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Tie rod replace/adjust.

This is a discussion on Tie rod replace/adjust. within the Can-am Maverick Accessories forums, part of the Can-am Maverick Forum category; Originally Posted by mrtosh That would be true if you have both ends of the tie rod loose. Per the instructions its stating to leave ...

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Thread: Tie rod replace/adjust.

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtosh View Post
    That would be true if you have both ends of the tie rod loose. Per the instructions its stating to leave the inboard jam nut alone and simply spring the tie rod effectively loosening the outer. Are you threading the new rod on a certain amount of turns and then doing it with both jam nuts loose?
    It depends on which tie rods you have. So for the stock tie rods and the aftermarket ones where you are only replacing the rod, the rod is threaded the same on both ends. so if you loosen both locking nuts and rotate the rod, it is only going to move the rod in on one end and out on the other end. This good if you want to center up the rod so you have an equal amount of threads on each end but it doesn't do anything as far as toe in/out adjustment. To do this, simply lock the inner lock nut to the tie rod and loosen the outer lock nut and spin the rod in or out to adjust toe in/out as needed.
    mrtosh likes this.
    2013 Maverick XRS
    - CT Race Worx Front end gusset Set
    - CT Race Worx Racing tie rods w/bump-steer spacers
    - CT Race Worx Rear radius rods
    - CT Race Worx Inner Fenders
    - CT Race Worx Dual rate shock setup
    - TurnKey UTV harness bar
    - TurnKey UTV Baja Series Front Bumper
    - TurnKey UTV Nerf bars
    - TurnKey UTV Race Air Intake
    - TurnKey UTV Sport Doors
    - TurnKey UTV Sport Roof
    - TurnKey UTV Billet Shifter
    - Pro Armor 3" 5-point harnesses
    - Pro Armor Fire Extinguisher/Mount
    - Arcticbomb Switchless sport low mod
    - QSC Predator primary
    - STM Gen II secondary
    - SunPro gauges: oil pressure/water temp/voltage
    - Alba Racing CVT temp gauge
    - Doebeck Gen4 AFR+ Fuel Controller
    - Full Interior Thermal barrier
    - DEI exhaust wrap
    - Can Am rear view mirror
    - Can Am 2" receiver hitch
    - SuperATV EZSteer power steering
    - Full Muzzy Exhaust System
    - Totron 6" Fog light bar
    - Totron 6" Backup LED Light
    - Totron 42" LED Light Bar

  2. #32
    Senior Member mrtosh's Avatar
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    That's what I was looking for lol. So in essence it doesn't really matter how far it's threaded on the rack side(as long as there's adequate depth of threads)?

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrtosh View Post
    That's what I was looking for lol. So in essence it doesn't really matter how far it's threaded on the rack side(as long as there's adequate depth of threads)?
    In theory yes.....but if you have a lot of threads sticking out on the outer end you might want to loosen both lock nuts and recenter the tie rod on the rod ends.....
    2013 Maverick XRS
    - CT Race Worx Front end gusset Set
    - CT Race Worx Racing tie rods w/bump-steer spacers
    - CT Race Worx Rear radius rods
    - CT Race Worx Inner Fenders
    - CT Race Worx Dual rate shock setup
    - TurnKey UTV harness bar
    - TurnKey UTV Baja Series Front Bumper
    - TurnKey UTV Nerf bars
    - TurnKey UTV Race Air Intake
    - TurnKey UTV Sport Doors
    - TurnKey UTV Sport Roof
    - TurnKey UTV Billet Shifter
    - Pro Armor 3" 5-point harnesses
    - Pro Armor Fire Extinguisher/Mount
    - Arcticbomb Switchless sport low mod
    - QSC Predator primary
    - STM Gen II secondary
    - SunPro gauges: oil pressure/water temp/voltage
    - Alba Racing CVT temp gauge
    - Doebeck Gen4 AFR+ Fuel Controller
    - Full Interior Thermal barrier
    - DEI exhaust wrap
    - Can Am rear view mirror
    - Can Am 2" receiver hitch
    - SuperATV EZSteer power steering
    - Full Muzzy Exhaust System
    - Totron 6" Fog light bar
    - Totron 6" Backup LED Light
    - Totron 42" LED Light Bar

  4. #34
    Senior Member mrtosh's Avatar
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    Works for me. Thanks again Heavy!

  5. #35
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    you bet...
    2013 Maverick XRS
    - CT Race Worx Front end gusset Set
    - CT Race Worx Racing tie rods w/bump-steer spacers
    - CT Race Worx Rear radius rods
    - CT Race Worx Inner Fenders
    - CT Race Worx Dual rate shock setup
    - TurnKey UTV harness bar
    - TurnKey UTV Baja Series Front Bumper
    - TurnKey UTV Nerf bars
    - TurnKey UTV Race Air Intake
    - TurnKey UTV Sport Doors
    - TurnKey UTV Sport Roof
    - TurnKey UTV Billet Shifter
    - Pro Armor 3" 5-point harnesses
    - Pro Armor Fire Extinguisher/Mount
    - Arcticbomb Switchless sport low mod
    - QSC Predator primary
    - STM Gen II secondary
    - SunPro gauges: oil pressure/water temp/voltage
    - Alba Racing CVT temp gauge
    - Doebeck Gen4 AFR+ Fuel Controller
    - Full Interior Thermal barrier
    - DEI exhaust wrap
    - Can Am rear view mirror
    - Can Am 2" receiver hitch
    - SuperATV EZSteer power steering
    - Full Muzzy Exhaust System
    - Totron 6" Fog light bar
    - Totron 6" Backup LED Light
    - Totron 42" LED Light Bar

  6. #36
    Senior Member twocents's Avatar
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    Off topic a little who has the best tie rods?

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

  7. #37
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    I do
    heavysledz likes this.
    Alex Reed
    CT Race Worx
    Office: 704.684.5618
    Alex@carolinatruggies.com
    Builder and supplier of UTV parts for weekend riders to fully built race machines
    Now offering new Mavericks and turn key Maverick builds!

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by AReed View Post
    I do
    I have to agree X2
    2013 Maverick XRS
    - CT Race Worx Front end gusset Set
    - CT Race Worx Racing tie rods w/bump-steer spacers
    - CT Race Worx Rear radius rods
    - CT Race Worx Inner Fenders
    - CT Race Worx Dual rate shock setup
    - TurnKey UTV harness bar
    - TurnKey UTV Baja Series Front Bumper
    - TurnKey UTV Nerf bars
    - TurnKey UTV Race Air Intake
    - TurnKey UTV Sport Doors
    - TurnKey UTV Sport Roof
    - TurnKey UTV Billet Shifter
    - Pro Armor 3" 5-point harnesses
    - Pro Armor Fire Extinguisher/Mount
    - Arcticbomb Switchless sport low mod
    - QSC Predator primary
    - STM Gen II secondary
    - SunPro gauges: oil pressure/water temp/voltage
    - Alba Racing CVT temp gauge
    - Doebeck Gen4 AFR+ Fuel Controller
    - Full Interior Thermal barrier
    - DEI exhaust wrap
    - Can Am rear view mirror
    - Can Am 2" receiver hitch
    - SuperATV EZSteer power steering
    - Full Muzzy Exhaust System
    - Totron 6" Fog light bar
    - Totron 6" Backup LED Light
    - Totron 42" LED Light Bar

  9. #39
    Senior Member mrtosh's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AReed View Post
    I do
    Areed what's the biggest advantage of running the HD setup versus just your replacement rod? I know the Heim will be stronger. I'm quite torn myself on whether or not to go with your full kit or just the rods.

  10. #40
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    My replacement tie rods are just want they same. They're a 1" 6061 solid replacement of the weak factory pieces. A bolt on item that simple to replace.
    The race tie rods are a full replacement. You unthread it off the factory inner and thread on the new one. It will require drilling out the spindle to 1/2" from 12mm. It includes a 1.25" solid 6061 tie rod and a 5/8 FK rod end. The biggest thing with this is they will come with high misalignment spacers that take the bump steer out of the steering. These as of this week will get sent out with a tab to weld to spindle to put the joint in double shear just like I've been running on my race rig. This is a bad picture but you can see the setup
    Alex Reed
    CT Race Worx
    Office: 704.684.5618
    Alex@carolinatruggies.com
    Builder and supplier of UTV parts for weekend riders to fully built race machines
    Now offering new Mavericks and turn key Maverick builds!

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