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I wouldn't argue one way or the other but I question the logic behind using a water temp guage to measure air temp. A mechanical water temp guage will not give a true reading in the water jacket of a car when no water is present so I fail to see how a water temp guage can give a true reading in a clutch housing where no water is present. I'm not the sharpest tack in the box so can somebody please explain this to me.
Awesome idea Glamisfan! And I'm pretty sure a temp sensor is a temp sensor no matter what your measuring. And the fact that he saw fluctuations in the temps proves this, I agree with Mearsman, may not be spot on but at least you can see when it's getting super hot.
 

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Yup, the probe is just sandwiched between the rubber coupling and the plastic tube. And the one time that I saw 210° we were doing 60 mph through the big bowls. So that's about a pretty good load on it I'd say. And the temps drop surprisingly fast when you start cruising.
210* is fairly warm, but not to the point of blowing a belt. The OEM Mav belt is rated at well over 300* so I've been told. My question though on the temp gauge is this. How close to actual belt temp is the ambient air temp inside the cover? I know my belt temps (checked with a infared thermometor) were 164 in the dunes, and 190+ after 4 back to back pulls on Olds on the steepest part, but the clutch itself was only 124*. Just curious how close the gauge (any gauge for that matter) will read to actual belt temps. How much effect do the engine temp/exhaust temps have if any, and wouldn't it take a higher belt temp to get the air to that high of a reading? Just wondering... (I got too much time on my hands lately).

EDIT: never mind....
 

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The only accurate way to get a true belt temp would be a sophisticated integrated infrared gauge somehow mounted to aim at the belt contact surface and give you an instantaneous reading of the belt temp. What we are measuring is heated air that is coming primarily off of the clutches. So although the temperatures are not an exact indication of the actual belt temps, they are relative to what is going on inside of the CVT. All I can say is I haven't had any belt issues (YET!) and I owe that in part to having a gauge because I have gotten my belt pretty warm a time or too and used the gauge to alert me of this. I would then take it easy for a bit to cool them back down which doesn't take too long. The other thing it really highlighted was that the temps actually increase immediately after shutting the vehicle off. So I have made it a common practice to either let it idle or drive it around under a light load to cool it down before shutting it off. I thin that alone would prevent quite a lot of potential belt failures in itself. Based on my experiences, I am comfortable riding it all day long with readings of 180* or so. If I hit 200-210* on the gauge, I will try to cool it down a bit before thrashing on it again......so far so good. Outside air temp has a huge impact on the readings you get. I can ride under the same exact conditions and location but with the temps above 80* outside, the belt temps heat up much quicker than say when it is in the 50's. I can ride all day long with temps in the 50's and below and never see the belt temps even reach 160* on the gauge.....
 

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That being said, don't you think the ambient temp is giving you a far less accurate reading? I mean if you thrash on it at 50* ambient the same as at 80* ambient, don't you think the actual belt temp would be close to the same? (playing devil's advocate here)
 

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yes and no because you have much cooler air been pumped in to keep the clutch surfaces cooler which in turn will keep the belt cooler. The clutches will act like a heat sink for the belt so the cooler you can keep the clutches, the cooler the belt will also be. Granted, if your belt is slipping, it will create a lot of heat very quickly and you may not notice it on the gauge but if your clutches are set up properly (at least aftermarket clutches) they should not be slipping.
 

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Let me ask this what is the difference between and egt probe (exhaust gas temp) and the one alba and glamisfan are using. Cause they look the same to me. I have an koso egt on my sled and its just a probe in the y pipe close to the exhaust ports to get the most acurate reading. I wonder if there is a diff if maybe we should be using that style instead of the water temp one.
 

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Interesting thought.
 

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I went on kosonorthamerica.com and looked at there sled guages and found that the egt probes when hooked up only read from 250f to 2100f. So there must be some kind of resistance reading or something cause they do have two types of water temp probes one reads to 240 and then one reads up into the mid 300 degree range. So something to think about. I am going to call there tech support line tomorrow and see If I can come up with anything. Also they do sell a digital ambient air temp gauge also a digital air density gauge.
 

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Let me ask this what is the difference between and egt probe (exhaust gas temp) and the one alba and glamisfan are using. Cause they look the same to me. I have an koso egt on my sled and its just a probe in the y pipe close to the exhaust ports to get the most acurate reading. I wonder if there is a diff if maybe we should be using that style instead of the water temp one.
An EGT probe is a fast acting thermocouple probe (K-factor) and meant for higher temperatures. They will work but are more accurate at temps above 500* but are probably still more accurate than the probe that Alba is using. You can buy them for lower temperatures found in applications such as the food industry but you need to ensure it is the correct thermocouple type of the gauge you are going to run. The one in the Alba kit looks identical to a water temp sensor so it is going to be slower reacting than an EGT RTD probe.

If you really want a super accurate one, I believe Koso, Digitron or EGT (Exhaust gas Technologies) sells them but they aren't cheap....but again, since you are really only measuring the temperature of the surrounding air and not the actual belt temp itself, how accurate does it need to be as long as it is consistent with it's readings.
 
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Good info heavy was answer i was looking for.
 

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Normally if u excpect averge heat will be 100deg u want a gauge that runs 0 to 200deg....(example)..oil/water/air as long is the senser is brass and has mecury in it it will read the temp.... I bought an auto meter diff gauge 70$.. it starts at 100deg i wanted something lower but it works good..i put my senser in the cvt housing 1 in away from the belt behind the secoundary. u were saying that yours cools down pretty quick ..mine doesnt.. the problem where u put yours is fresh air hits that pipe when your running at hi speed.I put a cvt fan on to blow in the cvt not impressed..Iam gonna try moveing it to suck out the hot air now...so where i have my senser its telling me i wasted money on a fan... by the way normal use it stays around 125deg
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
I don't think a cvt blower is a waste.





Some more info. Thanks four4all for this info. not sure what machine this is off of but i think articcat. i would think they would all be similiar.

Ok here are the hard numbers:

Baseline - STOCK CVT NO BLOWER FAN IN LINE AT ALL
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%
IDLE ---- 0 ------- 100%
2000 ---- 53 ------ 100%
3000 ---- 82 ------ 100%
4000 ---- 100 ----- 100%
5000 ---- 163 ----- 100%
6000 ---- 227 ----- 100%
7000 ---- 237 ----- 100%

STOCK CVT WITH RULE 3" BLOWER MOUNTED ON INLET TUBE BUT WITH BLOWER OFF
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~

RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%
IDLE ---- 0 ------- 100% (blower fan not moving)
2000 ---- 53 ------ 100% (blower fan still not moving)
3000 ---- 77 ------ 94% (blower fan started moving)
4000 ---- 97 ------ 97%
5000 ---- 103 ----- 63%
6000 ---- 139 ----- 61%
7000 ---- 159 ----- 67%

STOCK CVT WITH RULE 3" BLOWER MOUNTED ON INLET TUBE BUT WITH BLOWER ON
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~

RPM ----- CFM --- +/-%
IDLE ---- 65 ------ ∞
2000 ---- 97 ------ 183%
3000 ---- 117 ----- 142%
4000 ---- 125 ----- 125%
5000 ---- 201 ----- 123%
6000 ---- 230 ----- 101%
7000 ---- 243 ----- 102%

Conclusions:

1) The in line mounted blower used to help cool the CVT should NEVER be left off
is is absolutely choking the airflow, so either run it anytime the machine is
running or do not bother installing it.

2) The 3" inline Rule blower never inhibits airflow at any point, but up higher
it is maxed out. The blower is rated at 135 cfm so now I would recommend at
least the 4" blower which is rated at 235 cfm. I think the 4" blower would make
a big impact probably achieving double airflow of stock at least up to 4000
maybe 5000 rpm and likely raising the airflow at 6000 and 7000 rpm as well.

3) I think the ultimate setup would be an inlet and outlet blower combined with
taking in air from a cool source.

4) If there were more bends in the inlet and outlet the added blower will show
more of an improvement than this test reflects because the stock CVT will be
flowing far less with more bends, so even the 3" blower would have a much more
pronounced impact.
 

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More CC's would be great, but I think we're going to be capped to 1000cc for some time to come. Now if they will just do an inline 4 cylinder 1000cc we will be talking some serious power!
Hey thanks for a great idea I'm ordering mine later..
Hopefully this don't get you banned for not being a supporting vendor.because I've noticed if you find something cheaper and better and posted on this form you get yourself banned...I'm just saying..I think you should be able to post and promote a quality product..
 

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It's not dead on accurate but it gives you a warning to pull your head out of your ass and your foot off of the gas pedal
I've ignored everything else in life telling me that I'm not sure a gauge is gonna help me lmao...good find though
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Hey thanks for a great idea I'm ordering mine later..
Hopefully this don't get you banned for not being a supporting vendor.because I've noticed if you find something cheaper and better and posted on this form you get yourself banned...I'm just saying..I think you should be able to post and promote a quality product..
I'm not selling anything so this should okay. But, I did mention this $18 gauge in the Alba thread and that post it got deleted. So we just have to pay attention more and not post stuff like this in a supporting vendors thread. You always have to start your own thread or talk about it in a regular Joe's thread.
 

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I'm not selling anything so this should okay. But, I did mention this $18 gauge in the Alba thread and that post it got deleted. So we just have to pay attention more and not post stuff like this in a supporting vendors thread. You always have to start your own thread or talk about it in a regular Joe's thread.
Good point Glamisfan. I never thought about posting something cheaper on a vendors thread. I can understand why an admin would delete such a post. I think it's really great when members find cheaper avenues for similar quality product and let others know about it.
 
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