Can-Am Maverick Forum banner
1 - 20 of 78 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
998 Posts
I think they wipe some excess grease off the clutch, check valve clearance, change all fluids. I may be missing something but this is what I gathered up over researching a little.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
806 Posts
You definitely need to do it. My diff fluids were nasty! And the gearbox wasn't very clean either.
Did you do ur own or did you take it to the stealer?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
707 Posts
I took mine to the dealership in Ft. Smith Ar and all they changed was the crank case oil. They did go in and change those bolts in the clutch with the slippery washers. I thought they changed everything but they said 10 hour service is just crankcase oil.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
468 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I took mine to the dealership in Ft. Smith Ar and all they changed was the crank case oil. They did go in and change those bolts in the clutch with the slippery washers. I thought they changed everything but they said 10 hour service is just crankcase oil.
No valve adjustment then I guess ?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
3,127 Posts
The whole process is explained very well in the manual. It tells you the Can Am fluids to use, and says if the Can Am fluid is not available, then it gives you the suggested alternative oils. I went to Pep Boys with a list of the fluids needed, and found everything.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
absolutely do it yourself and you will save enough money doing it yourself to pay for your gas all year. simple, change ALL FLUIDS, i dont care what the dealer tells you or the manual. CHANGE ALL FLUIDS, pump 3 pumps of grease in each zerk, your done. end of it. cost less than 100, saved 3-500. did a better job and you know your machine now, and dont have to wonder if the delaership did it or not, some charge you and dont even do it. get most of your oils at pep boy sor auto zone, as stated in above posts, book tells you what to use if not using canam brand, i used the mobil brand. book also tells you how to remove code for mainteance. search online and find out to.
consider strongly getting a mr. rpm oil filter adapter, allows you to spin on/off the oil filter ( once you change that mess you will know why i suggest it) uses a better filter, the filter cost 60% less than a oem filter, does better job, screws on/off like an auto filter and can be bought at any napa store or online.

fluid changes is front and rear gear box, tranny and engine oil. torque of the oil filter cover plate is 89 INCH POUNDS, dont go over that.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
468 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
E
absolutely do it yourself and you will save enough money doing it yourself to pay for your gas all year. simple, change ALL FLUIDS, i dont care what the dealer tells you or the manual. CHANGE ALL FLUIDS, pump 3 pumps of grease in each zerk, your done. end of it. cost less than 100, saved 3-500. did a better job and you know your machine now, and dont have to wonder if the delaership did it or not, some charge you and dont even do it. get most of your oils at pep boy sor auto zone, as stated in above posts, book tells you what to use if not using canam brand, i used the mobil brand. book also tells you how to remove code for mainteance. search online and find out to.
consider strongly getting a mr. rpm oil filter adapter, allows you to spin on/off the oil filter ( once you change that mess you will know why i suggest it) uses a better filter, the filter cost 60% less than a oem filter, does better job, screws on/off like an auto filter and can be bought at any napa store or online.

fluid changes is front and rear gear box, tranny and engine oil. torque of the oil filter cover plate is 89 INCH POUNDS, dont go over that.
Thanks for the info guys. Im away fromthe house right now for the next week but when i get home i think im going to do the service myself. When do u guys recommend checking the valves?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,298 Posts
dont worry about the valves, a proper maintained machine will be fine, now this is overkill on my end, but i would change the oil and filter every 60 hours, or just the oil every 40, with filter every other time. your choice which way to do it. also get a [email protected] lifetime air filter, keep it cleaned every 20 hours, wash it out, allow to dry and your good; air intake is clean and full running, engine oil is clean and strong=great machine. by the way i have jet ski engines with 1000 hours and never checked valves, but i have done as stated above to. i also stabilize gas when it will sit a month or more. mainly to keep water out. i use 89-91 octane fuel
 

· Registered
Joined
·
492 Posts
Anyone re-torque the head at 10 hours?

It's listed in the manual as something to be checked at 10 hours "Cylinder head bolt torque". Funny this is the service manual states that 1st step is 15ftlb and second step is 180deg.

What would that make the 10 check torque value?

I'm going to to my break in this weekend and service next week. Then it's off on vacation the following week, so I gotta get this done right.
 
1 - 20 of 78 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top