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X3 Suspension Set Up, "The Suspension Guy"

This is a discussion on X3 Suspension Set Up, "The Suspension Guy" within the The Suspension Guy forums, part of the Can-am Maverick Supporting Vendors category; Oh cool... I’m just about ready for you. It’s been a while since I drove your car. I’ll stop by ......

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Thread: X3 Suspension Set Up, "The Suspension Guy"

  1. #981
    Senior Member R.Snape's Avatar
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    Oh cool... I’m just about ready for you. It’s been a while since I drove your car. I’ll stop by ...
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    Quote Originally Posted by R.Snape View Post
    Oh cool... I’m just about ready for you. It’s been a while since I drove your car. I’ll stop by ...
    Right on! Got your message, your ready for full deal!!

  3. #983
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    Sway bar links??
    Front and or rear?


    If higher rate front springs are used, coupled with a valve job that works with the firmer springs, than most of the time a front swaybar is not needed for recreational use. That means a driver can rip the dunes, run the Dez and rock crawl with plenty of articulation. Plusher for the rough and firmer for aggressive driving.

    Most of the stock set up cars are UNDER SPRUNG in the front. This means the spring rates are on the weak side to do the job. They can’t push the car up fast enough after being compressed so the car tends to dive badly when on the breaks or jumping or going of drop offs. To compensate, the rebound adjustments need to be turned extremely open. But it’s not quite enough. With weak front springs, that give the car more front body roll, the swaybar is a crutch to help out the lagging stock springs.

    The stock rear swaybar links are mounted with rubber bushings. These give a small amount of cushioning to swaybar engagement. Most aftermarket HARD links do not incorporate a rubber or other dampening device. Result is no dampening to the sway bar to car at all. Result is harsher ride in the rough.
    The swaybar shock links dampen the rough engagement of the swaybar and lessen this harshness from being transferred to the car and your seat. With smoother engagement, the car is allowed to set up more nicely in all terrains. The car has much less upset especially during turns with any bumps, rocks, holes or curbs. Car stays more controllable and steady.
    Last edited by Pound Sand; 04-11-2019 at 08:31 PM.
    sand shark and 1HasBeen like this.

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  5. #984
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    Another 4 seater with “my” King set up in Havasu!
    My King shock set up is Very popular these days. 2.5 fronts and 3.0 rears. I stock these already built shocks so the wait is not 4 to 6 weeks. They just need my final valving recipe and custom spring sizes and rates. Bolt on and go Moto!
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  6. #985
    Senior Member Mr. Cob's Avatar
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    Howdy Pound Sand, Ed,

    After reading the WHOLE thread, I have a much better understanding of how and why different setting make such a difference on how our suspension works.

    That said 98% of this thread is directed to dune riders, I have a 2018 XRC turbo, 72 inch wide rig running the stock Liberty 30 inch tall tires. Where I live the NorWet, ( Washington State ) we have very little dune riding and its something I am not really interested in doing. In my home area I run forest service roads which range from decent to horrible and two track trails where its legal. In February and early March of this year I had my first experience in desert riding when I spent that time camped at and riding around the Quartzsite area of Arizona, while there I met and rode with many who are experienced in riding this type of terrain. I was the only XRC in the group all the other X3's were of a different model some 64 and some 72 inches wide, the stock shocks on my XRC looked different then what the stock shocks were on the other rigs, what the difference is darned if I know but they looked different.

    When I first got my rig I set it up using the Fox video and measurements, this did help but the ride was still choppy, when I got into desert riding I noticed that the faster I rode the better the ride for the most part. I had 375 miles on my rig when I went to the desert, at about the 1,000 mile mark I noticed that my ride height had dropped significantly. So I jacked the rig up and set everything back to where my ride height was reestablished at 15 inches LOADED. Doing this required a LOT of spring compression. Which brings me to my question, sorry for the novel you have had to read to get to this point but I wanted to make plain what I have done so far. The question is, now with 1,500 miles on the rig I can see that I will again need to compress the springs more in order to regain ride height, how much can the stock springs be compressed before I'll run into coil bind OR compromise their integrity or my safety?

    I know a full on shock setup needs to be done for maximum efficiency but simply put that is out of reach financially at this time. Thanks for any information you can share and THANKS for the effort you have put into this thread.

    Dave
    Just an old gimped up coot trying to get the most out of this ride called life.

  7. #986
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    I’m in the Dez quite a bit. Sometimes it doesn’t get talked about as much as compared to the dune riders.
    The Dez or dirt trails are dirtier, rougher and more harsh on the car and driver and passengers than the dunes.

    https://www.instagram.com/p/Bvb7B47g...d=jxdrass0un7b
    But plenty of dirt, Dez, trails and rocks get put to the test.

    Your compression settings should all be fill open. In this position is the softest the car can be.
    You can only run the low speed a turn or two firmer at most, to get a somewhat softer ride.
    The standard valving and other internal parts of the stock Fox shocks make the car a generally rougher ride over all.
    These shocks have a TON of room for improvements.

    Most drivers just don’t know how much better the car can be with properly set up suspension.
    Driver often come out to my “TUNE DAYS” just to get a ride in or drive a car to actually fell the difference.

    Yes, the stock springs will keep compressing and shortening. I don’t know how tall your running your car?? But you can go quite a ways befor coil binding
    kevin retread likes this.

  8. #987
    Senior Member AZSteele's Avatar
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    '18 X3 XRC Turbo R + $$$$$$$$

  9. #988
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    I was reading today on an X3 blog where owners were asking about Front end alignment. All sorts of numbers were being thrown out. Toe in, toe out, 1/8 inch, 1/4 inch, 1/2 inch this way or that way. More Bump steer this way, less bump steer that way?
    The Book smart “numbers gurus” love to pin down concrete numbers on an adjustments such as this.

    But in reality, the x3 or any other UTV is exactly that, a utility vehicle used for on and off road use on multiple types of terrain and surfaces. For the “most part”, It’s not your daily driver sedan used on regular streets for your commute to work and or the grocery store. (Lol, I know there are a few owners that run there UTV to work and shopping! I’m jealous). So yes, of course your basic commuter vehicle can have flat rate numbers to set alignment with is standard.

    But No set of numbers is solely correct on this one! So, no set of numbers are wrong.

    How the front is set up or aligned depends on, Suspension set up?, spring rates and shock tune, how and who set it up? Attitude of the car? Tire types and size?
    And even how you have your car loaded? Equipment locations? Winch? Spare tire and it’s location? Grande ice chest? Tools? Munchies, Stripper pole?

    Whatever the combination of the above will dictate different numbers for the front alignment.



    It’s up to the driver to experiment both toe in and out to get the car to handle the way that gives the driver the most driving confidence in overall car handling and control.
    As a note, a car combination change later, may demand an alignment change also to regain some Prefered handling characteristics that were lost or lessened.


    The driver needs to figure out this one on their own for the best results. Don’t get cheated, or locked into just running a random number from the forums that probably works great for some cars? But not all cars.
    A little fun R&D next time out can help get a drivers car set up best for that individuals needs and likes.


    Good luck
    Last edited by Pound Sand; 05-05-2019 at 12:16 PM.
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  10. #989
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    Swaybar shock link comparison.

    The new Kings swaybar shock links are made from a full 2.0 shock body and piston.
    The Walkers Evans are a 1.7 shock body.

    The Kings are a firmer set up and work best for heavier cars, and more aggressive drivers and racers. Work well for fast sand duning also!!

    2 of these are great for slower ( or Fast ) car articulation on the rocks and trials while not being over soft during more aggressive fast open desert driving.

    The Kings were designed to be run as a pair. They are much longer than the stock links

    These will retail for $599. Per Pair (Changes on who you talk to). I can sell them for less than that.

    retail for the Walkers is $360 per pair. Owners can get them for a lower price from myself and other vendors here on the Forums.

    The Walker Evans link is great for the recreational driver up to the more aggressive or racer driver.
    But In comparisons, the kings are bigger, firmer and stay more consistent on the high demand side.

    The Walker Evans set up is great, and should meet the demand of most, (I sell the crap out of these),
    while the Kings set up is still “King” in big boy land.

    Moto
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  11. #990
    Senior Member AZSteele's Avatar
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    Wait a minute Ed, you haven't told me about your stripper poll set up.
    Ha, told you I'm paying attention to your words of wisdom.
    Another item for the list ...

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    '18 X3 XRC Turbo R + $$$$$$$$

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