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Discussion Starter #1
Just got mine back from the dealer for the upgrade and I am now ready to do my 10HR service myself, any helpful hints?

1- CARTRIDGE OF ROYAL PURPLE GREASE
3- BOTTLES OF 5W-40 ROYAL PURPLE OIL
2- BOTTLE OF 75W-90 ROYAL PURPLE GEAR OIL
1- BOTTLE OF 75W-140 ROYAL PURPLE GEAR OIL
1- K&N OIL FILTER
1- OIL FILTER O-RING
1- DRAIN PLUG SEAL
10hr Service.jpg
 

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I think the owners manual says to replace the seals on the differential drain plugs but I reused mine. I think you can get one more use out of them. I will be paying attention though to see if they leak again.
 

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I know the owners manual says 90 in diffs but I talked with my service guy and I was told to run 140 in the gear box and the rear diff ,and 90 in the front. Capacity is small like half a quart and they take the blunt if the work.. Just a FYI . It made sense to me. Get some tungsten disulfide from artic bomb on eBay , Great stuff for the diffs and gear box .
 

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Paid for my 10 hr service today while they were doing my recall . 493 , ill be doing my own next time. I arrived home to find my skid plate covered in diff oil, and trailer covered. Not Happy
 

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Paid for my 10 hr service today while they were doing my recall . 493 , ill be doing my own next time. I arrived home to find my skid plate covered in diff oil, and trailer covered. Not Happy
after all of the stories of dealers ripping us off you still had them do it for $500? why?
 

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I wanted a record of first service, didn't expectt diff oil everywhere. They also said my rear wheel was outa alignment. Anybody else have to line up rear wheel?
 

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I can understand why Bama had the dealer do the first service but the flip side of oil all over your skid plate is exactly why I didn't have the dealer do my 10 hr service. You can't trust them to do a good job if they actually did it. I actually took my skid plate off to do the oil changes because I was curious where the oil actually drained plus I wanted to do a more thorough inspection of my maverick. I'm glad I did. I found the engine screen not bolted properly. I also notice that the transmission gear oil does not drain straight through the skid hole so oil will get on your skid plate.
 

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ridenow is the absolute worse rip off of them all. one time charged us 590 for a Yamaha waverunner standard service, claimed a big chunk of it was air filter, in fact they did not change it. I had marked it, that was 6 years ago, never been to a dealership again, oh ya, tons of oil all over bottom of my hull to. I have since done all my own services and much happier knowing how and where and what got done.
 

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I thought about it last nite and I think I need to check all my fluids myself this thing dumped a good bit of fluid out. After I left the dealership.
 

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image.jpg it's quit dripping but the skid is coated . Maybe they just spilled it everywhere and it's not leaking.
 

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So you adjusted your valves?
Adjusting the valves is not hard at all. There is even a you tube video on how to do it. I checked the video against what the service manual I have says and both are the same. The hardest part of the valve adjustment is you have to take most of the interior panels off. This is probably the bulk of the labor on the 10 hr service.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
My 10hr service including adjusting valves is done now for the verdict it is not hard to do it just takes a long time. To start with I removed all engine plastic and both skid plates. Couple of things you’re going to get oil everyway so be prepared for that, also there are some special tools you will need to do the job. First you will need a stubby 14mm allen socket; I got mine from snap on $18. Second you are going to need two other allen wrenches a 5mm and a not so common 4.5mm, also an angled flat head screwdriver or a very very short stubby one. And last but not necessary is plastic rivet pliers however well worth the $8 at harbor freight along with your basic metric hand tools your all set. IMG_3913.jpg
 

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Did mine yesterday, had two intakes on the number one cylinder around .002 readjusted to .004. The exhaust was also a little tight @ .005 I reset them at .006. The number 2 hole was fine. As hard as it was to get to most of the items (greasing u-joints), I bet the flunky at the dealer would have just skipped them and moved on...feel much better I did it myself.
Gear box and rear diff oil was pretty dirty...front diff was not that bad but glad I changed it.

I had about 23 hours on it when I did it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Did you see the second grease zerk on the front drive shaft right in front of the engine, There is three total on the front shaft, right behind the u-joint is a hidden one with a rubber boot covering it I missed it at first. Oh and also they recommend you clean the vehicle speed sensor mine was really dirty, so don't forget that.
 

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Another tip. When you drain the gearbox oil is a good time to clean the vehicle speed sensor. If you wait till later and fill the gearbox with oil, you're going to have some oil leaking out the speed sensor hole.
 
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