Secondary clutch/driven pulley stuck in open position
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Secondary clutch/driven pulley stuck in open position

This is a discussion on Secondary clutch/driven pulley stuck in open position within the Member Introduction forums, part of the MaverickForums.net Members category; Hello. I'm new to the forum and to Can am. Purchased a brand new 2018 X3 XDS (4 seater) last spring from dealer in GA. ...

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Thread: Secondary clutch/driven pulley stuck in open position

  1. #1
    Junior Member Eleven's Avatar
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    Secondary clutch/driven pulley stuck in open position

    Hello. I'm new to the forum and to Can am. Purchased a brand new 2018 X3 XDS (4 seater) last spring from dealer in GA. Due to travel for work I have not rode as much as I would like so far. 21 hours and 185 miles. Machine is totally stock and majority of use has been trail riding outside of the Atlanta area (plus slow driving in the neighborhood that I live in). Was out having fun yesterday at the local off road resort when it started to make a whining noise from the drivetrain when getting back on gas. Stopped and pulled the drive belt cover and being a newbie didn't notice anything unusual. Drove it back to the trailer (gently) and the noise continued and even got worse. Sounded like something was broken in the drive train. Today at home, I did some more research and found the secondary clutch/driven pulley was stuck in an almost fully open position. I was able to remove the drive belt without using any tools. After removing the driven pulley I was able to use a rubber mallet to get it to pop loose and close the sheaves together. I noticed that there were scratches on the outside of the "ramp" top hat on all 3 points where it rides down on the rollers and where it meets closest to the outer sheave. The rollers themselves do not seem to "roll" or at least I can't get them to spin by hand. There is a washer on each roller that doesn't slide easily from the inside to the outside of the roller. I assume the normal position is for the washer to be on the outside of the roller from the centrifugal force and float in between the "ramp" top hat and the outer sheave? I re-attached the driven pulley and attempted to use the oem tool to spread it and to reinstall the belt but about halfway through tightening the tool it froze/stuck again. I have not had a chance to build or buy a compressor tool to disassemble the pulley. Anybody hear of a problem like this? I'm surprised how dry all the parts are. No grease, lube or anything on the rollers or ramp on the top hat. Everything looks brand new and very little dust was on it.
    Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Otherwise taking the pulley to the dealer on Tuesday when they open to see if they know what the problem is. Thank you.

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    My guess without seeing it is a broken spring under the helix. Assuming it ran fine for the first 180 miles then broke.

    But that’s just a guess...

    No grease anywhere in the secondary is a good thing. The only thing to grease in the clutch is the bearing on the primary. The secondary rollers should roll...


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    Junior Member UKLeeX3's Avatar
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    Broken rollers, mine did much the same.

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    You dont want any grease in there that could get on the belt , sounds like something broke
    Life doesent get much better than eating taco’s down at scorpian bay ,baja sur
    2018 x3 xrs/ smart lok,rugged radios,baga design squadron pro’s,onyx6,afx alum. Lower doors,brp door handles, Evo c/d + tune, wet sounds elite 10, aim belt temp, + way too much to list need more $$ not close to being done

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    Senior Member ///AIRDAM's Avatar
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    are all 3 rollers intact? or does one of them appear broken?

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    Senior Member ferrett21's Avatar
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    Take pics, I want to see the scratches on the ramps, and rollers. The secondary is pretty easy to take apart with a piece of all-thread. If you have a few bucks to spend, I’d have Adam/Airdam or KWI tune and repair the clutches. At minimum, those guys can get you parts as needed....

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    Senior Member ///AIRDAM's Avatar
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    the helix legs get scarred up from use, thats normal. grit and sand and dust become sand paper and will wear grooves into the helix over time. i know you dont have a ton of miles but you can still see slight wear in short amount of time.

    if there is actual gouging at such low mileage you can almost suspect the rollers locked up, and are not spinning freely causing the helix leg to drag against the roller, this friction alone will cause rapid wear of the aluminum face of the helix.

    locking up like you are reporting sounds much more like a piece of the roller or piece of a belt is stuck down inside the secondary clutch not allowing the two halves to close back together. you should be able to see if one of the rollers is broken, or if you have blown a belt there might be a chunk down inside the secondary that needs to be cleaned out.

    to pull the secondary apart you nee a piece of all thread about 18" long, some large washers and nuts. some people will take a 1.5" PVC pipe cap and drill a hole in the center and use the pipe cap against the helix, with washer an nut on the other end against the shaft. snug the assembly down to hold pressure against the spring, and then remove the 3 bolts in the back that hold the clutch together. loosen up on the all thread rod assembly and the clutch will come apart. you can clean and inspect anything from there easily.

    if the rollers are broken its time to order some parts, or send them in and have them replaced. there are tons of vendors who sell rollers now, even the OEM rollers work great when installed properly.

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    Junior Member Eleven's Avatar
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    Thank you all for the input. I wlll try to get some pics uploaded. The rollers don't move by hand but that could be due to the helix pressure on them? They do not appear broken, but one of them has pitting type marks on it. The ramps of the helix look smooth and good. The scratch/binding marks are on the outside of the heilix ramps where it comes in contact (or is not supposed to) with the ring of the sheave. The belt is intact and did not come apart. Did not see any signs of belt fragment in the housing etc.I ordered a new belt but it has not arrived yet, so can't compare yet. I can see the spring inside the helix but without taking it apart can't tell if it is broken. When I tapped it with the rubber mallet the sheaves did go back to their original position touching each other, so I made the assumption that the spring was intact. Thanks for the insight on building a compressor to take it apart. That certainly is the next step.... Thanks!

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    Senior Member ///AIRDAM's Avatar
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    the outside of the helix should not touch the clutch in any way. if you have aluminum to aluminum contact anywhere, you have a problem.

  11. #10
    Junior Member Eleven's Avatar
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    Today I was able to take the driven clutch apart and it looks to me like the rollers are completely gone (see pic below). I was able to purchase new Can Am rollers from the dealer but now my question is how to get the old roller pins out to install the new ones? Appears that they are pressed in?

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