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What exactly do they do to the maverick>>??? I know the dealer said it would cost me a flat rate of 460 bucks. Then how oftern after that should you have your machine serviced? They also said something about a 25 hour service.
 

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In the owners manual in the glove compartment it gives you a complete rundown on what all needs to be done. Besides the motor oil and filter, the transmission, and front and rear diffs also need their fluid changed. It also calls for having the valves adjustment.
 

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I agree with Glamis fan also visual checks and greasing the zerks. Since I purchased my machine from the same dealer, he gave me a discount, $280.
 

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I finally at the point that I need to do the 10 hour break in service. I have 15 hours and 221 miles. I read the owners manual and see that aside from the visual inspections, the transmission, front and rear differentials fluids need changing, motor oil change, grease suspension fittings, valve adjustment and cylinder heads torqued.

Was curious to know what you members did as far as did you do it yourself or have the dealer do it?

I'm pretty skeptical about the dealers doing it. Too easy for them to lie and skip some of these tasks. At the same time, I don't want warranty claim issues if I do it myself and later need to file a claim.

Anybody in Michigan had a bad experience with dealer service? If so, which dealer so I at least know who to stay away from.
 

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buy the recomended fluids, keep the recipt on file and do it yourself. they cannot deny you if you used the correct fluids and did the service yourself.

know your machine. dont rely on the kid at the dealership to keep you machine running for years to come.
 

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I am leaning towards doing it myself just as you say to be more intimate with my machine. I've read or heard of too many dealer service problems. Just seems you can't trust them to do a good honest job. Unless you know the service guy personally, it's a risk.
 

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I worked that into my purchase deal. So I am having the dealership do it for me. They recommended that I wait until around 17-18 hours to bring it in because they said the valves do not need adjustment that early and the fluids aren't really that dirty yet. But on vehicles with 15 or so hours started showing the need to have them adjusted/changed. So it appears that my dealership actually checks the valves and changes all of the fluids. You should ask if they have certified mechanics. My dealership has a huge wall with all of the certifications for all of their mechanics which appear to be pretty up to date. So I feel pretty comfortable going to them for service. Plus, they will do the recall work when I am in there as well.
 

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buy the recomended fluids, keep the recipt on file and do it yourself. they cannot deny you if you used the correct fluids and did the service yourself.

know your machine. dont rely on the kid at the dealership to keep you machine running for years to come.
why not , there good kids and only drink on the weekend , the do great work during the week ! lol :)
 

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Well unless I get to watch them do the service work, I just don't have confidence that it was done or done right.
 

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my dealer did mine to ! I hope they did it right lol
 

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One word of advice... if you do the service yourself... do yourself a favor and get at least a piece of 3/8" hose to put in the new diff and gearbox oil... I did mine last night, outside and it was about 25 degrees out... all I could scrounge up was a piece of 1/4" fuel line to add my gear oil. It sucked! Took me longer to get the oil into the gearbox and diffs than anything else. A little pre planning on my part would have made life a lot easier!
 

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They make a cheap pump that screws on top of the bottle. Pump it in quick and easy. Just a few dollars at autoparts.

If Im on the side of the trail posting ... its because Im waiting for you to catch up.
 

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Doing my service now and everything has gone well so far. I still have to change the engine oil and gear oil. I went ahead and adjusted the valves. Once you have the plastic interior panels removed the valves are a breeze to adjust. I didn't have any confined space issues and it took about an hour to go through all the valves in both heads and button it back up. I used a 14mm allen socket and vice grips to turn the motor for TDC. I adjusted the exhausts to .006" and the intakes to .004". I made slight adjustments to 5 of the 8 valves but all were within spec per the service manual.

The front intakes were .005" & .006"
The rear intakes were .004 & .003

The front exhausts were both .007"
The rear exhausts were both .006" - no adjustments made.
 

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I was also told by the service tech when I purchased the machine to torque the 4 head bolts per cylinder to 43 ft. lbs.
 

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It is listed in the owners manual that came with the machine (which I think was published first) but it is NOT listed in the newer service manual. Unless I missed it.
 

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The tech had said the same thing. He said it wasn't mandatory but since you'll be in there anyways I'm just gonna go ahead and torque them.
 

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In the service manual it calls for 15lb ft + 180deg for installation of the M10 screws. 89lb ft for the M6.

That is for installation. After everything is seated may be a different story. But again, I don't see that in the service manual.
 

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Yeah he had mentioned on the 1000 in the Commander they actually recommend loosening the bolts a hair and doing the torque to yield procedure you listed above. He just said 43 ft. lbs. Was the best way to go to just retorque.
 
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