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Drivers seat mods

This is a discussion on Drivers seat mods within the Suspension forums, part of the Can-am Maverick Technical Discussions category; So I know a lot of folks have reported the drivers seat will not stay latched or that it has a lot of slop in ...

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Thread: Drivers seat mods

  1. #1
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    Drivers seat mods

    So I know a lot of folks have reported the drivers seat will not stay latched or that it has a lot of slop in the frame. So I am in the process of making some changes to my drivers seat. The first thing I will cover is the seat back....

    1. the seat back cusion of my seat gets loose and starts to rattle after about 30 minutes of riding. The only thing securing it to the frame are 4 screws. The issue I am finding is that the screws are screwed into soft plastic in the seat back frame so you can only tighten them so much or you will strip them out. The second problem is the hole they go thru on the frame is about 2.5X the diameter of the screw. So you are basically relying on the tension of the screw into the seat back plastic to keep everything in place.....well, it doesn't work. So I bolted the seat back to the frame with some 3/16" bolts, and most importantly, I only drilled 3/16" holes in the seat frame to keep it from being able to slide around due to slop in the hole like the original screws. I didn't have any Nyloc nuts handy so I just used standard nuts and red locktite. For good measure, I used locktite on the original mounting screws as well when reassembling.

    The only catch is you will need to mount the back rest frame onto the seat frame without the foam or cover installed. There is enough clearance to were you can get it back on with it mounted but it does take a few extra minutes. to do....


    Here are some pics of the original screws. You can see where they are rubbing on the seat frame when they loosen and how little thread is actually in the seat holding it all in place.

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    Here is the view from the inside of the seat back. The little black plastic circle is all that the holds the seat to the frame when screwed together.

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    Here are pics of the 3/16" bolts from inside the seatback and some after it has been mounted to the seat frame...

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    I have also modified the latch as well as replaced the seat adjuster with 1" square tubing.....I will post details and pictures tonight.
    Last edited by heavysledz; 08-22-2013 at 12:54 PM.

  2. #2
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    Here are pics of the base modification I did by removing the seat adjuster and replaced it with 1" square tube….


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    2013 Maverick XRS
    - CT Race Worx Front end gusset Set
    - CT Race Worx Racing tie rods w/bump-steer spacers
    - CT Race Worx Rear radius rods
    - CT Race Worx Inner Fenders
    - CT Race Worx Dual rate shock setup
    - TurnKey harness bar
    - TurnKey Baja Series Front Bumper
    - TurnKey Nerf bars
    - TurnKey Race Air Intake
    - TurnKey Sport Doors
    - TurnKey Sport Roof
    - TurnKey Billet Shifter
    - Pro Armor 3" 5-point harnesses
    - Pro Armor Fire Extinguisher/Mount
    - Arcticbomb Switchless sport low mod
    - QSC Predator primary
    - STM Gen II secondary
    - SunPro gauges: oil pressure/water temp/voltage
    - Alba Racing CVT temp gauge
    - Doebeck Gen4 AFR+ Fuel Controller
    - Full Interior Thermal barrier
    - DEI exhaust wrap
    - BRP rear view mirror
    - BRP 2" receiver hitch
    - BRP Cargo Net
    - BRP fender flares
    - SuperATV EZSteer power steering
    - Full Muzzy Exhaust System
    - Totron 6" Fog light bar
    - Totron 6" Backup LED Light
    - Totron 42" LED Light Bar
    - EVO Stage IV reflash

  3. #3
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    Well the mods I did helped tighten up the seat to the frame but the seat frame still rattles around in the chassis and it is driving me crazy…..so I had thought about cutting off the pins in the rear that the rubber feet slide over and welding on some threaded studs. But I am not a welder and I am not known for having much patience so i decided to try and see if I could thread the pins themselves. Sure enough, they were solid steel and were able to threaded with my tap and die set. I used a 10mm X 1.5 die and some cutting oil and went to town. The threads are much cleaner than the picture portrays and I only cut in enough threads to snug everything down. When I torque down the nut, it actually bottoms out on the unthreaded portion of the pin. In order to have enough threads to secure a nut, I cut about 3/8" off of the bottom of the rubber feet. I then stacked a large washer and then a thicker smaller washer on top of the rubber feet and then installed the nut and torqued it down until it bottomed out on the unthreaded portion of the pin. I plan on replacing the washers with a higher grade metal and using a NYLOC nut so it will not vibrate off but this is what I had in my inventory tonight so I used what I had to mock it up….it feels extremely secure now and only has minimal flex due to the fact that I still have the rubber feet in the equation…..if this doesn't cure the problem, I will go to plan "B" which is to remove the rubber feet all together and weld some high grade washers to the rear feet of the seat frame and bolt it directly to the chassis….


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    2013 Maverick XRS
    - CT Race Worx Front end gusset Set
    - CT Race Worx Racing tie rods w/bump-steer spacers
    - CT Race Worx Rear radius rods
    - CT Race Worx Inner Fenders
    - CT Race Worx Dual rate shock setup
    - TurnKey harness bar
    - TurnKey Baja Series Front Bumper
    - TurnKey Nerf bars
    - TurnKey Race Air Intake
    - TurnKey Sport Doors
    - TurnKey Sport Roof
    - TurnKey Billet Shifter
    - Pro Armor 3" 5-point harnesses
    - Pro Armor Fire Extinguisher/Mount
    - Arcticbomb Switchless sport low mod
    - QSC Predator primary
    - STM Gen II secondary
    - SunPro gauges: oil pressure/water temp/voltage
    - Alba Racing CVT temp gauge
    - Doebeck Gen4 AFR+ Fuel Controller
    - Full Interior Thermal barrier
    - DEI exhaust wrap
    - BRP rear view mirror
    - BRP 2" receiver hitch
    - BRP Cargo Net
    - BRP fender flares
    - SuperATV EZSteer power steering
    - Full Muzzy Exhaust System
    - Totron 6" Fog light bar
    - Totron 6" Backup LED Light
    - Totron 42" LED Light Bar
    - EVO Stage IV reflash

  4. #4
    Senior Member MaxAZ's Avatar
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    I think you may be onto something here. Sure won't hurt anything to thread them. Just takes longer to get to the storage under the seat.
    2013 XRS. UTV Inc roof and harness bar. UTV Inc UHMW skids.
    Suspension by Shock Therapy with internal shock re-valve and dual rate coil springs.
    CT Racing replacement tie rods, front and rear gusset kits with hitch.
    Racer Tech full Delrin bushing/pivot kit.
    Crow 5 point harness.
    Alba Racing CVT belt temperature kit.
    BajaCross 28X10X14s on STI HD rims.
    BRP super extended fender flares.
    Rugged Radio RRP550 intercomm and Kenwood TM281A radio.

  5. #5
    Senior Member desertdog's Avatar
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    Looks secure now
    2013 Maverick Xrs,Magnum Off-Road custom radius cage with alum top, custom opening doors, front & rear bumpers, QSC primary/STM secondary,Full CT Race Worx Shock upgrade, Super ATV EZ Steer Power Steering unit, Ceramic coated Muzzy exhaust w/digi-tuner, PRP Can-Am seats, PRP 5 point harness',Totron 40" LED bar, sport low mode, UTV inc front gusset kit,fan override kit & billet rear view mirror,HID headlight bulbs,Holz Racing front tie rods, Turnkey front & rear panels, Turnkey Intake, Rugged Radio w/357 intercom & Ipod, 12" Black Hiper sidewinder2 rims w/yellow beadlock rings and STU Blaster rear paddles & front razors. Pro-Line vinyl wrapped side panels.

  6. #6
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    I don't really store anything under the seat other than a tow rope which I can pull out with the seat in place since I removed the seat adjuster.

    I am still skeptical that it is a permanent fix or if the rubber feet will still allow too much movement. One thing is for sure, it is a hell of a lot more secure than the crappy stock setup! It is pretty easy to get a socket wrench with an extension in there to remove the nuts after removing the latch mechanism.
    2013 Maverick XRS
    - CT Race Worx Front end gusset Set
    - CT Race Worx Racing tie rods w/bump-steer spacers
    - CT Race Worx Rear radius rods
    - CT Race Worx Inner Fenders
    - CT Race Worx Dual rate shock setup
    - TurnKey harness bar
    - TurnKey Baja Series Front Bumper
    - TurnKey Nerf bars
    - TurnKey Race Air Intake
    - TurnKey Sport Doors
    - TurnKey Sport Roof
    - TurnKey Billet Shifter
    - Pro Armor 3" 5-point harnesses
    - Pro Armor Fire Extinguisher/Mount
    - Arcticbomb Switchless sport low mod
    - QSC Predator primary
    - STM Gen II secondary
    - SunPro gauges: oil pressure/water temp/voltage
    - Alba Racing CVT temp gauge
    - Doebeck Gen4 AFR+ Fuel Controller
    - Full Interior Thermal barrier
    - DEI exhaust wrap
    - BRP rear view mirror
    - BRP 2" receiver hitch
    - BRP Cargo Net
    - BRP fender flares
    - SuperATV EZSteer power steering
    - Full Muzzy Exhaust System
    - Totron 6" Fog light bar
    - Totron 6" Backup LED Light
    - Totron 42" LED Light Bar
    - EVO Stage IV reflash

  7. #7
    Senior Member SoCalMav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heavysledz View Post
    I used a 10mm X 1.5 die and some cutting oil and went to town. The threads are much cleaner than the picture portrays and I only cut in enough threads to snug everything down. When I torque down the nut, it actually bottoms out on the unthreaded portion of the pin. In order to have enough threads to secure a nut, I cut about 3/8" off of the bottom of the rubber feet. I then stacked a large washer and then a thicker smaller washer on top of the rubber feet and then installed the nut and torqued it down until it bottomed out on the unthreaded portion of the pin. I plan on replacing the washers with a higher grade metal and using a NYLOC nut so it will not vibrate off but this is what I had in my inventory tonight so I used what I had to mock it up….it feels extremely secure now and only has minimal flex due to the fact that I still have the rubber feet in the equation…..if this doesn't cure the problem, I will go to plan "B" which is to remove the rubber feet all together and weld some high grade washers to the rear feet of the seat frame and bolt it directly to the chassis….
    I want to attempt this mod. I picked up a tap/die set today. Is there a particular reason you used the 10mm? It looks like 12mm might work also... How did you get the die to spin on the stud? The T-handle in my kit won't fit in there.
    Last edited by SoCalMav; 10-06-2013 at 09:57 PM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by SoCalMav View Post
    I want to attempt this mod. I picked up a tap/die set today. Is there a particular reason you used the 10mm? It looks like 12mm might work also... How did you get the die to spin on the stud? The T-handle in my kit won't fit in there.
    Honestly, I didn't put much thought into it because I really didn't expect it to work and had all ready planned on cutting them off and welding on some threaded studs. Give a 12mm a shot and see if that works and let me know. I still need to do the passenger seat so might do that if you say it works. I used a socket wrench to do mine because I didn't think I would be able to get enough movement with the T-handle. It may not be as hard if you can get away with using a 12mm instead of the 10mm though…..
    2013 Maverick XRS
    - CT Race Worx Front end gusset Set
    - CT Race Worx Racing tie rods w/bump-steer spacers
    - CT Race Worx Rear radius rods
    - CT Race Worx Inner Fenders
    - CT Race Worx Dual rate shock setup
    - TurnKey harness bar
    - TurnKey Baja Series Front Bumper
    - TurnKey Nerf bars
    - TurnKey Race Air Intake
    - TurnKey Sport Doors
    - TurnKey Sport Roof
    - TurnKey Billet Shifter
    - Pro Armor 3" 5-point harnesses
    - Pro Armor Fire Extinguisher/Mount
    - Arcticbomb Switchless sport low mod
    - QSC Predator primary
    - STM Gen II secondary
    - SunPro gauges: oil pressure/water temp/voltage
    - Alba Racing CVT temp gauge
    - Doebeck Gen4 AFR+ Fuel Controller
    - Full Interior Thermal barrier
    - DEI exhaust wrap
    - BRP rear view mirror
    - BRP 2" receiver hitch
    - BRP Cargo Net
    - BRP fender flares
    - SuperATV EZSteer power steering
    - Full Muzzy Exhaust System
    - Totron 6" Fog light bar
    - Totron 6" Backup LED Light
    - Totron 42" LED Light Bar
    - EVO Stage IV reflash

  9. #9
    Senior Member SoCalMav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heavysledz View Post
    Honestly, I didn't put much thought into it because I really didn't expect it to work and had all ready planned on cutting them off and welding on some threaded studs. Give a 12mm a shot and see if that works and let me know. I still need to do the passenger seat so might do that if you say it works. I used a socket wrench to do mine because I didn't think I would be able to get enough movement with the T-handle. It may not be as hard if you can get away with using a 12mm instead of the 10mm though…..
    I plan on working on it tomorrow, I'll let ya know how turns out.

  10. #10
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    Thanks man….don't forget to use some cutting oil of some sort…..it will make it much easier and you will end up with cleaner threads...
    2013 Maverick XRS
    - CT Race Worx Front end gusset Set
    - CT Race Worx Racing tie rods w/bump-steer spacers
    - CT Race Worx Rear radius rods
    - CT Race Worx Inner Fenders
    - CT Race Worx Dual rate shock setup
    - TurnKey harness bar
    - TurnKey Baja Series Front Bumper
    - TurnKey Nerf bars
    - TurnKey Race Air Intake
    - TurnKey Sport Doors
    - TurnKey Sport Roof
    - TurnKey Billet Shifter
    - Pro Armor 3" 5-point harnesses
    - Pro Armor Fire Extinguisher/Mount
    - Arcticbomb Switchless sport low mod
    - QSC Predator primary
    - STM Gen II secondary
    - SunPro gauges: oil pressure/water temp/voltage
    - Alba Racing CVT temp gauge
    - Doebeck Gen4 AFR+ Fuel Controller
    - Full Interior Thermal barrier
    - DEI exhaust wrap
    - BRP rear view mirror
    - BRP 2" receiver hitch
    - BRP Cargo Net
    - BRP fender flares
    - SuperATV EZSteer power steering
    - Full Muzzy Exhaust System
    - Totron 6" Fog light bar
    - Totron 6" Backup LED Light
    - Totron 42" LED Light Bar
    - EVO Stage IV reflash

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