERROB]

Go to KWI Clutching website and order the tool kit and a set of rollers. You can pull it apart and replace them yourself very easily.

 

[JDBPFLYER]

Your secondary rollers will need to be replaced. There are lots to choose from that are considered upgrades from a few manufacturers. A careful inspection of the helix should be done as well for excessive wear since the rollers failed. You will need the tool to pull the pins out and use some heat to get them out.

 

[HPnMORE4J]

Yup, everything thing above is correct.

Some of them may have spit out of the exit port of the clutch housing.

 

[MO_Hacker]

You could hit up @Earlt.peeples too, he sells the rollers and tools.

 

[CharleyTX]

Thanks all for the replies.
I watched some youtube videos, it should be easy to replace.
KWI has a pin removal tool that is a slide hammer type which I already have vs. some bolt and nut type pullers on amazon. I guess both would work fine.
Amazon has Gboost extreme duty kind rollers. Amazon is quick shipping, it would get me back on the trail.

Amazon.com: Can Am X3 Maverick Sport Defender Extreme G-Boost Driven Clutch Rhino Roller Kit 3 Pack : Automotive

Buy Can Am X3 Maverick Sport Defender Extreme G-Boost Driven Clutch Rhino Roller Kit 3 Pack: Automotive - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

DO these roller get any lube on the pin. small lithium grease, or machine oil?
Extreme Rhino Roller Kit 3 Pack Driven Clutch Upgrade

Built to withstand the harshest environments and extreme shock-load. These ARE ther world's best secondary rollers on market.
Massive amounts of Strength coming in at 16,000 psi of Tensile Strength
Extreme dimesional stability using tighter tolerances on the CNC Machine compared to OEM
Enhanced compressive strength and stiffness, inherently good wear and abrasion resistance
Excellent fatigue, stress crack, hydrolysis, and chemical resistance
Continuous service temperature of 500F
Melting temp creeping upon 700F mark
Made in USA
------------

thanks again

 

[skidoochris]

your helix is destroyed from the broken rollers
the helix must look like new or you will ruin the new rollers
I also recommend a new spring, yours is probably sacked out, (got weak)
now is the time to make run like new again

 

[Earlt.peeples]

By the looks of the loose belt i would say a piece of roller is jammed in the secondary holding it open. good chance helix is fine.
I have lifetime warranty rollers tools in stock to get them changed. also install video is on the website for 2 and 3 roller secondarys.
Secondary Rollers - Lifetime Warranty - Cubic Dollar Off...

Can-am Secondary Rollers

Rollers have a Lifetime Warranty Replace the brittle OEM rollers before it's too late. Some of the Strongest Secondary rollers you can get. Made from aerospace materials and machined too much higher tolerances than stock rollers. Safe continuous operating temperature over 500 K Tensile...

cubicdollaroffroad.ca

 

[Sublimeshooter]

Go to KWI Clutching website and order the tool kit and a set of rollers. You can pull it apart and replace them yourself very easily. View attachment 290036 View attachment 290037

I like this style tool better than the slide hammer for the pins.

 

[JDBPFLYER]

That is the tool I used and with a little heat on removal it works great. I don’t particularly like the slide hammer style as it can be held on an angle as you use the tool and has the potential to break the threaded piece off in the pin. Just my experience.

 

[CharleyTX]

thanks you all for the help.

 

[rotarypower101]

Is there any reason Not to use the composite fiber rollers and never think about this issue again?

Those essentially cannot fail in the way the OEM rollers fail?
Shame that is not the standard roller supplied so this is not such a prolific problem, even new rollers are said to often have cracks in them from careless assembly.

 

[CharleyTX]

update: got the rollers installed last night.
from the start-
attempting to use the belt removal tool, it would not budge, it did not move or spread the pullies apart. Fortunately, by removing the center bolt I was able to get the clutch assembly on the bench.
Because only one roller (half) was holding it the clutch was crocked or misaligned and was binding on the center slider. Similarly like when someone tries to install a bearing into a housing and it goes in crocked.
sprayed some WD 40 and gently tapped with a plastic mallet it popped and the spring forced the cone halves together. It needs to be in this position otherwise installing the new rollers is not possible.
The srcews that secure the pins are torx #20, considering that my bit set had bits going by 15s... 15, 25, 35. lol... I found a #20.
The bolt-type pin removal is a must. slide hammer would be a bad idea, the pins were tight.
There are marks- slight indentations on the helix surface from the metal pins making contact with it. Crossing my fingers that this is ok.
Some youtube shows videos hammering the pins back in with the removal tools bolt in place. Strongly advise against this.
The removal tool bolt is a 4mm screw, it is small. I would recommend putting as much treaded portion inside the pin as possible to prevent stripping the treads. Also, align the removal tool straight, so it does not try to pull off to the side slightly or crocked. If that small screw strips or breaks, it's game over. those pins are not coming out.
The same goes for hammering them back in, do not use the removal tool's screw, hammering on the end of the puller bolt. best to buy a cheap brass punch set at harborfreight.
After all was put back together, the OEM belt removal tool worked the clutch halves just fine.
center bolt torques is 57ft/lb.
I would recommend checking on these rollers frequently. It is easy to pop the clutch cover for a quick look.

 

[jknapier]

I would have replaced the helix, you might find that indentation shortens the new roller life. Hell, if you pay the freight, you can have my stock one. I put a different cut helix in mine.

 

[HPnMORE4J]

Geez, yeah, I would have replaced the helix, or if they were slight indents maybe smooth them out.
Otherwise those rollers are going to take a beating.
They need a very smooth surface to work properly and keep life in them.

 

[CharleyTX]

Geez, yeah, I would have replaced the helix, or if they were slight indents maybe smooth them out.
Otherwise those rollers are going to take a beating.
They need a very smooth surface to work properly and keep life in them.

the indentation is inward very small. the only way to smooth it out is to sand it down. or weld back up (weld is a no).
I will only be driving it locally for a couple of months. I will keep a very close eye it.

 

[CharleyTX]

I would have replaced the helix, you might find that indentation shortens the new roller life. Hell, if you pay the freight, you can have my stock one. I put a different cut helix in mine.

Sent you a reply. thanks