I need help from a Clutch Guru or Gurus
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I need help from a Clutch Guru or Gurus

This is a discussion on I need help from a Clutch Guru or Gurus within the Engine and Drivetrain forums, part of the Can-am Maverick Technical Discussions category; My OEM belt will last about 250 miles. After around 250 miles the belt starts slipping, temperatures go up and will not come down much ...

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Thread: I need help from a Clutch Guru or Gurus

  1. #1
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    I need help from a Clutch Guru or Gurus

    My OEM belt will last about 250 miles.
    After around 250 miles the belt starts slipping, temperatures go up and will not come down much as long as I'm moving.
    Shortly after that, snap.
    The primary clutch faces will be covered with black belt residue, the secondary faces will be clean.
    So, the primary is slipping...correct?
    How do I increase the clamping force on the primary and still maintain normal function?

    Help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

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    Are the inside, motor side clutch faces aligned? You can slip a feeler gauge between belt and primary clutch sheeves. Inner and outer at primary should be equal. It’s a bitch to get feelers in there but once bent correctly its easy to check.

    IF that are not the same you have two options, KWI float mod which lets the secondary float and align itself. Or the right way to machine the inside of your secondary to bring it closer to trans the amount it’s missing aligned. Might take a couple times to get it perfect. Or you can over machine it and shim to perfection.
    g_muder likes this.

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    Senior Member 1HasBeen's Avatar
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    I would think a lazy/sticking/binding secondary is the more likely culprit.

    On Edit: Verify alignment first, as Mega suggested.
    Last edited by 1HasBeen; 05-27-2019 at 05:49 PM.

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    Senior Member skidoochris's Avatar
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    are we suppose to guess what clutch your using?
    have you taken them apart to clean and inspect them?
    17 xds, Boondocker turbo kit, Whalen 240xx tune, 3bar sensors, Powervision with AFR logging, AEM 320 fuel pump, Bosch 1200cc injectors, H&H performance clutching and custom tuning, Pro Armor 4 point harness, UMP filter, Evo v flow, fan override, razorback belt gauge, STU 1300x15 Padla comp cut, 31x15 Tribute comp cut on DWT wheels, Tensor 30x10 x14 on MSA wheels or ITP mud lite 30x12x14 on stock wheels and street legal

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    Quote Originally Posted by skidoochris View Post
    are we suppose to guess what clutch your using?
    have you taken them apart to clean and inspect them?
    Haha, expect a lengthy high brow response explaining he has more technical big words than you. I’m gonna go get my popcorn for this one.
    sand shark, AZSteele and BLR like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Megadesertdiesel View Post
    Haha, expect a lengthy high brow response explaining he has more technical big words than you. I’m gonna go get my popcorn for this one.
    No no, Mega, it is a fair question; I should not assume that a young hotshot like Chris payed any heat to the postings of an oldtimer, so I should have stated that I have an 18 X3 RC with OEM clutches.
    I'm looking forward to the exposure of his knowledge.
    Last edited by PropDr; 05-27-2019 at 08:59 PM.
    AZSteele and BLR like this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Megadesertdiesel View Post
    Are the inside, motor side clutch faces aligned? You can slip a feeler gauge between belt and primary clutch sheeves. Inner and outer at primary should be equal. It’s a bitch to get feelers in there but once bent correctly its easy to check.

    IF that are not the same you have two options, KWI float mod which lets the secondary float and align itself. Or the right way to machine the inside of your secondary to bring it closer to trans the amount it’s missing aligned. Might take a couple times to get it perfect. Or you can over machine it and shim to perfection.
    Not having any experience with this type of transmission, we are looking for a base alignment with the Primary fully open and the Secondary fully closed? Is there an acceptable tolerance? Are we talking thousands or fractions? How close do we need to have the parallelism of the clutch shafts?

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    Senior Member ///AIRDAM's Avatar
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    put your machine in neutral or park, rev it up a few times to get the clutches to zero out then cut the machine off. taking feeler gauges or sheets of paper or business cards, try to work them between the belt and the face of the primary at 9:00 and see what the distance is. measure the distance from the face of the belt to the face of the clutch on the inside and outside of the primary.

    what you are looking for, is the face of the belt to sit between .003"-.010" off the face of the inner half of the primary. so a sheet of paper to a business card thickness at most. if the belt is .040" between the inner, and .010" to the outside, then the secondary is too far out on the trans shaft and needs to move inward (most common layout when they are not right) so the secondary can be machined to move the secondary further inward on the shaft. misalignment typically makes it hard to shift, makes it want to roll on its own at idle because the belt is dragging the face of the primary, but it doesnt typically blow or melt belts like you are asking.

    what does melt belts to the face of the clutch like you have is normally when you have (1) light weights and are running a ton of RPM (2) have melted the rollers in the spyder "govenor cup" and the weights are all chewed up and not able to adequately produce the clamping force needed to properly grab the belt (3) stuck or sticking secondary not pulling the belt back tight after it upshifts so the primary cant accurately pull the belt tight which causes it to slip.

    proper calibrations are key to helping belts live, a 100% stock machine, stock tires, stock ecu flash, and a non aggressive driver can make a belt live 3000+ miles. but put a super aggressive driver in the exact same machine and you will see him blow belts in 200 miles. you add bigger tires, more power with a reflash, more load on the machine like sand dunes, and drive the piss out of it like its a $400,000 tatum or buckshot sand car and expect it to live, and that little ole rubber band is gonna let you know whats up. aggressive driving, even with a stock machine, will require clutch changes. maybe not something huge, it may only require swapping the clutch springs, but with heavy machines, lots of power, and an aggressive driving style, the stock clutch springs will not adequately balance the clutches out, and an imbalance in upshift and backshift will cause the clutch to overheat and overload the belt and you will blow belts.

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    Thanks, I know now where to start.
    I'm running 32th, a 93 octain tune and like, at times, use the power it has.
    My macine is fairly new with around 500 miles on it; about even split on trails and in sand with paddles.
    I will be checking the engine to transmission alignment as per the manual and take the measurements on the belt.
    Further I will be taking the clutches off for inspection.
    Suggestions for modifications would be greatly appreciated.

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    Senior Member HPnMORE4J's Avatar
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    Are you seeing the clutch face black after blowing the belt or before? What kind of temp is it not dropping from?

    I do know if you have a heavy foot with paddles in the Oregon Dunes belts don't seem to last more than 250-400 miles at most.

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