This is a discussion on Governor cup wear. And where to find one. within the Maverick X3 forums, part of the Can-Am Maverick Forums category; Originally Posted by GloverXRS Can you update the 17 clutch to add the wear plates? What all is required? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ...
the high HP turbo 2018+ were supposed to have the movable sheave with the stainless wear plates.
the lower HP turbo and non turbo still got the standard movable sheave without wear guides.
the govenor cup sold for the X3 does NOT come with buttons and o-rings or hexagon rollers and pins. You will need to order all the parts, wear buttons, roller, roller axle as its called, and o-rings. If you purchase the govenor cup you only get the aluminum housing you must order all the additional parts and assemble yourself. In the listing it says "gov cup assy" meaning assembly but IT DOES NOT come with anything in it. You will spend upwards of $400 to get everything and piece a new one together. I do have these in stock though.
replacing the 3 o-rings and wear buttons with the o-rings is not a bad idea, otherwise you continue to run the machine till it fails and it will fail. i rebuild clutches for customers all the time, i have figured out what wears, and how long things will last, and at what RPM. running high RPM like 7900-8000+ continuous you will see the o-rings which are the dampners under the buttons get hammered out in 500 miles or less. anybody running 8300+ continuous RPM likely doesnt get a solid 200 miles out of them. drop the RPM down to a mediocre 7400-7600 and the o-rings last a lot longer 1000+ miles. once the o-rings get hammered out the button doesnt have any dampening, so the button starts "wobbling" around in the hole and will oval out the aluminum holes in the spyder or govenor cup. i have seen a 2000 mile reflashed machine with relatively high RPM clutch that had zero service, the holes where the buttons sit, was completely gone, the buttons had worn thru the aluminum and had spit the buttons out completely, once the 3 buttons were gone the loaded side of the primary was only running on the 3 remaining buttons, to which it quickly wore them out, and then the clutch became metal to metal, the aluminum govenor cup had worn into the stainless guides thus ruining the govenor cup, and the movable sheave. this customer sent in his clutch for a clutch kit install due to his previously installed kit not working properly. come to find out he needed nearly $1000 in replacement parts in the primary and secondary from letting both get in such bad shape with no maintenance. you might think these things will last forever but unfortunately they will not.
2014 Maverick XRS DPS
Dragonfire Racing Doors
29" Rocktane Tires
15" MSA M22 Rims
typically we pull them apart, replace thrust washers on each side of the bearing, grease bearing, replace the buttons in the govenor cup and o-rings, flip the hexagon rollers if they look good, replace if they need it, replace the movable sheave with the updated one with stainless guides, clean everything up, clean the faces up and machine true if needed. when i go thru one i polish and clean every moving part.
Big thanks to Kris at KWI for hooking me up with everything I need to get me going again.
2018 X3 XRC
2017 X3 XDS: Sold..
2015 OG XDS Turbo: Sold..
I have a 2018 XDS Turbo R and a XRC Turbo. 172 must not be high horsepower. Lol
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Been following this thread.. very mistreating and sorry to talk about anything again but I’m little confused and want to know what you guys are talking about Bc I have a 2018 XRC turbo and want to make sure I do anything preventive maintenance wise to my machine never had a CVT trans so sorry for being a pest I have 800 miles on it what do you guys recommend I look at to check for these issues we are talking about in this chat I always blow my clutches off after cleaning her after every trip but that’s about it any help would be great Bc if I have to change things I would like to do it now before it’s a big issue