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Funny I suggested this to the admin that any member should be allowed to do this for threads they create so they can delete non relevant posts to their thread. Actually I told them they should at least allow thus option for supporting members.

It would make reading threads more to the point and sift out the stuff most readers would rather not waste their time reading through IMHO.
 

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Ok here are the hard numbers:

Baseline - STOCK CVT NO BLOWER FAN IN LINE AT ALL
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RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%
IDLE ---- 0 ------- 100%
2000 ---- 53 ------ 100%
3000 ---- 82 ------ 100%
4000 ---- 100 ----- 100%
5000 ---- 163 ----- 100%
6000 ---- 227 ----- 100%
7000 ---- 237 ----- 100%

STOCK CVT WITH RULE 3" BLOWER MOUNTED ON INLET TUBE BUT WITH BLOWER OFF
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RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%
IDLE ---- 0 ------- 100% (blower fan not moving)
2000 ---- 53 ------ 100% (blower fan still not moving)
3000 ---- 77 ------ 94% (blower fan started moving)
4000 ---- 97 ------ 97%
5000 ---- 103 ----- 63%
6000 ---- 139 ----- 61%
7000 ---- 159 ----- 67%

STOCK CVT WITH RULE 3" BLOWER MOUNTED ON INLET TUBE BUT WITH BLOWER ON
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RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%
IDLE ---- 65 ------ ∞
2000 ---- 97 ------ 183%
3000 ---- 117 ----- 142%
4000 ---- 125 ----- 125%
5000 ---- 201 ----- 123%
6000 ---- 230 ----- 101%
7000 ---- 243 ----- 102% The maximum CFM's are directly proportional to the size of the intake hose and exhaust hose. The blower allows for more CFM's when RPM's are low. Reference the charts above. End results are more cfm's equals cooler temps. If one were to create a larger inlet and multiple outlets the blower would exceed the engines cooling efficiency and give even better results. But any improvement is good.
 

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so I wonder what these numbers look like on a 2014 with the second air inlet?
 

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so I wonder what these numbers look like on a 2014 with the second air inlet?
I believe they will not change much until a second outlet is used. Physics dictates you can only blow in what can get out without pressurizing the area. Volume flow is relative to the size of inlet and pressure applied, like turbo charging the engine. When you compress air it heats up just opposite of desired results. If a second inlet with a blower and a second outlet able to handle the increased volume would be added results would definitly lower housing and belt temps.. Who ever done these tests had some nice testing equipment, not the average garage tools.
 

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that makes sense.....you would need to install a second blower to pull air out of the exhaust most likely in the current configuration...
 

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I don't think a second blower is really needed with aftermarket clutches. The stock has a natural tendency to slip creating heat. The aftermarket clutches grip the belt better right? Of course maybe your riding style is a factor but I am talking in theory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I keep hearing that the aftermarket primaries grip the belt better. Personally I don't believe it. The two ways that the stock one can slip that I can see is if the outer half of the primary slips, or the secondary doesn't backshift enough or very well and that makes the belt slipped. I think the later is what happens to most and that's where the excessive heat comes from.
 

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The 2013's have one CVT inlet and two outlets. The 2014 have two inlets and two outlets.
Well it seems interesting to me that BRP introduced a second inlet rather than a inline blower which I remember BRP offered to some of the racers. I would think that an off the shelf inline blower would have cost less than all the new parts they manufactured to allow for the second inlet.
 

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I keep hearing that the aftermarket primaries grip the belt better. Personally I don't believe it. The two ways that the stock one can slip that I can see is if the outer half of the primary slips, or the secondary doesn't backshift enough or very well and that makes the belt slipped. I think the later is what happens to most and that's where the excessive heat comes from.
The aftermarket clutches all have smaller bearings so they all start off in a lower gear ratio than the OEM primary. Kris, and I also think Adam both say that the stock primary doesn't grip very tight off of idle whereas the aftermarket clutches do if set up properly. That coupled with the crappy back shifting puts the clutches in the wrong gear ratio putting more load on the belt which translates into heat.....So I do think a stock primary with an STM secondary that is set up correctly can run without generating any more heat than an aftermarket setup (if setup up correctly).
 

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Has anybody wrapped the front header and seen a difference in temperature? Auto part Vehicle Engine Car Automotive exterior
Also, I have the 2014 - March build but it only has one intake.
 

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I did notice a drop in temperature by hand feeling the plastic. I wish I would have used my laser temp gun to test it before I wrapped my exhaust but didn't think about it until after I was done so I don't know exact figures.
 

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yes, a pretty big drop in temps and your clutches will thank you as well......I wished I had my CVT temp gauge installed before I wrapped my headers so i could see how much it actually helped the clutches.......
 

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Here's a little test I did to see how accurate the "water" temp gauge could measure HOT air. I took a hair dryer and got a reading on the digital thermometer, it fluctuated from 168-200 degrees. (I think the hair dryer fluctuates in temperature as a safety feature?) Anyhoo, I then tested the gauge and had a steady 173 degrees. So, I think this will be accurate enough for what we're trying to do with it. Question is, where the best place to mount the probe?????

Hand Finger Technology Electronic device Pedometer Gauge Measuring instrument Tachometer Speedometer Tool
 

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yea, for what we are doing, it is accurate enough....here is where I mounted my gauge and probe....

Auto part Fuel line Tire Brake Automotive fuel system Vehicle Car Steering wheel Center console Gauge
 

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Best place would be the primary clutch exhaust outlet tube just above the clutch cover IMHO. Very low risk of probe damage if belt explodes in your clutch cover.
 
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