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Secondary clutch/driven pulley stuck in open position

This is a discussion on Secondary clutch/driven pulley stuck in open position within the Member Introduction forums, part of the MaverickForums.net Members category; This tool and a little bit of precision heat. https://blackmarketutv.com/collectio...n-removal-tool...

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Thread: Secondary clutch/driven pulley stuck in open position

  1. #11
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    This tool and a little bit of precision heat.

    https://blackmarketutv.com/collectio...n-removal-tool


    Made by Enthusiasts for Enthusiasts

  2. #12
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    Or a slide hammer with 4mm adapter, a good way to anchor the clutch without damaging it, a little heat and some luck...


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  3. #13
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    how in the heck did you break all three and leave no trace of any parts? wow, did you ever have to cover off to inspect?

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  5. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Megadesertdiesel View Post
    how in the heck did you break all three and leave no trace of any parts? wow, did you ever have to cover off to inspect?
    Do you think they could have fragmented where they were light enough to be ejected out the clutch exhausted somehow?


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  6. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Megadesertdiesel View Post
    how in the heck did you break all three and leave no trace of any parts? wow, did you ever have to cover off to inspect?
    if all three were broken into pieces you would assume some scarring and pieces somewhere in the clutch or tube or at least notice it.
    GloverXRS likes this.

  7. #16
    Senior Member ///AIRDAM's Avatar
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    centripetal force pulls them out, they are light, and relatively soft, the fins of the secondary will eject them out the rear snorkel. they wont scratch the face of the clutch up, they are a non-marring compound, at most you will see a polish mark where it hit before it was ejected out.

    now i see why his 3 rollers wouldnt roll, those were the hardened pins not the rollers he was looking at.

    the clutch was locking up because the leg of the helix hits the aluminum support inside the fixed sheave below the roller. without the roller, the helix will rotate towards the pins so much so, that the helix leg will contact the aluminum in the fixed sheave, this friction between these two surfaces will lock the clutch up and not allow it to open and close. while your helix is out you might want to take a file and clean up the marring on the helix leg.

    you will need a tool of some sort to pull the pins. slide hammer, pin puller, they are for sale online, none of them are fun and none of them are extremely effective they all take work.

  8. #17
    Junior Member Eleven's Avatar
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    Correct, I didn't see any dirt or debris when I first took the cover off, and not knowing what the actual roller was supposed to look like I thought the metal pins were the rollers....
    Thank you everyone for the help. Hopefully will get this fixed and back on the dirt asap!

  9. #18
    Junior Member Eleven's Avatar
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    You are not kidding about the work to get them out. I borrowed a slide hammer (and torch) and was able to get one pin far enough out to get a new roller in and I snapped the slide hammer in the process. Borrowed another slide hammer and the second pin broke the regular grade 4mm bolts I had gotten, so now need to purchase or fabricate a better slide hammer removal tool. Leads me to my next question, what is the best way to reinstall the pins with new bushings on them . I had to apply a lot of heat to get the first pin to come out but was afraid to immediately put the roller on the pin and reinstall due to the high heat. Can the rollers withstand large amounts of heat? And do you use the slide hammer in reverse to reinstall the pins or is there another way? Can you use a bench press to push the roller pins back in safely?

  10. #19
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    If you pull the pins all the way out ,you could put them in the freezer over night to shrink them ?
    Life doesent get much better than eating taco’s down at scorpian bay ,baja sur
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  11. #20
    Senior Member DuneFreak's Avatar
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    Buy new pins from rocky mountain and put them in the freezer for a while. No slide hammer for install, just tap them in with a brass punch and hammer. If you really feel the need, you can heat up the housing a bit before tapping in the pins from the freezer.

    Heat worked ok when I pulled mine, but after I sprayed them with a lubricating oil they came right out. However, I was using a huge slide hammer at work.

    2018.5 X3 Max XRS // Grove Fabworks, Aftermarket Assassins, Dynojet, CT front end, CA Tech, UMP, HSP, Rugged, Sandcraft, blah blah...

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